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Welcome to my travel log! You will find here a lot more than in the travel reports, stripped from political correctness. Enjoy! 
May 24, 2008 02:00 PM Yerevan at night
After having relaxed at the Santa Fe City Cafe, I crossed the street and walked to the other side of the Opera House, to sit down at the spread-out Magnolia Cafe. It had at least four or five parts. One of them had lovely little posh restaurant feel with waiters wearing white gloves, comfortable armchairs and sofas. The other was 'clearly' a dessert place with the personnel delivering ice-cream and sundaes, yet another was a lounge with a few TV screens, one had a billiard pool, and yet another had simple but tasteful chairs and tables and looked like a beer garden, but the bar offered all sorts of drinks. I am not sure if menus were different at each of the parts but I guess there was only one kitchen there, so it should not be difficult to twist a waiter's arm to agree on a restaurant dish at any (but the billiard) part of the venue.
Anyway, I sat down at the comfortable posh part and had dinner, which was average in taste and excellent in service. The massive party at the Opera House Square converted to an open-air disco attracted a few thousands of students. Some came with parents. The bash played loud disco music and at 10 p.m. a five minute fireworks display took off literally from the facade of the Opera. It was hillarious to see later on that a set of spotlights was laid on the building to search for potential damage :). Then, the spotlights were converted into a coloured disco lights. But the party was finished at about 11pm. It was probably due to noise regulations in the capital.
I went down to the elegant Republic Square, which put a very nice dancing fountains show. The large fountain of the square 'listened' to the classical music and the waterjets danced for about 20 minutes. Well, when I arrived they show had already started and I am not sure how long it had been going on before my arrival. The square was packed. It was a great show, complementing the skillfully lit facades of the buildings of the government and the Marriott Hotel.
But, it was the night of the nowadays rather lousy Eurovision Song Contest and I had earlier spotted that the French Terrace Cafe was putting the show on the large display. It was just round the corner from the dancing fountain, so it all fell right in the place for me. So far. Before the contest kicked off at midnight local time, the cafe played pop music from the 80s, which was rather delightful. I sat alone at the table, and the waiter asked me if I would allow two Armenians sit with me. They did but they never spoke to me, they did not introduce themselves but smoked cigis all the time. When they left, two other guys joined me and they were made from a compltely different clay. They introduced themselves (Edgar and Tigran), were friendly and talkative, and they even picked up my tab! That was totally unexpected but obviously brilliant. I asked them to show me the nightlife in Yerevan.
We toured the city for an hour or so, but since it was well passed 3 a.m. the venues were either closed, closing or just too sleazy. So, we bought a few beers in a 24h shop near the Opera and sat down on a sittle island on the city pond. We chatted until the dawn converted into a day. I was back at my hotel when people would normally get ready for their day.
I made an appointment with Tigran, who took me in his weathered Lada (Zhiguli) to Echmiadzin, the town with a grand cathedral and a few other very old and lovely churches. It was a great day. Weather set into a thundery storm, but before the rain the heavy clouds were hanging high enough for the horizon still be showing the mountains - the Araraks on the Turkish side and the highest peaks in Armenia in the opposite side of the horizon. It was Sunday, so the churches were busy, mainly with christenings.
Later, I Tigran and his little brother took me to their family house, where I met their parents. It was a superb experience. We had dinner and I saw their little garden, where the Dad grew all sorts of fruit and nuts. I cannot remember how many different types there were, but for the first time I saw the pistachio bush.
Then, it was time to meet with Edgar again, so we descended back to the city centre.
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May 23, 2008 02:00 PM Armenia - Khor Virap & Yerevan
I got up rather late to a cloudless morning. I quickly made a decision to go to the Khor Virap monastery to take the advantage of clear views of the Mount Ararak. But by the time I got myself organised it was already noon and not only the worst time to take photographs but also some clouds started obscuring the peak.
I was whisked by an ageing BMW 5 series to Khor Virap, some 35 kilometers south west of the capital. The road was excellent and the transfer was quick and hair-rising. The Armenians' style of driving was... in line with the rest of the continent; no fear, no belts, no hands, no rules, no consideration... Anyway, I loved the monastery. It was packed with students, who just graduated that morning. They came to say their thanks. It was superb. I obviously did not expect to have this somewhat remote monastery to myself, but the crowds it pulled this morning were phenomenal. Entire couches of students came. There was a river of people flowing in from the car park. And all this with a mighty and gracious Mount Ararak in the background created a view impossible to forget. Occasionally, the clouds moved away from the peak disclosing its snowy cap, which was almost blinding in the harsh mid-day sun.
