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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Mar 11, 2016 09:00 PM Along the eastern coast...
Aaallah akbar! I am in muslim Malaysia and several times each day I listen the call for pray. First time around 5 am!! But today it is OK – I go in the dark to the jetty on Tioman to catch the first ferry back to the mainland. Should depart at 7 am, departed on 7.45…
In fact, it is not a ferry but big motorboat taking only around 150 people.
Book early since sometimes sailing is full 2-3 days ahead!
Bye, Tioman! Two hours later we landed in Mersing. In the bus station I recognized that today is the beginning of the school holidays and almost all buses are already fully booked. Wow! Fotrunately I got a ticketfor the passing through bus to Kuala Terengganu. I am going north – to see another paradise islands on the Malaysian coast – Parhentian Islands.
It was a long, 8- hours bus journey. Through the palm plantations, little villages and coastal towns. We reached Terengganu at 8 pm. On the bus station there was a guy offereng shared taxi to the port of Kuala Besut for 20 ringgits per person. OK! Another 1,5 hours drive. It was 10 pm when I found the last room in the shabby Samudera Hotel. Hefty 100 ringgits – vacations price!
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Mar 10, 2016 09:00 PM Jungle walk to Juara
I am on the South China Sea… On the eastern coast of Tioman Island there is only one settlement – Juara. They tried to build the mountain road to this village but what was born is the single lane concrete track with a gradient 45 degrees in many places so only 4WD cars allowed on it.
Planing a hard walk to Juara I decided to take rather the old jungle trail. It starts at the mosque (masjid) in Tekek. It was 9.15 am when I took a picture of empty mosque (Malaysia is Muslim country but it seems that few people go to the Mosque on Friday) and started to walk uphill. You do not need a guide to follow this trail. It is clear, single path with no alternative routes. Water is present in many places since you are going along the pipes who transfer catched water from the mountain to the ssettlement. Trekking boots required. A lot of concrete stairs, but around you have real, lush jungle with giant, old trees. A lot of sweat! On this jungle trail I met only 2 other tourists – from France. After 1,5 hours I reached the pass on the altitude of 380 m – that’s what my GPS said. It is not written any guide that 15 minutes later the jungle trail joins the concrete Tekek – Juara road! It took me one hour more to come down to Juara village located in the beautiful bay. The beach is beautiful here – see the top picture. There are already small guesthouses and restaurants, but few tourists because this difficult access (drivers ask 25 ringitts one way pp).
Exhausted after few hours of the walk in the heat I started to hitch on the exit bridge from the village. No, locals didn’t stop to pick me up. You know who finally took me up after one hour of waiting? Russian tourists! Shame on you, Malaysia! & Sposibo bolshoye, rebyata!
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Mar 09, 2016 09:00 PM One more paradise island
The bus from Johor to Mersing departed with 25 min delay. I do not recommend SxS International company. On the way I saw through the window kilometers of oil palm plantations. This must be big business in Malaysia! After some 2 hours of drive in Mersing I bought at the bus terminal round trip ticket for the ferry to Tioman Island. Jetty is 10 min walk along the river. Uuuuu, there is a lot of bureaucracy… You have to call 4 windows one by one. One -check the ticket, two – register passport, three – pay 20 ringitts National Park fee, four – pay 5 ringitts Marine Park fee, five – get boarding pass. Little speedboat was full when we started 2-hours journey. After 90 minutes I saw through the dirty windows the green mountains of Tioman. So it is not flat like the Maledives?!
Tekek, the little “capital” of the island was the third stop on the estern coast. Where to stay? Just 500 m walk in the heat and humidity south from the jetty I found Cheers Chalet. Little single with a/c will costs me 60 ringitts per night. Bath is next door, flowers around… Lovely and cheap place!
