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Lake Trasimeno is Italy’s fourth largest lake, and was the site of one of the largest massacres of the Roman army at the hands of Hannibal. The valley is now a quiet, peaceful place, tucked away on the border between Tuscany and Umbria. The area is ideal for day trips to both regions, and served as our “home away from home” while we were in Italy.
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By the pool at the “villa” we rented, relaxing and gazing out over the lake with a drink in one hand, and Frances Mayes ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ in the other. Watching fireworks down in Passignano del Lago from our porch at midnight. Smelling the lavender, watching the bees buzz and tiny little lizards warm themselves on the stones. Seeing stars like the red spine of Scorpio and the glow of the Milky Way clearly after the sun went down over the mountains. Eating breakfast and dinner at the picnic table out front. Picking almonds off the ground, and taking pictures of the olives down the slope, and limes and grapes growing on the patio.
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Take a trip to Isola Maggiore out on the lake. The ladies there are known for their lace making, and there is a small museum devoted to the craft on the island. Also worth seeing is the small church perched on top on the island. While its frescoes are not famous, nor exceptionally beautiful, they are good examples in the style of Giotto, and are probably as close as you’ll ever be able to get to a fresco in Italy. However, the coolest thing about the island is the old Franciscan church, which has fallen into disrepair, and looks like something straight out of an Indiana Jones movie. A sign by the door reads that visitors are responsible for their own safety. A little old lady, who only speaks Italian, will lead you around inside (or scare you off, if your Italian is not up to par) for a small fee (we didn’t find out how much). Inside, cobwebs hang from the old organ pipes, and the stained glass windows are broken. Truly the most evocative and authentic “ruin” I saw in Italia. Certainly someone will come along and restore it eventually, as Franciscan ties to the island are strong – the saint is said to have sojourned here.
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Aside from the island, Passignano del Lago is a delightful town, as is Cortona, just a stones throw away. If you have a car and can explore the area, day trips to Siena, Perugia, Assisi and Gubbio are all good options.
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We rented a “villa” through The Parker Company, and used it as our base to see the region. The property was high up an unpaved road, but once you reached the top, it was wonderful. The owners (and their sweet little dogs) lived in a larger house behind our cottage, and rented the bottom floor to guests as well. The pool, a level down, was a godsend as Italy was suffering its hottest summer in ages while we were there. The view from the terrace and from the pool were spectacular, overlooking olive groves and the lake below. Napoleon’s summer residence was at the end of a poplar-lined road to the left and a few levels down. And beyond that – the lake, with its three islands.
http://www.parkervillas.com/
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We bought food from the local Coop, and took it back up the mountain with us. We were fed well, thanks to my father the chef. The fresh fruit – melons, nectarines and plums – were delicious, as was the prosciutto, the briny olives, and the sweet Italian cookies and candies.
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Published on Sunday September 14th, 2003
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Tue, Sep 28 2004 - 01:12 AM
 by saleha
| hmmm...nice report...the way you express the beautiful scenes is just wonderful...particularly the "favourite spots" segment...you've done it (Y)...it allows one to imagine the kind of natural beauty that lies ou there...thanks a lot for sharing...Take great care of urself n keep sharing the good stuff... |
Sat, Sep 20 2003 - 06:35 AM
 by moehre
| We ordered our new Alfa Romeo today. With your report you have given us an idea where we could take him. |
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