Beijing - June/July 2005. Five months since my last trip, having previously lived in Beijing for 8 years, it was mostly visiting friends, enjoying a nice vacation and trying to relearn all the Chinese I've forgotten in my absense!
I was just up in Beijing for the last month and it's amazing to see how fast the city changes. While it'd only been 5 months since I'd left, the streets are now littered with two-toned 1.6 taxis which are supposedly added to fill the deficit from taking away all the 1.2 in preparation for the Olympics. Speaking of preparing for the Olympics I think there's still alot of work that needs to be done. Passing by the Shunyi river which I heard (don't know if it's true) where some of the Olympic rowing activities will take place, the river still stinks and I know i wouldn't want to row there. One thing I found myself whining about the most was the god-awful weather. Having lived in beijing for 8 years, I know that summers get hot and humid. Temperatures in the upper 30s with a few days even reaching 40C (~104F?) it was almost unbearable, confounded by it's extreme humidity it was horrible. Pollution in Beijing seems to have gotten worse as well as for most of my 4 weeks there it seemed as though a thick blanket of smog had covered the city and refused to leave. In the 4 weeks i was there it probably rained 4 times, had about 6 or 7 days of non-smog, and the rest were muggy and difficult. I suppose you get used to it after a while which is scary. I was lucky because I remembered to bring mosquito repellent. One of the most annoying things I fear during summer in hot places is mosquito bites.
Favourite spots:
Shopping - Silk Alley Indoor Market (open til 9) located where the old outdoor market was off the Third Ring and the Sunny Side Market (open til 11) by the Lido. Sunny Side is a great place to get good bargains because it hasn't been exploited by tourists yet and the vendors are ready to give good prices if you ask. Bars - Kai by the Sanlitun Hostel, Black Sun 2 in Sanlitun Nan Jie, Lush in Wudaokou, and Black Sun in ChaoYang Park Clubs/Lounges - Propaganda in Wudaokou Went up to Hou Hai a few times, gentrification has served this area well and it's pretty busy at night with all the bars and the restaurants.
What's really great:
Volunteered up at Beijing United Hospital by the Lido area for 2 weeks, got to get inside experience at how a hospital functions. Also visited the Sky Blue healing home for chinese orphans with moderate to severe physical handicaps. Orphans from all over china go to the Sky Blue Healing home and await and recover from various surgeries all funded by private donations. A great place that was full of life and adorable and brave little kiddies.
Accommodations:
The Holiday Inn Lido runs a good bargain if you can find a deal online. I believe it's only a 4 star hotel but the facilities and service are great, better than most 5 star hotels I believe. Good area as well.
Nightlife:
Vics by Workers Stadium (Thursday is Ladies night), Propaganda in Wudaokou which was mostly full of foreign students studying Chinese for the summer. One night at Propaganda they did an all you can drink night for 20quai (US$2.40) which was a great experience albeit a little out of the way.
Hangouts:
My speciality! Lush in Wudaokou, about a minute's walk from Propaganda. Serves great food for unbelievable deals. They have this drink called the 'Utah Sucker Punch' for the more seasoned drinker. Kai around the corner from Poachers has shots for 5quai (US$0.60) before midnight on Weeknights. Black Sun 2 in the old Sanlitun Nanjie across from Phil's Bar has a quieter atmosphere if you want to sit back with friends or play a game of darts or Foosball, the owner is friendly. Yun Meng 2 off of Third Ring is a nice place to drink and smoke some hash. The place somewhat resembles a crack den but the couches are comfortable.
Restaurants:
When in China eat as the Chinese do! I like the Red Lantern across from Lido, I highly recommend the Dry Sauteed String Beans (Gan Bian Bian Dou). Xi He Ja Yuan on Ya Bao Lu close to Ritan Park and the old Russian Market is good too but slightlier pricier.
Other recommendations:
Hou Hai is becoming an nice area to hang around. Good for lunch or stay later for bar hopping. Don't go there by car. Roads are very narrow and crowded and it's much easier to get around by pedicab or by walking. The area would be perfect if it was closed off to cars. Don't be swindled by the local merchants selling you maps. Depending when's the last time it rained, there might be mosquitos so bring repellent!