In the afternoon I took a walk north – to the next coastal village. You have to know that Tioman is undeveloped. The only stretch of the concrete road goes 2 kms north from Tekek and 3 kms south. I reached northern end and then there is just a path after some steps at the cape. I went to the next village Air Bartang (ABC). There is a lot of accommodation and little restaurants. Peopla are nice and ready for a chat, but sometimes they do not know English, Malay only like tis old man:
I was walking till the beautiful sunset. Tioman is 20 kms by 11 km big.. But not easy to explore due to the tropical climate (locals are to lazy to walk in the heat – they use motorbikes), lack of the roads – practically to many villages you can go only by the sea. Let’s see what I will manage to see tomorrow. Good night from the paradise island Dear Friends!
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Mar 08, 2016 09:00 PM I am flying to Malaysia!
It is time to say goodbye to China. During the night I am flying by Air Asia to Malaysia – much warmer country.
Night flight never is comfortable, unless you travel in the first class. When we landed in Kuala Lumpur before sunrise I used my heater to prepare big (my size) cup of strong coffee. Then I was feeling much better.
It was 9.20 am when I landed in Johor Bahru – capital of the province, close to Singapore. After icy Chinese mountains I experienced again the tropics – hot,hot and very humid climate. I ame close to the equator!
The airportin Johor is 35 kms north from the center so it was important to find public bus 333 going from here to the Larkin Bus Station. The have a shelter just opposite the exit, but the timetable is erratic. Ticket cost only 3.50 – less then a dollar. Money changers at the bus station pay 4 ringitts foe 1USD. Some 150 m up from the bus station I found Double K hostel -room without windows but with good a/c costs 50 ringitts here.
Bus station is 5 kms from the center but it is wort to know that they provide free bus service to downtown from stand C32-33. Itook it to see the attractions of the city.
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Mar 07, 2016 09:00 PM The Panda Day
It is International Women's Day - besst wishes for all our ladies! But in Chengdu it is cloudy day. Early in the morning I took no.1 bus to the final station and changed to 87. This one took me to Chengdu Panda Base - the only place in China where you can see these funny animals in the big enclosures.
The ticket costs 58 yuans, but seniors over 60 has 50% discount. You have to be early, since later, after big bamboo breakfast the pandas go sleep! I was on time for good pictures and had a lot of fun. Do you know that they have also red pandas? But they are completly different...
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Mar 06, 2016 09:00 PM Chengdu back to front
I have been here last time like 15 years ago, before climbing Emeishan. Today I had good opportunity to refresh memories and to see the new places. Once a week staff from my Mix hostel offers free walking tour. I signed for and we started at 10 am. The only advantage of this tour wast that they took me to the hard-to-find back alley where is hidden mini local market for fruits, vegies and ready to eat food. This was great to see how they sell, buy, shout.
Then we went to the Wenshu Monastery - largesf and most important Buddhist monastery in Chengdu. Entry is free and the local people are coming to practice here. It is the must if you are in Chengdu since the city hasn't more such a places. Little charming Park is nearby.
Then I said goodbye to the rest of the group and.. started lonely walk south - to the central Tianfu square. I was lucky to find in the side allet the little barber shop. O yes, I am on my trail already more then 2 months so it is time for the haircut. Maestro de barbiere wanted initially 25 yuan, but finally he did it for 10 :) When I arrived to Tianfu square to be photographed with Chairman Mao I had already new outlook - see the picture...
Mr Mao is doing well, like 15 years ago. But more police forces around. There are new skyscrapers around the Tianfu, a lot of flowers, but in the weekday not too much people. I was walking onward to the People's Park where since morning local amateurs are playing, singing, dancing. For the stranger it is great opportunity to see elements of the culture, but also their everyday life e.g. licensed ear cleaners.
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Mar 05, 2016 09:00 PM Chengdu foggy, Chengdu smoggy...
Chengdu, the capital city of Sichuan province has 4 millions inhabitants. Here I am! The last expensive way to get from the airport to the city is to take the air shuttle bus no.1 in front of the terminal 2 (10 yuan) and go to the gast stop at Mishun hotel. Then change to the subway line 1 and go anywhere. SybwY and buses in Chengdu cost already 2 yuan per ride. The subway impressed me - very modern, with glass doors to the train, but the number of English subtitles is miserable... I disembarked at Wenshu and took a 20 min walk to MIX hostel. It is well-organized institution, but a little cramp. Single with shared bath costs here 80 yuan, but they did not mentioned that the bath is upstairs. So I am walking now up and down. Bring your towel - they do not provide them even to the private rooms!
