If there is a heaven, it probably looks a little like Cape Town, South Africa's celebrated ''Little Rio''. Perched on the southern tip of Africa, fine wine, natural beauty and a mountain with its own tablecloth are just some of its highlights.
I used to live in Cape Town. But nearly five years in cold, grey, damp England have given me a new perspective on my old home. Suddenly, I realised I had been living in the middle of paradise but hadn't even realised it at the time. That is a problem many people only realise once it is too late: the grass is always greener on the other side - until you get there. Anyway, I decided to return to Cape Town last month and once again drink in the many sights I had once taken for granted. This may surprise you, but two weeks - a whole fortnight - was simply not enough to see everything on my list. So I didn't return to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned all those years ago, and I didn't venture into the Stellenbosch and Franschoek winelands. I had also wanted to travel further up the west coast, as far as the West Coast National Park with its memorable Langebaan lagoon. And have ''high tea'' at the prestigious Mount Nelson Hotel in the footholds of Table Mountain. But I will have to wait for my next visit. All that may lead you to wonder what on Earth I did for 14 days. Here goes: First and foremost was the Great White Shark diving in Gansbaai, about a two-hour drive from Cape Town. This was arranged by tour operators which specialise in conducting cage diving expeditions (see more below). I shopped at the V&A Waterfront, a glittering harbourside shopping complex; went to the top of Table Mountain on a clear blue day; walked around beautiful Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens; drove into the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve (where the spine of the Cape peninsula slopes precipitously into the ocean); had breakfast at Kalk Bay, lunch among the endangered African penguins at Boulders Beach in Simonstown, and dinner on the Cape Riviera. Cape Town is truly stunning. I haven't been to Rio de Janeiro, or Sydney, or San Francisco, or Vancouver. Maybe they're even more beautiful than South Africa's ''Mother City''. But I wouldn't put money on it.
Favourite spots:
The best spot in Cape Town is undoubtedly the top of Table Mountain on a clear day. There is nothing quite like the sensation of looking down at the ''Mother City'' spread out in front of you. It must rate as one of the world's most exhilirating experiences. Another unbeatable is sitting on Boulders Beach among the endangered African penguins. The birds have come to regards humans as permanent fixtures on their beach, and although there are concerns the presence of tourists disrupts their breeding habits, there seems to be no evidence to bear this out. Chapman's Peak is another jewel in Cape Town's crown. As it snakes its way ever upwards over Hout Bay harbour, you can only marvel at the astounding beauty of it all. My personal favourite spot is St James, near Muizenberg on False Bay. The tiny hamlet is immediately recognisable from the coastal road owing to a row of brightly painted beach huts which reflect in the tidal pool, making the scene twice as nice.
What's really great:
Great White shark diving operators have been accused of encouraging Great Whites to associate humans with food (bait is used to lure the sharks to the boats). The pressure on them is increased after every shark attack, but so far dive operators have been allowed to continue their work unhindered. I never intended to get in the cage, although I have no objections to cage diving - I personally believe it doesn't affect shark behaviour. I wanted to take photos, and had visions of a shark rearing out the water, baring its teeth, giving me a perfect photo opportunity. So I got myself into the best position, directly above the baitline. An hour later, a shark fin broke the surface in the distance. As quickly as it appeared, it was gone. Then, minutes later, a large, dark shadow appeared near the boat. The shark had arrived! But it only stayed a short time and never broke the surface. However, at least I could say I finally got to see the great Carcharadon Carcharias - in the flesh.
Sights:
Chapman's Peak, Boulders Beach, Table Mountain, Cape of Good Hope, Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia, Cape Riviera, Bloubergstrand, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, Rhodes Memorial, Signal Hill
Accommodations:
B&Bs or self-catering apartments anywhere in the City Bowl.
Other recommendations:
Llandudno beach - a hidden gem; Kalk Bay on the False Bay coast and Kommetjie, with its Slangkop lighthose
Restaurants:
The V&A Waterfront has some excellent restaurants, as does Tamboerskloof, a suburb just above the city centre.
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