Having last visited Ubud in 1999 and leaving with fond memories we were really looking forward to visiting this mountain town again.
But how we were so disappointed.
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Satay seller in the market
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Ubud has changed so much in the last five years. It has become a sprawling, congested and very touristy Balinese village definately aiming at the top end tourist dollar. Every second shop belonged to an artist exhibiting for the most part very average if not awful works of art at very inflated prices.
The local government or community needs to reinvest some of the tourist dollars into creating sidewalks that you are able to walk on. They are in such disrepair that you need to watch your step the whole time lest you fall straight into the bowels of the earth never to be seen again.
Plus, I have never seen so many poor, mangy, starving dogs in all my life.
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| Favourite spots: |
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Emerald paddy field near Ubud
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My favourite spots would be outside of Ubud driving through the countryside. When you do discover one of those elusive rice paddyfields you stop and hold your breath and take in the pure emerald green. Unfortunately, due to the ever increasing development these are becoming a rarity.
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| What's really great: |
The other highlight for me would have to be the Goa Gajah or Elephant cave, curiously named as there were never any elephants on Bali. The cave dates back to the 15th century and no-one can explain who or why it was it was built. Needless to say the Balinese have adopted the temple for their own worship although it was only rediscovered in about 1935.
Located a short drive from Ubud entry is around 5000 rupiah including the compulsory use of a sarong if you are wearing shorts or a skirt. The site although fairly small is actually much more interesting that what I expected. You pass by the nearly empty of water ceremonial bathing pools to reach the entrance of the cave which is guarded by what appears to be a mythical creature rather than an elephant. You enter through the gaping mouth passing by what appear to be a huge set of fingers on the left hand side. Inside are more statues of mythical creatures.
Make sure you also go down to the river, it is lush and really peaceful.
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| Sights: |
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Mt Kintamani where we visited by default
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There is also an Elephant Adventure Park somewhere nearby.Just a tip don't do what we did & set off thinking you will find it. Ring ahead for a pickup or very good directions. It is not signposted at all.
We headed off and ended up at Mt Kintanami nearly on the other side of the island. Retracing our steps we still didn't find it.
It's on the list for our next visit.
If you haven't been here before you also need to visit the Monkey Forest Sanctuary. It is touristy and the monkeys are really overfed but it is still worthwhile.
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| Accommodations: |
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Our room top right at the Ubud Inn
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Looking for a central location & parking we opted for the Ubud Inn quite by accident.This was large two story hotel in a tranquil setting surrounded by beautiful gardens. Picture the birds chirping, cows mooing & you get the picture. We were offered a range of rooms & opted for a comfortable room with a 4 poster bed, airconditioning & the largest bathroom I have ever seen offering not one but two showers. One over the bath & the other without a hob, luckily the floor drained fairly well. With a full breakfast it cost US$40 per night. There was also a swimming pool for a dip.
The only downfall & it was a bit of a shock was when we went to bed that night there were two single sheets or what should have been a double sheet literally torn in half. And not even resewn. I have never seen anything like it in my life!
The hotel also has a spa & I must admit I was straight down there for a Balinese full body massage. It was bliss for US$12 for 1 hour.
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| Restaurants: |
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Looking towards the restaurant - sorry a couple of wines I am a bit blurry
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I have two recommendations, one to not miss and the other one to definately miss unless you feel like eating 2 hours later.
The first is Tutmak Warung Kopi. This was here last trip & it has moved across the road but is still going strong. It is open at the front with two levels. The food & service is fantastic. My choice was Beef Lasagne & was delicious for 38000 ($4.50US). My partner opted for the Mexican wrap with chicken, he said it was really spicey & really good. They serve Chilean & French wines by the glass for 20000. Another great idea is you pay 500R (5c) each for unlimited water which they fill from large recyclable containers & thus cut down on plastic waste - scourge of Bali.
The place not to go is the restaurant in front of the Puri Garden 1 Bungalows. It looks beautiful but they just have no idea. Our order was plate of steamed rice(tummy bug, doctors orders) & nachos. Over 1.5 hours later we threatened to walk out. Then they have the gall to charge a 15% service charge.
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| Other recommendations: |
Be warned if you arrive by car & do not have accommodation but stop to consider your next step with your guidebook opened you will be inundated with young guys on motorbikes eager to show you their choice for which they then receive a commission. I don't have a problem with this but I found the rooms they were selling were either too far out of town & traditional in style ie concrete with small windows with shutters making the rooms dark & gloomy. We opted out from their help, they accepted & we made our own way.
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Published on Sunday October 10th, 2004
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Publish on Facebook
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Mon, Oct 27 2008 - 07:29 AM
 by tokyomike
Excellent report! I'm planning to go to Bali in March, and my office mate here in Japan was raving about Ubud. But I think my expectations have been appropriately conditioned thanks to your report. I'm now thinking -- Pre book a nice place with a mountain view, drive up, beware of shite art dealers, eat at Tutmak Warung Kopi, and check it off my "been there, done that, bought the T-shirt" Tommy Tourist checklist. One night will be enough for that, I reckon.
Thanks for the heads up. |
Sat, Oct 29 2005 - 08:33 PM
by toribio
Sun, Oct 10 2004 - 07:24 AM
by ravinderkumarsi
hii kerrie,
excellent report adn nicely written.i am planning to visit bali in near future.
ravi |
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