Kyoto was the highlight of my three weeks spent traveling through Japan. A three hour trip by Shinkansen (Bullet Train) from the hustle, bustle and endless concrete of Tokyo, Kyoto moves at a slower pace and gives one a better sense of Japanese art, architecture and culture. Kyoto is compact enough that a short taxi ride takes you from the thriving city center to lushly wooded hills and scenic walking trails. Kyoto is known for its Gion District, where young apprentice maiko are schooled in the arts of the geisha. Kyoto offers a wealth of Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines and classical Japanese gardens. A lot of my touring of Kyoto was on foot, which allowed me to explore the quaint neighborhoods and backroads that most tourist would by-pass, and discover nice surprises like small shrines and gardens not found in any tour book.
Favourite spots:
In the Higashiyama (East Mountain) District, I did a nice walk along Gojo-Dori from the Kamo River East to Kiyomizu Temple, which has a high wooden veranda from which to view the city, and follow the East foothills North to Chion-In Temple and Heian Shrine, and then down through the Gion District along Shijo-Dori and then along the scenic Shirakawa Creek which parallels the Kamo River. I was lucky in that the Gion Matsuri festival (late July) was being celebrated, with a parade of large elaborate floats, dancers and musicians.
What's really great:
Through an ad posted on the board at the Kyoto Tourist Information Center, I met an elementary school teach (Kikuko)and her class of Japanese kids (ages 5 through about 10) who were studying English at a special English Party; they wanted the kids to be able to practice their skills with native English speakers. It was cute because this one girl of about 5 years old was staring at me with apprehension for the longest time as I sat on the ground and tried to break the ice with her. She finally got up the nerve to reach through my open collar and tug at my chest hair, which she had never seen before. She was shocked to find out that it was real, which prompted a lot of laughter from all the kids and a lot more curious tugs! I then officiated over a team event of pass the yen with chop sticks while the teacher shouts "Ichi-Ni! (clap-clap) Ichi-Ni!" It made for a fun afternoon.
Sights:
Nijo Castle, Sanjusangen-Do (a long hall with 1003 Buddha images), Kyoto Tower, Toji Temple (I believe it's the tallest five-level pagoda in Japan), and the Handicrafts Center in Gion on Shijo-Dori.
Accommodations:
I stayed at the Ryokan Ichume, which was not stellar but was comfortable and had character (Kikuko told me the neighborhood used to be a Yakuza area, and that my ryokan used to be a house of prostitution (How's that for character?!) The owner was very nice, and the price was only 2000 Yen a night; there was no breakfast, but always plenty of hot green tea. It's located South of Gojo-Dori on the small street that runs parallel to the Kamo River.
Restaurants:
The best (and cheapest) way to go is to stick with the small family-run restaurants with only about six or so tables and avoid the hotel restaurants and really fancy places.
Hi there,
I had a chuckle reading your report. It's always the normal everday "un-touristy" happenings that make a place more memorable.
Japan is definately on my travel list.
Cheers,
Kerrie
Thanx for your great reports on Japan. I am planing to visit this great country for so long. Your recommendations on the accoumodations sound really good, since I believe Japan is really expenisive and it is difficult to find cheep places to stay.
Have fun travelling!
Andy
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