Now, I am typing these words at a Santa Fe City Cafe, which has free Wi-Fi on request - just bring your laptop or a mobile internet device and they will give you a user name and a password. By the way, Santa Fe City, a cafe serving authentic Japanese dishes (sushi, tempura and teppanyaki) and beer served in chilled glasses is a perfect place to chill out, cool down with a cold beer. All tables are shaded with a marquises and the personnel is attentive. Their VIP sections (3000 extra charge per table) is complete with hyper-comfy sofas and armchairs and even soft blankets are provided on default. A bliss, seriously - particularly after climbing the Cascade nearby. The park where the cafe is based is very pleasant and green and the large fountain adds to the coolness of the site. And, and and - I could only see the Armenians here.
Tonight, I am hoping to experience some more action. The students graduated and there should be more partying than last night. That is my expectation!
So, so far so good. I am pleased that I came to Armenia. Tune in for more news and pictures shortly.
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May 22, 2008 02:00 PM Armenia - the first night
Perhaps I held my expectations about the nightlife in Yerevan too high. After the smooth procedures of the arrival at the airport (including the painless visa on arrival process), I immediately embarked on the night scene, as I promised myself. And I was a little disappointed.
The young ladies at the hotel did not know where I could go to party, although it was Friday night! When I chose a position from the notoriously inaccurate Lonely Planet, the Poplavok Jazz Cafe, they said it was a good choice. They even were kind enough to call the venue to ask if there were still working and then ordered me a taxi.
When I arrived, there were only two people at the upstairs bar and about a handful of others in the downstairs bar, which was fabulously located by a shallow pool. I loved the place, but no music was playing and the atmosphere was much to subdued to my liking. Anyway, at about 3 a.m. I decided that I ought to go back to the hotel and try to get some sleep before the day.
What I liked about the night scene in Yerevan was the main Republic Square, which was brilliantly lit in the night. I knew that I was going to come back there at night the next night to take some nice pictures (despite my lacking of a tripod, again!).
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May 20, 2008 02:00 PM Armenia - two days to go...
Well, I have a great run of telling everyone I know that I was going to Armenia this weekend. It is a long weekend in the UK (Monday is free) so everyone is asking: "so, what are your plans for the Bank Holiday Weekend?". And it has been a great pleasure replying "Armenia" and seeing their faces. I bet that over half of the people had no idea where Armenia was. By the way, is Armenia in Asia or in Europe? There has not been a clear consensus about this. If the Caucasus Mountains were the division between Europe and Asia, then Armenia, along with the other Caucasus states would be in Asia, since they lie south of the range. Although, I previously thought that they could just make it to Europe... But today, I change my mind.
Anyway, I have been counting down the days! And hoping for a good weather. I really would like to see Mount Ararak. And generally to have a good time in the outdoors. It is always better than wandering in the rain and constantly protecting the camera from getting wet.
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May 16, 2008 02:00 PM Armenia - six days to go...
I have only just come back from Iran (where incidentally I visited an Armenian Quarter in Esfahan), but I am already counting days before my trip to Armenia next week. Flying with bmi again on Friday.
I have managed to book myself to a hotel, the Areg Hotel, at about €30 per single room, just outside the centre. From what I read in the available literature, Yerevan is a big party and countless cafes place. I certainly hope so. My plan is to go out straight after checking in at the hotel late on Friday night.
Then, my plan includes visiting Zvartnots, Echtmiadzin and Ashtarak churches and monasteries on Saturday, if possible. On Sunday I would go to see Khor Virap monastery at the foot of the Mount Ararat, and if time allows also the Garni Temple and Geghard Monastery.
It sounds that I am planning to steer away from Yerevan. Well, I am reading that the capital is not particularly spectacular, apart form of course its nightlife and cafes.
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May 08, 2008 02:00 PM Isfahan - time to say good-bye
I so didn't want to leave Isfahan. I could spend all day around the Emam Square watching people, staring at the genius of the square's creation. The tearoom at the top of the bazaar was incomparable for location. It was so easy to talk to people. The students were so eager to talk to me. I was staying at a nice hotel in the centre in a suite. So, when the time came to get ready to transfer to Teheran for the last leg of the holiday, I could not get out of bed! My original plan was to leave on a 9 am bus. Eventually, I only checked out at 10:30 am. I was lucky to catch a bus for the capital that was to leave at 10:30 but was still there at 10:55 and I managed to hop on in a literally last second. It was definitely the least upkept Volvo coach I was on in Iran. Well, to be fair it was the oldest and the other two were Scania. Anyway, it was still good and the driver kept the speed at the maximum foreseen by the factory. The speedometer was happily resting at the 120 km/h mark. I was the only tourist on the coach so I received a lot attention from both the driver and the onboard personnel (one guy, who seemed to be mentally disadvantaged).
