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When in Rome

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Rome travelogue picture
Rome is one of the most spectacular cities I've visited. Historic, romantic, beautiful, confronting and electric all at the same time. The Italian appetite for life is insatiable and the highlights are many.

Italians are traditional, proud and vigorously social. It’s in the markets, piazzas, bars and trattorias that you’ll discover the real Rome. You must “do as the Romans do.” You’ll have more fun and save money.

How? Read on...


Favourite spots:
Rome travelogue picture
Wow, this is tough. Call me crazy, but let's try a Top 5:

1. Piazza Navona anytime, but especially at night. The romance and gandeur of the place will seduce you.
2. The Vatican Museums. Just go, you'll see what I mean. And allow a full day.
3. The Borghese Gardens. There's great views over Rome and sections of the Old Roman Wall, but this is Rome's green belt and a wonderful place to observe the locals - and maybe meet a few.
4. Campo dei Fiori. Fantastic local market in the centre of Old Rome. Enjoy breakfast, stock up for the day and off you go.
5. Trastevere. The definitive working class district. REAL trattorias and REAL pensiones, some great little churches and the place to meet real Romans.

What's really great:
Rome travelogue picture
Let's try the TOP 5 approach again, it's a real challenge:

1. The maze of cobblestone lanes of Old Rome - some seemingly unchanged for centuries.
2. The sheer magnitide of the history, coexisting with Armani shops and buzzing vespers.
3. The traditional ways of life - from morning cappucinos to evening passegiatas.
4. The markets and family-owned shops - an oasis in a world of chain stores and shopping malls.
5. The food and plentiful, cheap, quality wine.




Accommodations:
Rome travelogue picture
The guide books will tell you many of the cheapest digs in town are around the train station and that the historic centre is off-limits to budget travellers.

Well, it's only partly true; if you can stretch the extra few euros (and it's only a few), believe me, the historic centre is the place to stay. There are still a few places that still fit into the budget category. And the Hotel Piccolo is definitely one of the best.

It's gone a little up-market since the rooms were renovated but this atmospheric little pensione (boasting the name little hotel) is one of Rome's best budget buys in the Old Centre.
The cobblestone lanes look like something out of the Etruscan era but they are too narrow for vehicles, so your bus or taxi will have to leave you at the closest street. This is a bonus - the surroundings are oh-so-authentic and just around the corner is the city's gastronomic nerve centre, the Campo dei Fiori.


Restaurants:
Rome travelogue picture
Pizzeria Bafetto.

This place is a local icon.

It's smack-bang in the middle of Old Rome, competing for attention with 2000-year old antiquities and the hovering tourist masses, yet still retaining a defiant autheticity.

Pizzeria Bafetto has been a favourite of locals and travellers alike for years and welcomes a lively parade of passing faithful by the truck-full. It's best to arrive early, make a reservation, or face a long queue. Once inside you won't be disappointed.

Its share-style tables cram into a small one-room trattoria furnished direct from Variety Italian Style. You will be guaranteed to meet either locals or like-minded travellers over an authentic meal of simple pasta, pizza and salads served fresh and enthusiastically. The wine comes by the glass or carafe - pay for what you drink.



Published on Thursday August 22th, 2002 by undedd


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