Gisenyi one was Rwanda's cash cow of the tourism industry. It is a lovely, hilly little town at the shores of the Lake Kivu, boasting grand beaches and flamboyant villas amongst palm alleys. Gisenyi has two faces, at least. One of them, the upper town, is more rustic and basic, where the majority of the population live, and where the 'centre' is. The other, the pretty lower town, at the Kivu's shore and beaches, is where the architecture dazzles and good (expensive) hotels are based. Views of the lake, particularly at sunset, and the string of active volcanoes at the Zaire side are breathtakingly spectacular. There are few good value accommodation options and even fewer places for scoff. Once there were a few good bars around, but many of them no longer operate. In a few years, when peace establishes itself firmly in the region (particularly in Zaire) and the tourism industry returns, Gisenyi should liven up again. [edit text][editors]