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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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May 02, 2017 08:00 PM The road of holes
Secondary roads are full of holes in Ukraine. Today I took a bus to Verkhovyna - a big Hutsul village on the Cheremosh River. It was just one hour drive, but very tiring due to the bumps. Somwhere in the middle of the route we reached the pass 1040 m above sea, I believe.
In Verkhovyna sun appeared and I enjoyed the view of the snowcapped Chernohora Range. There is also picture-postcard orthodox church.
Then I walked few km down the river to Krivorivnija - famous for the landscapes and Hutsul Museum, there is also nice wooden church from 18th century surrounded by colorful cemetary.
Can you imagine? Since four days I did not see any other foreign tourist! This can give you the idea where I am and how authentic is my environment here. I like it!
I returned to Vorokhta by the same bumpy road, paying 23 hryvnia for one hour trip. Do you remember my travel on the Siberian Road of Bones? This route can be called Road of Holes! :)
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May 01, 2017 08:00 PM To the end of the railroad and onward...
In the early morning I said goodbye to the friendly hosts from Marketti Guest House. Oksana gave me hot croissants for the second breakfast... Lovely people! At the station I bought the ticket to Solotvino - the last station on this line going along the Romanian border. In Solotvino it is dead end of the rail track. The ticket cost me 15 hryvnia - 60 cents for 3 hours travel in the junk car.
In Solotvino 2 I found the "Avtostanica" - the bus station some 400 m on the main road and I bought the ticket for the 10.55 bus to Rahiv (29 hryv). The bus departed 15 minutes before the schedule (nobody complained).
The road was bumpy and the driver was driving like in the ski slalom... Uff...but the views! Long time we were going along the border river Tisa with soldiers wandering around. Then there was a mountain valley and the monument "Geographical centre of Europe" on the left with huge tourist bazaar. We reached little mountain township of Rakhiv in the midday. New railroad to Kolomyia starts here. At 12.30 pm there was a train departing to Kiev. I jumped on it, paying (as the others do) 10 hryv to the conductor. It was 2 hours of fantastic journey up to the mountain pass through the tunnels and viaducts. I saw the highest peak of Ukraine - Mt Howerla surprisely covered by snow. I left the train in Worohta station. I planned to climb Howerla. Is this possible?
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Apr 30, 2017 08:00 PM Last frontier of Ukraine
In the morning I took a junk train to Vinohradiv. My ticket cost 9 hryvnia - like 40 US cents for one hour journey. There were many stops in small villages on our route. New people embarked train and the conductor collected money from them. He has modern ticket printing machine but he do not print any ticket. It looks like a good business. Does he share the income with the colleagues in the locomotion? We are now close to the Romanian border, through the window I saw a lot post-soviet ruins...
Vinohradiv is a cozy little town with 5 or more churches of different orientation. There is also nice palace of Hungarian family Perenyi (it was Hungary here in the past) with nice, but run-down park around - see the picture.
At the end of the township you will see on e hill a romantic ruin of the castle built in 14th century...
Three days a week a narrow- track railway can take you in the toy-train to nearby Khmelnik. I hoped I will use it today. I forgot that today is May 1st - holiday. They should operate, because more people have day off and they can go and enjoy. But this is Ukraine - the staff prefere to rest... In the little Vinohradiv I found lovely pension run by Ukrainian-Italian couple. It is called Guest House Marketti - Gichki street 23. It is hard to find elsewhere in Ukraine such a nice family atmosphere and such hospitable and helpful people. Highly recommend! They charge like 13 USD per huge room with great breakfast. Wi-fi is excellent. Oksana speaks Russian and basic English...
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Apr 29, 2017 08:00 PM Elektrichka to Berehove
I decided to continue travel by rail - also because the bus station is quite far. In the soviet-style station building in Mukachewe I bought the ticket for elekrichka - short distance train -hto Berehove. It cost me 18 hr - less then 1 USD, but the standard of travel in the old, junk and dirty car was adequate to this price. After half an hour I made the connection in Batevo for another 40 min journej. People in the car spoke... Hungarian.
In Berehove I was walking half an hour to the historic hotel Arany Pava - Golden Peacock. City is small, cozy, sleepy and nice.
Hotel is located in the heart of the old town... It has a charm, but half of the building is still in ruin. In the nearest bazaar I bought fresh fruits and vegies - they cost pennies. Kesenem seypem! Hungarian is everpresent They say that 95 % of the population here are Hungarians. I went to the Sunday mass in thd catholic church and the servise was also in Hungarian. So why they are in Ukraine? History... Hungary loose in the WW1 for Chechoslovakia, after WW2 as a result of Soviet dictate it was Soviet property. Ukraine get it from USSR.
Trees are in blossom here, but it is cold. I expect improvement tomorrow....
