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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Mar 08, 2016 09:00 PM I am flying to Malaysia!
It is time to say goodbye to China. During the night I am flying by Air Asia to Malaysia – much warmer country.
Night flight never is comfortable, unless you travel in the first class. When we landed in Kuala Lumpur before sunrise I used my heater to prepare big (my size) cup of strong coffee. Then I was feeling much better.
It was 9.20 am when I landed in Johor Bahru – capital of the province, close to Singapore. After icy Chinese mountains I experienced again the tropics – hot,hot and very humid climate. I ame close to the equator!
The airportin Johor is 35 kms north from the center so it was important to find public bus 333 going from here to the Larkin Bus Station. The have a shelter just opposite the exit, but the timetable is erratic. Ticket cost only 3.50 – less then a dollar. Money changers at the bus station pay 4 ringitts foe 1USD. Some 150 m up from the bus station I found Double K hostel -room without windows but with good a/c costs 50 ringitts here.
Bus station is 5 kms from the center but it is wort to know that they provide free bus service to downtown from stand C32-33. Itook it to see the attractions of the city.
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Mar 07, 2016 09:00 PM The Panda Day
It is International Women's Day - besst wishes for all our ladies! But in Chengdu it is cloudy day. Early in the morning I took no.1 bus to the final station and changed to 87. This one took me to Chengdu Panda Base - the only place in China where you can see these funny animals in the big enclosures.
The ticket costs 58 yuans, but seniors over 60 has 50% discount. You have to be early, since later, after big bamboo breakfast the pandas go sleep! I was on time for good pictures and had a lot of fun. Do you know that they have also red pandas? But they are completly different...
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Mar 06, 2016 09:00 PM Chengdu back to front
I have been here last time like 15 years ago, before climbing Emeishan. Today I had good opportunity to refresh memories and to see the new places. Once a week staff from my Mix hostel offers free walking tour. I signed for and we started at 10 am. The only advantage of this tour wast that they took me to the hard-to-find back alley where is hidden mini local market for fruits, vegies and ready to eat food. This was great to see how they sell, buy, shout.
Then we went to the Wenshu Monastery - largesf and most important Buddhist monastery in Chengdu. Entry is free and the local people are coming to practice here. It is the must if you are in Chengdu since the city hasn't more such a places. Little charming Park is nearby.
Then I said goodbye to the rest of the group and.. started lonely walk south - to the central Tianfu square. I was lucky to find in the side allet the little barber shop. O yes, I am on my trail already more then 2 months so it is time for the haircut. Maestro de barbiere wanted initially 25 yuan, but finally he did it for 10 :) When I arrived to Tianfu square to be photographed with Chairman Mao I had already new outlook - see the picture...
Mr Mao is doing well, like 15 years ago. But more police forces around. There are new skyscrapers around the Tianfu, a lot of flowers, but in the weekday not too much people. I was walking onward to the People's Park where since morning local amateurs are playing, singing, dancing. For the stranger it is great opportunity to see elements of the culture, but also their everyday life e.g. licensed ear cleaners.
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Mar 05, 2016 09:00 PM Chengdu foggy, Chengdu smoggy...
Chengdu, the capital city of Sichuan province has 4 millions inhabitants. Here I am! The last expensive way to get from the airport to the city is to take the air shuttle bus no.1 in front of the terminal 2 (10 yuan) and go to the gast stop at Mishun hotel. Then change to the subway line 1 and go anywhere. SybwY and buses in Chengdu cost already 2 yuan per ride. The subway impressed me - very modern, with glass doors to the train, but the number of English subtitles is miserable... I disembarked at Wenshu and took a 20 min walk to MIX hostel. It is well-organized institution, but a little cramp. Single with shared bath costs here 80 yuan, but they did not mentioned that the bath is upstairs. So I am walking now up and down. Bring your towel - they do not provide them even to the private rooms!
It is already spring here - warm days. But as in such a big city I suffer a lot of smog. In the afternoon I found the big department store. I found there bread (5,80 for 450g loaf) eggs for 6 jao each and other eatable goods. But be careful - the price on display is not for 1 kilo but for 500 g! That's how the want to attract the buyers. Capitalism is already also in China...
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Mar 04, 2016 09:00 PM Jade Mountain Monastery
Can you imagine? Being in China in the traditional Chinese mansion, enjoying cherry tree in blossom I was listening to the tunes of my favoelomployeeseomposer – Chopin! My hosts have a huge collection of several thousands of CDs. They wanted to make me happy… Thank you! It is Saturday – free day today. After Chinese breakfast under thegcherry tree (little boiled bread balls filled with peanut and sesame) Julia & David decided to go with me to the bottom of Yulong mountain to show me traditional village of Naxi people living around Lijiang. They built their houses using mud and stone. The village still looks like centuries ago. Finally they left me at the Tibetan Monastery of the Red Hat sect. The name is very poetic: Jade Peak Monastery. In the gate they wanted me to pay 80 juan entry fee. I was staing there almost an hour looking at the people going through. More then 150 people passed through the gate. Nobody was controlled and asked to buy the ticket. Only me, because I look like the foreigner! That’s discrimination!
But I entered monastery anyway – to see there praying halls and famous Sacred tree of 10000 camelia flowers. I am not sure if there are 10000 flowers but it is the fact that the tree is more the 500 years old. It was saved during the Cultural Revolution by the monk, who risking his life was bringing the water to keep it alive. His portrait is there on display.
