The one has seen Esfahan,... |
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has seen the half of the world (persian saying) - esfahan, nesf jahan
The ranking of Esfahan in my personal “top ten” city list, is still untouched, on number one.
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Welcome to thousand-and-one night
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Even after years I still remember every single day I have spend in Iran and of course there is my strong resolution to go back one day.
First thing: how to get a visa: Some travel agents arranging it, as long you book your air ticket with them. Recently it became really expensive. Flights from Frankfurt are about 400 -500 EUR plus visa and paperwork additional 250 EUR. If you are travelling with Iranair, they mostly include a domestic flight on your choice.
May german travellers can contact me for assistance in visa problems! It can take up to one month for the application!
I have been there in september, october, november of 1997.
As the only foreigner on the flight to Teheran, I met only backpackers on the transit route from Turkey to Pakistan mostly restricted to a week on their transit permission.
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| Favourite spots: |
My tour: Teheran to Ghom, Esfahan to Shiraz (Persepolis) –
the plan, travelling to Bandar-e-Abbas and Kish Island I canceled because of the heat –
so, I returned to Esfahan and went via Yazd and Kerman to the "unfortunally"* famous fortress of Bam.
Mashed, Gonbat-e-Kavus along the coast of the caspian sea to Ardabil, Tabriz back to Teheran.
Before I left back home, guess! – I went back to Esfahan again!
*... because of the earthquake in 2003
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| What's really great: |
The hospitality of the people! -
"shoma cheyli tashakkor mikonam"
Esfahan and the small village in the north-west, Sareiyn, and lots more.
Traveling by bus is probably the best way to get arround and see the country. Roads and busses are in a good condition the tickets cost only a few cents and sometimes the even showing englisch movies on board.
The first time I came to Esfahan, I did not reach the center... I met Rahim on the bus, and he invited me to spend the night at the university campus, eat and discuss worlds politics :-) with him and his student friends. As I went into the city center the next morning I notice lots of trees and flowers along the streets, but nothing about the breath taking monuments behind. Finding a Hotel to stay, became a bit difficult – after my arrival 3 days ago I have been first on my own!
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| Sights: |
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Si-o-Se Pol - the 33 arches Bridge
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Saryein: a villages in the north-west. Get a local bus at the Ardabil Terminal. Next to the mountain of Kuh-e-Sabalan (4811 meters) has the village lots of hot spring swimmingpools.
I will never forget the breakfast their: Tea, fresh warm bread, melting cream and the local honey in a comb, hmmm ... delicous
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| Accommodations: |
Of course I found one suiting my needs:
Amir Kabir Hotel at Charbagh St. is more a institution than accomodation – you meet travellers from everywhere:
some walking arround the world, cycling to india or returning with an antique Enfield motorbike. Japanese or australian mates on their way to europe and the europeans to the other end of the world.
During siesta time, I went for my first discovering walk around. Usually busy cities, without any parks or places to rest, I found my way to the Emam square.
As they say: “the worlds largest inner city square” – a former polo field of the emperors. Now, stuffed with goods and souvenirs, manufactures and warehouses since the wellvisited seventies...
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| Nightlife: |
Along the river you find both sides promenades overshadowed from big trees.
Under the arches of the old bridges you find tradional teahouses, inviting to relax and smoking a waterpipe. The most famous bridge is build around 1600 and called “Si-o-Se Pol” because of the 33 arches.
Lots of museums and culture but no clubs (at least not to the public).
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| Hangouts: |
okay, okay... lets count the teahouses to that chapter!
There is one very special, amazing place near the Emam square, the road leaving behind the Nomad Carpet Shop (very friendly and helpful staff for any needs) – as I remember, in Kheiabun-e-Hatef, into the right side courtyard, about 100 meter from the square. They serve tea and waterpipes, and light meals mainly to the bazaar people spending the lunchbreak there. Its like a vault walk, walls and ceiling covered all over with antique memories as pictures, porcelain ware, swords and firearms.
Once a electricity cut-off happened, for about 15 minutes sitting in the dark with gas lamps only: old men, with long beards, turbans smoking in the gloom, bubbling sounds of waterpipes like a thousand years ago, sitting next to Alladdin and his magic lamp...
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| Restaurants: |
While staying in the city I discover lots of hidden sights wich you not find by following a books advice, of course I “worked” as a guide too.
Restaurants are usually fancy with glaring neon lights serving Chelo-kebab only – rice with fried meat. The good foods you only find in midday hours in the bazaar area where the workers eat.
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| Other recommendations: |
should be continued in separate reports...
well, to believe into the saying above:
I HAVE SEEN THE HALF OF THE WORLD !!
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Published on Wednesday June 1th, 2005 by esfahani
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