We started our sightseeing in Bangkok from the Royal Palace. You can also see many temples in it's premises, the most important one is the temple of Emerald Buddha. Admission fee has been increased since 2007 edition of LP guidebook and is now a hefty 350 baht. We also visited Wat Pho, a temple housing the largest reclining Buddha statue in the whole Thailand. Admission is 50 baht.
In the afternoon we visited a tailor to have suit. I also ordered extra pants and four shirts. Tailors can be very cheap in Bangkok but it also means lower quality, so it's better to go to a place recommended by a friend or a long-established workshop.
We also attended an evening performance of classical Thai Ramayana show that was held in the Royal Theatre. I can recommend it to anyone who wants to see how Thai dance looks like. With Royal Palace ticket you can get a discount for this performance ticket and buy it for 200 baht only.
And one more tip when in BKK: most ATMs charge 150 baht for cash withdrawals. Ayutthaya Bank doesn't charge this fee - look for yellow machines.
Aug 28, 2009 12:00 AMOn the go for the whole day
We left Siem Reap in the morning by an old rattler bus to reach the border at Poipet after ca. 5 hours, although it's only 155 kms and the road is in excellent condition. We were stopping twice and the bus could go at maximum 60 km/h. After crossing the border we changed the bus for a big one (with A/C). We arrived in BKK at 7 p.m. We found a decent and clean, though smallish, room at Four Sons Place near Kao San Rd for 600 baht (twin, A/C, hot shower).
Aug 27, 2009 12:00 AMAerial view of Angkor Wat
Today we visited the rest of the important temples. The most impressive one was this time Ta Prohm aka Tomb Raider temple. There are many trees whose roots encompass the walls of the temple. We wanted to fly a helium baloon in the morning to catch the aerial view of Angkor Wat, but the balloon wasn't operating at that time due to poor weather conditions. Our driver then called the balloon company again in early afternoon and it turned out they operated at that time. The ride was very short - just 8 minutes in the air (US $15 per person) but the view was nice.
In the evening we did some shopping in the market in Siem Reap. Among others I bought 5 silk ties! They're very cheap here, but you have to haggle hard.
Aug 26, 2009 12:00 AMSunrise over Angkor Wat
We had to get up at 4:30 a.m. to see the spectacular sunrise over this magnificent temple. It was worth! Pictures after my return in the beginning of September. Later we visited the temple itself. We also visited other temples today including the far-away wats like Banteay Srei an Banteai Samre. On the way between these two temples we visited a very interesting museum of land-mines. It's worth a visit to learn more about the danger of land-mines in today's world.
One of the most striking temples was Ta Som with tree roots encompassing one of the entrances. Tomorrow we will continue visiting temples with Vantha. He proved to be not only a driver but also a guide who can give us some information about the history of the temples. Hiring him was a good choice.
Aug 25, 2009 12:00 AMFirst look at Angkor Wat complex
We arrived in Siem Reap at 1 p.m. after 6-hour ride on a bus operated by Phnom Penh Sorya (US $5). There were many tuk-tuk drivers waiting for passengers and we went with one of them to the town. We're staying here at Green Town Guesthouse. Just US $6 per twin room, fan only, cold water shower. There's also a decent restaurant in the guesthouse with reasonably priced food.
After lunch we discussed with Vantha (the tuk-tuk driver) what we want to see in Angkor Wat complex. For two and a half days he wanted US $40 only (petrol and driver's meals included). I didn't want to haggle as this means only ca. US $10 per day for him (after subtracting costs).
The admission fee for the complex is high - US $40 for a three-day pass. Today in the afternoon we went to see Bayon temple and also sunset at Phnom Bakhain Temple. We were also passing by Angkor Wat and it's really magnificent from distance. We'll explore it tomorrow.
Aug 24, 2009 12:00 AMSecond day in Phnom Penh
Today we started from the National Museum. It's full of sculptures from differend epches of Khmer civilisation. For me not very interesting, but the building itself is nice. Admission US $3. Then we visitied two important temples: Wat Ounalom, the headquarters of Buddhism in Cambodia and Wat Phnom. The second one is located on a hill and there are many beggars sitting on the steps leading to the Wat. Consider supporting them as there is almost no charity in poor, developing countries.
In the afternoon we went to the Royal Palace and also visited Silver Pagoda there. Admission fee has risen since the time last LP guidebook of Cambodia was published and is now US $6 instead of 3.
For three days we've been patronizing an Indian & Nepalese restaurant Mount Everest located on Sihanouk Blvd. The food there is delicious (try mango lassi - joghurt and fresh fruit shake) and management as well as staff v. friendly.
Aug 23, 2009 12:00 AMCambodian Auschwitz
Today we visited the sites commemorating the genocide commited by Khmer Rouge against Cambodian people. First, we went to the infamous Tuol Sleng or S-21 prison where almost 20 thousand people were killed or tortured to death. Only seven surivived. The pictures of inmates are terrifying. All look so scared, their sight is full of fear. All were killed - men, women, children. One of the most poignant pictures is of mother holding a small baby, for sure both were later killed.
Tortures were unimaginable. After visiting S-21 now when I see any Cambodian 40 or older I know he went through this hell.
We also visited the Killing Fields on the outskirts of the capital. We hired a tuk-tuk to get there (US $7 returned, haggled down from US $15). There is a stupa full of human skulls, again very strong and tough experience. There are also many pits around - these are former mass graves from which bodies were exhumated.
Admission to both S-21 and killing fields is US $2.
PS. Thanks to all those who signed my guestbook!
Aug 22, 2009 12:00 AM12 hours on a bus
We took a morning bus to Phnom Penh. It departs from Ban Lung at 6:30 a.m. and arrived in PP almost 12 hours later. The ticket was 34k riel. We're staying here in a nice midrange place - Golden Tour Eiffel Guesthouse. A suite is just US $15 (haggled down from US $18). It's centrally located between two important sights - the Tuol Sleng museum and Royal Palace (both within walking distance).
Aug 21, 2009 12:00 AMCemetaries of the Tompuon people
Today we again hired the same guys to show us around the province. This time the ride was longer.
First, we went for elephant trekking. I didn't enjoy it. It was a very touristy experience. The elephant was actually taken for breakfast.
Then we went by motorbikes to Voen Sai, 35 kms from Ban Lung on dusty dirt road. It was a good choice to buy masks before, not the inhale this brown-reddish dust. The road was very bumpy too. After one and a half hours on the bike I was all covered with red dust. Then we took a boat to Kanchon (US $15 for charter), a village inhabited by Tompoun people. They have a very interesting cemetary there and it was worth the effort to go there. The locals will charge you 4000 riels for visiting the cemetery.
On the way back we went to a Chinese minority village. Talat lost his camera there, we couldn't find it. Many pictures were lost, unfortunately.
We returned to Ban Lung after it got dark. It wasn't very safe to ride on this dirt road and I had a minor accided - just abrased my knee.
Aug 20, 2009 12:00 AMExploring Ratanakiri province
This is a real outback of Cambodia. Khmer Rouge guerrillas were hiding here after repression from the Cambodian king in 1960s and '70s. The province has much changed since that time. There's almost no jungle now - just cashew and gumtree plantations.
In the morning we rented motorbikes with drivers - US $10 per bike per day (fuel included). One of the guys - Makara - speaks decent English and I can recommend him as a guide. We went to see a couple of waterfalls. I had a great power shower under one of them - Chaa Ong. We also visited one minority village and I had a swim in Boeng Yeak Lom crater lake.
There's internet in the town, and it's now as cheap as 4000 riel per hour. It's quite fast so you can also use Skype here.