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Mar 03, 2016 09:00 PM Cherry Lodge in Lijiang
They offer daily direct bus from Tiger Leaping Gorge to Lijiang. It will cost you 55 yuans and on the way it is worth to have a seat on the left side of the bus for the nice views of the snowy mountains.
In Lijiang I decided to stay in Cherry Inn. Since the address was unclear (that's China!) I asked somebody to make the telephone call and they were so nice to come and pick me up. Before we arrived to their place I recognized that it is some 6 kms from the main attractions of the historic city. Uuuuu! But I changed my mind when I saw traditional Chinese mansion with a cherries blossoming in the courtyard.
In addition they offer free drop off in the city. English is spoken and the hosts have the deep knowlege about local culture. Great place to fee local style of life! And in the morning you will see the sun rising over the mountains right from your window!
Lijiang is one of the most interesting places in Yunan province. Naxi people live here and they preserve their customs and culture. The complex of the old town is now on the list of UNESCO World Heritage. Imagine kilometers of narrow, cocobbled streets, stone bridges on the channels bringing water from the mountains and wooden, beautifully carved houses.
They charge hefty 80 yuans for the entrance to the old city, but if will come early you have a chance to buy for this money two good dinners :)
The sun was strong and I was wandering 3 or 4 hours in this fascinating labirynth looking like the silversmiths make their rings, like they produce local sweets and how the pretty ladies pose for the pictures in the national costumes. Another great day!
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Mar 02, 2016 09:00 PM Hiking the Tiger Gorge
Chinese legend says that desperated tiger escaping the hunter jumped through the rough Jinsha river at the place where it is only 25 m wide. In addition the huge boulder lies here in the middle of the river (they call it Tiger Stone). Now it is the main tourist attraction. Buses full of Chinese tourists are coming here - to the place called Upper Rapids. It is close to the main road in Qiaotou... The place offers great view, but to be closer to the river you have to take the solid stairs - about 200 m down. Few tourists decide to go down the gorge to see middle and lower rapids. I did. There is a nice mountain road sneaking some 300 mabove the river offering many great views and the traffic on this segment is minimal. Ambitious people took the trail - path going above the road, but this sulution offers rather the views og the surrounding peaks and walls then the views of the river. It took me full day to walk from the Upper Rapids to the lower ones where I live in Tibet GH. But what a day!
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Mar 01, 2016 09:00 PM Tiger Leaping Gorge
Do you like the marvels of the nature? This is the place for you!
It took me 2 hours and 35 yuans for bus ticket to get from Shangri La to the little village of Qiatou. Then I made a call to the chosen Tibet Guest house and 30 minutes later we were driving to the gorge. At the beginning we stopped at the nat. Park desk and I was forced to pay 65 yuan entry fee. :( plus 20 yuans for minibus transfer to the guesthouse.
Tiger Leaping Gorge has an opinion to be one of the most deep and picturesque gorges in the world. It is 16 kms long. Since few years there is paved mountain road going along the Jinsha River some 200-300 above. Tibet Guest House (booked via booking.com) was very good choice. Very nice location - facing the gorge and huge mountain. Completly empty before the season, reliable staff. And traditional Tibetan architecture with lovely terrace and verandah.
As for such attractive lacation the price for the room is very reasonable: 50 yuans for upstairs room with shared bath or 100 for downstairs ensuite. It is only 2000 m above sea level here, I took a breath and go for my first walk - to the end of the gorge. It took me 2 hours each way, up and down, but the views were great.
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Feb 29, 2016 09:00 PM Little Potala?
On the outskirts of Shangri La, hidden in the side valley there is Tibetan monastery of Sumtseling. To get there you have to board city bus no 3 (only 1 yuan). There will be surprise at the end of the route: the bus will stop at the big building, security guy will enter and they will take all tourists off. The bus will go onward to monastery with the local people...
You have to buy ticket in the big building for hefty 150 yuan, then on the other side of the building you will board specian tourist bus and it will take you to the monastery gate. I was very much impressed when I saw Sumtselling for the first time.
In front of the monastery there is little lake - you can walk around in 40 minutes enjoying the reflection. I cross the gate, then there are long stairs up to the main terrace, quite an effort on the level of 3200 m.
On the main terrace the monks were conducting ceremonies blowing horns and making offerings - what an interesting event - they allowed to take pictures (forbidden inside the temples).
I spent more the 2 hours visiting the temples one by one. Can you imagine 4-strey high statue of Tsongkhapa?
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Feb 28, 2016 09:00 PM The mythic Shangri La
Do you know the "Lost horizon"? Or the black & white movie based on this story? It is the fiction, but who didn't dream about the isolated from the world valley of happiness where the people live 120 years and more? Here they came to the conclusion that the valley around the town of Zhondian looks most like Shangri La and... changed the city name to Shangri La. For commercial reason of course. :) Here I am!
I stay in Shangri La in the old mansion - old city area. Just 200 m up o the hill there is Temple of the 100 Chicken. Funny name - isn't it? After the big fire of 2014 they are now restoring shops, stylish restaurants, guest houses. I am on the level 2300 m so it was not easy to climb tge stairs to the temple. But it is worth - not only for two ornate temple buildings but also for the unusual prayer wheel some 15 m high - I didn't see such a huge wheel before.
Nights are very cold and the only good think is that they provide electric blankets. Sorry, beds are Very hard. After days of rice and noodles I found round the corner little Tibetan bakery - smaller bread costs 10 y, big one - 20 y. Bon apetit!
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