For some strange reason the coach stopped 2km from Qom for about 30 minutes. I didn't enjoy that break. I'd always prefer to get to my destination as soon as possible, so I have time at the destination for visiting, exploring, etc.
Polish composer Preissner's music was used often on the radio commercials, particularly the music he'd written for the film trilogy 'Three Colours. Blue. White. Red' by the Polish director Kieslowski. The piece that was used for the Ode to Europe in the Blue film was most popular. That was an interesting ride indeed.
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May 07, 2008 02:00 PM Isfahan - losing its charm?
After calling 15 hotels and visiting three, none of which would give me a room, I became concerned that I would have to leave the city on an overnight train to Teheran. That was not easy either. That night even the train was full! What does one do in situation like that? Well, with my luck (sic!) I got this suite for €60 per night.
Traffic, traffic, traffic! Wow! Such a nice, it seemed, city and experience of it so badly ruined by the traffic. It most definitely reminded me of the road conditions in Vietnam. If a pedestrian decided to stand at a pedestrian crossing and wait for cars to stop and let them cross, one would stand there for days and eventually die of hunger or, with a bit of luck, of sunstroke and extreme dehydration. The trick was of course to just enter the flow of traffic and keep crossing. The drivers would get annoyed with that honking viciously but not more annoyed that the pedestrians who have to resort to risking their lives just to cross to the other side of the street in the time of peace. The pedestrians had no pedestrian zones anywhere in Isfahan. The pavements, squares and even bazaars were infested with speeding motorbikes and racing bicycles. What kind of game was that? 'Chase a pedestrian until turd comes out"?
When I finally got to the Emam Square in one piece, I met two guys who wanted to speak English and one who wanted to practice his German. I quickly got tired of German as mine is not that great, but he quickly found a native Bavarian, so I did not have to oblige anymore. The other two lads were funny enough to keep me amused until 9 pm. By that time another chap joined the conversation. His name was Ibrahim and his English was slightly less smooth than the other two, but he was the only one who was keen to take me out, while the others claimed it was bed time. Ibrahim had a motorbike and that was excellent. He could show me many places, particularly some of the magnificent bridges.
At the Si-o-se Pol Bridge was this very popular tearoom. It was very busy well past 11 pm. So much for bed time... Ibrahim wanted to show me more the next day, so we made an appointment at 8 am. He had to take me through back alleys as he did not have a helmet and for some reason, the police decided to take their job very seriously that morning.
I found the Armenian Quarter very interesting. The cathedral was not huge but was utterly interesting for its painted walls inside. One of the walls, above the entrance (or perhaps intended for worshippers exiting the temple) depicted three layers of life - the Earth, Heaven and Hell. Some scenes were very dramatic. I liked the Death playing with its weapon in the right end of the Earth layer. I have to admit that Heaven was not portrayed very flatteringly. It showed souls sitting on clouds in a terribly well organised manner. It did not look like anyone was having fun there.
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May 06, 2008 02:00 PM Yazd - friends everywhere
People of Yazd were very friendly often saying hello to me on the streets. The ladies were also flirty. Iranian law requires them to wear headscarves (hejab) they do not need to cover their faces. Actually most of them do not. Some wear black chadors but increasingly more of them dress in a less conservative way and wear colourful headscarves. This way it was easy for them to chat me up. Some were very funny. When I was walking in the old town with my guide, he was teasing me - "do they lurk at me or you, my friend?". I always replied that it was him. Two of them made an attempt to invite us for tea.
I was lucky in Yazd to experience a mighty thunderstorm with multiple dramatic lightning. Locals told me that rain and storms did not happen often in the region. It only rained for a short while but the lightning and the growls of thunder lingered for a few hours. The sky was dark grey, so some of my pictures came out dramatic rather than postcard pretty.
Apart from the wind towers Yazd's main attraction was Jameh Mosque. Its supertall portal decorated with countless tiles of different shades of blue and green and two minarets rising immediately from its top could hardly fit in the frame of a regular camera. The mosque's dome was additionally decorated with orange tiles. While the portal had some floral elements of decoration, the dome had only geometric figures.
The old town was hiding many smaller and older mosques, some of which were cosy and almost intimate. There was also an interesting Yazd Water Museum (free entry) explaining the extensive system of underground water channels cslled qanat created to supply water to the town and crop fields in the area.
