the dusty window and the hope |
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There's an old saying in Aceh....
pat na ujeun nyang han pirang,
pat na prang nyang han reuda
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which means...
there's no rain that doesn't stop,
there's no war that doesn't end
**
there's no wave that doesn't drift back to the sea
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the mosque and its guards in arm.
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I always thought that Sultan Iskandar Muda Airport as the most beautiful airport in the world. Well... not sure why... especially with the one storey almost dingy concrete block and just the smallness of it... it's by no mean a fun airport with all the gadgets to keep you busy while waiting. Yet, the window, even when it's dusty... they'll keep you entertained for the most of time.
For some... not so long ago, being in Aceh meant you have the license to be dangerous and cool; to go with the expectation of fearful experiences. So, when you go home, you can tell stories about it; and feel powerful. Just because you've been in a place when bullets shouting is the music of the day.
Yet, there's nothing needed to brag about... It's just a place... with its people... and the history... and the life. But one thing you can be sure off, blue sky is mostly granted to you. So, enjoy and love it.
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BANDA ACEH: Population: +/- 270.000 (was)
Then it changed. People from every surface of the earth landed here by the end of 2004. The cry for help reaches out... yet, no one really sure what to do.
The coffee stalls on the street near Baiturrahman mosque, the cool bookstores in Pasar Atjeh, and just the life of it... gone flat. Yet, who ever thought that merely a year later, even when things are still flat... a Caswell's tailored coffee shop erected to the once washed out Peunayong. This, off course to cater the coffee drinking habits for anything close to starbucks blend (or, maybe the people of Caswell's can claimed they had better coffee...).
Yet, Banda Aceh is almost the best place for Coffee in any place in the world... cheap-cheap! Just go and compare... a cup of latte with a cup of 'kopi saring' in ulee kareeng. So... welcome to the city with a history of blood and tears, and yet... hope off course.
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| Favourite spots: |
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from the top... green hills.
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- Sultan Iskandar Muda airport : seriously, just look outside the window and the sight of Seulawah mountains afar.
- The coffee time, just in any coffee shop.
- Baiturrahman mosque, and the view from the minaret.
- The beach. Even with the memory of the big waves, the beach and its sunset... it's worth living for.
- Pasar Atjeh, and the little shops selling books and souvenir
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| What's really great: |
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the wave and the flat land
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- no one knows what's waiting at the end of the road. the place used to bring that sense of feeling.
- any afternoon in the city... when things started to end, and the pace started to slow down. it's time for good coffee, tasty food, and nice breeze.
- despite the history of conflict... and now the big wave... I met some of the most beloved persons here in this city.
- sunset... sunset... and the blue sky.
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| Sights: |
- the landscape of the city... just go to the top of Baiturrahman mosque tower. The Aceh river, the city, and the sea at the end of the horizon/
- Lhok Nga beach....
- The mountains from the airport.
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| Accommodations: |
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the sky, grey before dark.
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- Hotel Sultan:
Almost the only big hotel left yet, the rennovation took quite a better shape... not that it was luxurious in the first place though.
- Cakradonya Hotel:
Means the Bell Hotel. The room not so big, yet... I can sleep well.
- Kuala Tripa Hotel:
Well... it was the best hotel in town. Now... it is history. The first three levels of the hotel was torn down by the quake. Yet, seriously... this was the best hotel in town.
- Seulawah Hotel:
It's located near the Blang Padang field. Small hotel, not so many room, just adequate facilities, yet a nice feeling to be at and a clear sky if need a transmission signal.
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| Nightlife: |
hhhhmmmmmmmmmmmhhhhh....
well, this place is stricly under Syariah, the ruling of Islamic rules applied... at least. So, there's none such obvious entertainment as 'club' perceived as necessary and decent.
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| Hangouts: |
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who needs clubs, when there's mosque :) a beutiful one...
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hhhhmmmmmmmhhhhh.....
Again... when Alcohol is forbidden. What else the need for a pub.
Yet, since there's so many people from all over the world coming for the reconstruction of Aceh... there are people even applying permit to sell wine to foreigners.
Well again... to cater the people that came and want to perpetuate their way of living... just about at any corner of the world... well, maybe mine also :)
But again, PUBS -- NONE!
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| Restaurants: |
- Restaurants and coffee stall in Ulee Kareeng. They have one of the best coffee, great snacks, and tasty 'nasi lemak'.
- Mie Razali. Noodle stall with aceh spices... hmmmh.
- The food in Rek (well, at least that's how I remember the name)... it's the circle near Hotel Sultan. Open air, good food... it can even be great when you're really hungry.
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... just remember... this is an account mixed between my memories of the city before the big wave... with a mixture of what i know still left. There are places lost, yet there are new corners built and to be found.
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Published on Wednesday December 28th, 2005 by delfster
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