It is already spring here - warm days. But as in such a big city I suffer a lot of smog. In the afternoon I found the big department store. I found there bread (5,80 for 450g loaf) eggs for 6 jao each and other eatable goods. But be careful - the price on display is not for 1 kilo but for 500 g! That's how the want to attract the buyers. Capitalism is already also in China...
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Mar 04, 2016 09:00 PM Jade Mountain Monastery
Can you imagine? Being in China in the traditional Chinese mansion, enjoying cherry tree in blossom I was listening to the tunes of my favoelomployeeseomposer – Chopin! My hosts have a huge collection of several thousands of CDs. They wanted to make me happy… Thank you! It is Saturday – free day today. After Chinese breakfast under thegcherry tree (little boiled bread balls filled with peanut and sesame) Julia & David decided to go with me to the bottom of Yulong mountain to show me traditional village of Naxi people living around Lijiang. They built their houses using mud and stone. The village still looks like centuries ago. Finally they left me at the Tibetan Monastery of the Red Hat sect. The name is very poetic: Jade Peak Monastery. In the gate they wanted me to pay 80 juan entry fee. I was staing there almost an hour looking at the people going through. More then 150 people passed through the gate. Nobody was controlled and asked to buy the ticket. Only me, because I look like the foreigner! That’s discrimination!
But I entered monastery anyway – to see there praying halls and famous Sacred tree of 10000 camelia flowers. I am not sure if there are 10000 flowers but it is the fact that the tree is more the 500 years old. It was saved during the Cultural Revolution by the monk, who risking his life was bringing the water to keep it alive. His portrait is there on display.
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Mar 03, 2016 09:00 PM Cherry Lodge in Lijiang
They offer daily direct bus from Tiger Leaping Gorge to Lijiang. It will cost you 55 yuans and on the way it is worth to have a seat on the left side of the bus for the nice views of the snowy mountains.
In Lijiang I decided to stay in Cherry Inn. Since the address was unclear (that's China!) I asked somebody to make the telephone call and they were so nice to come and pick me up. Before we arrived to their place I recognized that it is some 6 kms from the main attractions of the historic city. Uuuuu! But I changed my mind when I saw traditional Chinese mansion with a cherries blossoming in the courtyard.
In addition they offer free drop off in the city. English is spoken and the hosts have the deep knowlege about local culture. Great place to fee local style of life! And in the morning you will see the sun rising over the mountains right from your window!
Lijiang is one of the most interesting places in Yunan province. Naxi people live here and they preserve their customs and culture. The complex of the old town is now on the list of UNESCO World Heritage. Imagine kilometers of narrow, cocobbled streets, stone bridges on the channels bringing water from the mountains and wooden, beautifully carved houses.
They charge hefty 80 yuans for the entrance to the old city, but if will come early you have a chance to buy for this money two good dinners :)
The sun was strong and I was wandering 3 or 4 hours in this fascinating labirynth looking like the silversmiths make their rings, like they produce local sweets and how the pretty ladies pose for the pictures in the national costumes. Another great day!
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Mar 02, 2016 09:00 PM Hiking the Tiger Gorge
Chinese legend says that desperated tiger escaping the hunter jumped through the rough Jinsha river at the place where it is only 25 m wide. In addition the huge boulder lies here in the middle of the river (they call it Tiger Stone). Now it is the main tourist attraction. Buses full of Chinese tourists are coming here - to the place called Upper Rapids. It is close to the main road in Qiaotou... The place offers great view, but to be closer to the river you have to take the solid stairs - about 200 m down. Few tourists decide to go down the gorge to see middle and lower rapids. I did. There is a nice mountain road sneaking some 300 mabove the river offering many great views and the traffic on this segment is minimal. Ambitious people took the trail - path going above the road, but this sulution offers rather the views og the surrounding peaks and walls then the views of the river. It took me full day to walk from the Upper Rapids to the lower ones where I live in Tibet GH. But what a day!
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