I also liked the alleged Alexander's Prison complex including the oldest temple in Yazd. The prison had a superb underground cafe with a central fountain under the circular skylight.
But one of the greatest sights were the Tower of Salience, remains of the Zorastrian tradition of 'burying' the deceased. Two large circular but not tall towers on the top of two hills (one per hill) were used to display the bodies to be consumed by voltures. Putting bodies in the ground would contaminate the earth otherwise. The towers were out of town slightly, and there was no public transport. A taxi hired for an hour set me back by 18,000 rials.
I went to visit Afghani refugees. It was the family of my guide, Samin, who also worked at the Orient, the Oasis and the Silk Route hotels. The family was rather shy. Samin's brothers, 18 and 12, never said a word to me, but I knew they did not speak any English. The family has lived in Yazd for a number of years. Their compound was in the heart of the old town. I saw three rooms. The first one was like a hall, where the shoes were being kept. The second one, of the same size, was a living room, where the only piece of furniture was a small tv set, a carpet and a few cushions. The third room was the kitchen. I am not sure where the family slept. I know that Samin was sleeping at one of the hotels, where he often worked as a night porter. The compound had also a small yards, where Samin kept his huge Afghani chickens. They were huge!
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May 05, 2008 02:00 PM Naqsh-e Rostam and Rajab; Persian Royal Tombs
From Persepolis I went to see royal tombs. The first one was Naqsh-e Rajab, which boasted fantastic reliefs, three of which of considerable size. The tomb looked like an entry to a grotto or a cave. I spent 2,000 rials on the ticket and about ten minutes admiring the carvings.
The second, and last, stop was at the amazing Naqsh-e Rostam. The site comprised of four magnificently rock hewn tombs high in the cliff, decorated with reliefs. One of them was the tomb of Darius I the Great. The tombs were hewn in the form of regular massive crosses.
The site was completed by an intriguing tower, which although made of stone, looked like a wooden structure. A stunning place. And it is visible for a few kilometres. The tombs looked spectacular from the distance. And they lost nothing in their awesomeness when viewed from up close.
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May 04, 2008 02:00 PM Persepolis - what a gem!
Persepolis once was [supposedly] the capital of the most powerful empire on the globe. Its beauty was only rivalled by Babylon at that time, perhaps. I say supposedly, since to this day, historians have not agreed a common position regarding Persepolis’s status as a capital. It was expanded by Darius I the Great, the same responsible for the Battle of Marathonbut then Persia was the Achaemenid Empire, whose capital was Ecbatana (now modern town of Hamedan), apparently. Although it cannot be ruled out that Persia had more than one capital during the time of Darius I the Great. Now, it is just a splendid collection of ruined columns, piazzas, arches and remains of grand palaces.
Only 55km from Shiraz there it is - one of the greatest ancient sites on Earth. Had the grand leader Darius I the Great, who started building it or expanding it, lived long enough to complete its creation, Persepolis would most definitely become the capital of the Persian Empire. Or perhaps if Alexander the Great had not attacked the Persians, then again it might have been the capital, too and even more would have remained to this day.
Persepolis seriously impressed me! The carvings on the walls of this city, many of which survived in remarkable condition, must have made it mind-boggling place. Records suggest that the carvings were painted in vivid colours. Wow!
My jaw dropped when I saw the single colour winged warriors, saddled horses, raging lions and countless delegates from neighbouring kingdoms. I could not imagine how spectacular the halls and courtyards looked painted. One of the massive reliefs from the treasury was one of the most fascinating things I have ever seen.
I arrived at 7:45 am, so I had the site virtually for myself. Only at about 9:30 am hordes of tourists began swarming in. For two hours I kept wandering in amazement. And snapping frenzily. I went almost twice around the entire city. The site was well organised and carefully watched. Relatively clean toilets were available in both the visitor centre and just beside the ancient treasury hall. A museum, teahouse, cafeteria, snack shop, gift shops, and even Iranian fastfood outlet complemented the facilities. The key monuments were described in both Persian and English and the city was signposted. Parts of Persepolis received wooden walkways otherwise one had to walk on a very uncomfortable gravel floor.
I loved the shy morning sun somewhat sheepishly peaking from behind a thin layer of white cloud. It illuminated some of the fabulous reliefs and carvings wonderfully and gently. That was perfect for my picture taking. I was proud of myself of selecting the morning for the escapade.
A few sections of the site were closed for some reason, which was a little disappointing but still the general access allowed close inspection of the individual elemnts of the city and its decorations.
I was also impressed with the admission charge - 5,000 rials (£0.27)!
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