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Apr 28, 2017 08:00 PM Castle in Mukacheve
Cloudy day. In the morning I took a walk around Uzhhorod expecting that the churches will be open for service. Good idea! Huge Greek Cathedral was open and I had a chance to enjoy beautiful interior with great ikonostas. I Kalvin church there was also service and I had a chance to listen to the singings in... Hungarian. Yes, Transcarpatians are a melting pot of many nations!
Then I took a bus to Mukacheve. Ukraine. Some people buy the ticket in the terminal. But most of passengers is embarking the bus right on the street, 50 m away. They are giving money to the driver and did not ask for the ticket. Secret? They pay less that me with the ticket (29 hr).
In Mukacheve I checked-in in Tonal hotel just near railway station. 400 hr for double room with shared bath.
The main attraction of Mukacheve is Palanka Castle from 15th century built on the high hill. It is worth to climb and pay 30 hr entry fee.
Great view from the bastions, exhibitions: history, etnography, paintings...
Back in the town I took a long walk to the other side of the river to visit Orthodox female Monastery of St Nicolas - great interior there too!
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Apr 27, 2017 08:00 PM Through the border to Ukraine
There are buses going from Kosice, Slovakia to Uzhorod, Ukraine. But eurolines go at inconvenient times and cost more so I found local bus of Arriva company depatring at 7.30 am to Michalovce (1.80 euro) and this one was connected with other bus departing from Michalovce tnrough the border to Uzhorod (3,20 eu). It works! But the drivers tend to depart earlier, so be there 15 min ahead!
I was surprised: no congestion at the border! Officers collect the passports and return them 20 minutes later. Welcome to Ukraine! 3 kms further on was already Uzhorod. The city lies on the Uzh river and has the rich history and old architecture worth to see. I was walking from the rail/ bus station half an hour to Voloshina street where nice hostel "Hospoda" is located. Clean room with bathrom next door costs 300 hryvnias (for one dollar they were giving today 26,15 hry).
There is breakfast room with fridge and microvave oven. You can make your tea and coffee but bring the bags with you!
In the afternoon I was climbing cobbled streets to the castle (entry 25 hr). They have interestind exhibitions inside. Below the castle you will see another museum - the skansen of rural architecture (entry 35 hr).
Apart from the collection of the interesting wooden buildings (church is the nicest) I was lucky to see there few local folk groups singing and dancing. It was really geat folk show on the open air. What a day!
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Apr 26, 2017 08:00 PM Kosice - Slovakia
Single room for 13 euro? Yes, I stay here in Hostel Barno, Tolsteho 22. It looks like former student's hostel but it is clean and you have one bathroom for two rooms combined in one unit. Wi-fi connection is excellent, they provide little towel, but you have to bring your soap...
Kosice has very nice old town with St Elisabeth cathedral located in the middle of the main street. In the Hlavna Street you will find tourist info office where charming ladies distribute free maps and provide information. There are many atmospheric side streets to stroll around, churches, museums and gardens. Close to the theatre they built nice fountain with the carrillion playing every hour. There is a good choice if pubs (beer from 1 euro) and restaurants. For the budget traveller bread is more important - 1,20 euro per kilo in the supermarket :)
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Apr 25, 2017 08:00 PM Gdansk to Cracow to Slovakia...
Spring is late this year. Sun was shining but it was only 4 deg Celsius when I was walking in the morning with my backpack to the city bus. Bus 110 goes to the airport. 40 minutes drive - cheap and convenient! Boarding was on time, then during the LOT 1-hour flight they served only little snack and mineral water. Poor service, but the ticket cost me only 86 zlotys!
In Cracow I had 2-hours break. Then from the bus stop located just in front of the arrival little bus of Slovak company Tiger Express took me to Kosice. I bought their ticket on internet - it cost 20 euro... After 2 hours we reached the Polish-Slovak border in Muszynka. No control at all! Then the landscape became more open with many rolling hills and... many traffic radars in passing-by villages. Before 5 pm we reached Kosice - the capital of Eastern Slovakia.
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Apr 24, 2017 08:00 PM New voyage - Transcarpathia
New voyage! I'm flying cheaply to Krakow, and from there I'll take the bus to Eastern Slovakia. There I will stay in unknown city of Košice. But the main goal of this trip is the Ukrainian Transcarpathia - areas near the border with Hungary and Romania... I want to see Kolomyia, former Polish city Stanislawow and again, after years of stroll down the streets of Lviv. I expect to find there nice mountain landscapec and authentic folklore. Let's hope that the weather will be nice... This is not going to be a long trip - I have to be back in time to sow and plant in my Wojtkówka! :)
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Apr 22, 2017 08:00 PM Awarded in Cracow
I have been invited to join the ceremony of opening of the Alley of Great Polish Travellers, Explorers and Conquerors in Cracow - the former capital of Poland. They planted here 30 oak trees - each one dedicated to one outstanding person. 18 travellers of 30 selected already passed away...
I was honored by the nice oak tree (and the nice tableau in front of it). Thank you Cracow for appreciation!
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