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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Mar 01, 2016 09:00 PM Tiger Leaping Gorge
Do you like the marvels of the nature? This is the place for you!
It took me 2 hours and 35 yuans for bus ticket to get from Shangri La to the little village of Qiatou. Then I made a call to the chosen Tibet Guest house and 30 minutes later we were driving to the gorge. At the beginning we stopped at the nat. Park desk and I was forced to pay 65 yuan entry fee. :( plus 20 yuans for minibus transfer to the guesthouse.
Tiger Leaping Gorge has an opinion to be one of the most deep and picturesque gorges in the world. It is 16 kms long. Since few years there is paved mountain road going along the Jinsha River some 200-300 above. Tibet Guest House (booked via booking.com) was very good choice. Very nice location - facing the gorge and huge mountain. Completly empty before the season, reliable staff. And traditional Tibetan architecture with lovely terrace and verandah.
As for such attractive lacation the price for the room is very reasonable: 50 yuans for upstairs room with shared bath or 100 for downstairs ensuite. It is only 2000 m above sea level here, I took a breath and go for my first walk - to the end of the gorge. It took me 2 hours each way, up and down, but the views were great.
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Feb 29, 2016 09:00 PM Little Potala?
On the outskirts of Shangri La, hidden in the side valley there is Tibetan monastery of Sumtseling. To get there you have to board city bus no 3 (only 1 yuan). There will be surprise at the end of the route: the bus will stop at the big building, security guy will enter and they will take all tourists off. The bus will go onward to monastery with the local people...
You have to buy ticket in the big building for hefty 150 yuan, then on the other side of the building you will board specian tourist bus and it will take you to the monastery gate. I was very much impressed when I saw Sumtselling for the first time.
In front of the monastery there is little lake - you can walk around in 40 minutes enjoying the reflection. I cross the gate, then there are long stairs up to the main terrace, quite an effort on the level of 3200 m.
On the main terrace the monks were conducting ceremonies blowing horns and making offerings - what an interesting event - they allowed to take pictures (forbidden inside the temples).
I spent more the 2 hours visiting the temples one by one. Can you imagine 4-strey high statue of Tsongkhapa?
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Feb 28, 2016 09:00 PM The mythic Shangri La
Do you know the "Lost horizon"? Or the black & white movie based on this story? It is the fiction, but who didn't dream about the isolated from the world valley of happiness where the people live 120 years and more? Here they came to the conclusion that the valley around the town of Zhondian looks most like Shangri La and... changed the city name to Shangri La. For commercial reason of course. :) Here I am!
I stay in Shangri La in the old mansion - old city area. Just 200 m up o the hill there is Temple of the 100 Chicken. Funny name - isn't it? After the big fire of 2014 they are now restoring shops, stylish restaurants, guest houses. I am on the level 2300 m so it was not easy to climb tge stairs to the temple. But it is worth - not only for two ornate temple buildings but also for the unusual prayer wheel some 15 m high - I didn't see such a huge wheel before.
Nights are very cold and the only good think is that they provide electric blankets. Sorry, beds are Very hard. After days of rice and noodles I found round the corner little Tibetan bakery - smaller bread costs 10 y, big one - 20 y. Bon apetit!
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Feb 27, 2016 09:00 PM 3600 m above sea level
Deqin, China. The doorstep of Tibet. You can see many people in Tibetan clothes. Early in the morning I start to hitchhike on Yunan-Tibet highway trying to get to Feilai Si – little Tibetan monastery, which is 10 km away. Taxi drivers wanted 40 yunas each way. I was surprised – in this remote corner of China hitchhiking is surprisingly good! First I Visited Little monastery, which lies below the highway. Nice place, but from here you cannot see the main attraction of the area: the ridge with the holy mountain Kawa Karpo. The magnificent view opens about 1 km west where they built recently many hotels. I was excited, the view is breathtaking. But they try to make a bbusiness on it. On the left side of the road they built the big terrace, put a fence, an they charge 150 y entry fee “to the national park”. Do not be stupid – take the pictures from the gate! The all range was in white – unforgettable view.
The mountain Kawa Karpo (Chinese: Meili Xue Shan) 6740 m is one of the most important sacred mountains in eastern Tibet. Kawa Karpo is part of a larger mountain range with 13 prominent summits. The mountain range has the name Taizi Shisan Feng (Mountain range of the 13 princesses). The highest peak, which is also named after the mountain god Kagebo, is seen as a perfect pyramid from many sides.
An ancient pilgrim route leads around the Kawa Karpo mountain range.
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Feb 26, 2016 09:00 PM On the doorstep of Tibet
Oh, yes - this was lucky day... The morning flight departed on time. Before landing in Shangri La I had opportunity to enjoy the panoramic view of the snowy mountains. Shangri La has new air terminal in Tibetan-like style. I was running through expecting that there will be city bus waiting in front of the stylish building. Nothing like that! Expensive taxis only (40y). But there were people vith little van collecting Tibetan monk from the same flight and they offer me free lift to the bus station. It took us about 20 minutes to cross the legendary city - I will be back here!
-I want to buy the ticket to Deqin!? - no problem - the lady in the window sold me the ticket for 58 yuans. Bus is departing at 10.30... It was around zero Celsius, but lovely sun was shining when I was waiting with other passengers in the courtyard of the bus station. Well, it is China... The bus was 1,5 hours delayed, but I was still happy.
We started to climb the mountains. Yunnan - Tibet highway offers wonderful views. Now I know that this segment (Shangri La - Deqin) can be added to the most beautiful mountain roads. We were climbing to the snows... The highest pass is on the level 4292 m! On the western side of the pass even more snow, but the road was passable. What a journey for just 9 US dollars!
We reached Deqin (they pronounce [decin] after 4,5 hours. Deqin is the last settlement before the border of Tibet. It lies in the valley, but still on 3500 m above sea. Deqin has strong Tibetan flavor... I found warm room in the hotel 200 m from bus station and in the eatery nearby ordered for 9 y a plate of my favorite dumplings. No, I cannot go west into Tibet - foreigners are not allowed to travel this route, even with the local escort. And that's why so few tourists are coming via this fantastic road!
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Feb 25, 2016 09:00 PM Little detour - Kunming
Just let you know, that Chinese superpower few years ago blocked access from China to my private website - I do not know why. My new diary was accessible during last few days, but today I cannot connect to it, so maybe the superpower decided to block also my travel log on kontynenty.net If this is true I will be able to publish there when I'll move back to Malaysia on March 9th. As you can see GS access is not blocked (yet) :)
In the morning in Chengdu aiport I saw that the only flight to Kangding was cancelled again, so my decision of rerouting was right: I bought new ticket and now I am already in Kunming/Yunan. I was here years ago so it if just a stopover. A chonce to adjust to the altitude -it is 1900 m here and I feel it. Tomorrow morning I will fly onward - close to the border of Tibet. See the Kunming airport imposing terminal on the picture.
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Feb 24, 2016 09:00 PM It is still snowing in Kangding...
Can you imagine the breakfast in the international hotel without a single piece of bread? That's China! I got rice, watered vegetable soup and a choice of boiled vegetables. Tea or coffee are not offered, spoons or forks too.
Hotel bus took us at 7.00 to the airport. I got my boarding pass, pass through security and took a long walk to the gate 136. Few people were waiting there but soon more arrived. I liked most smiling Tibetan monk - he did not know any English, but wanted so much to talk with me -see picture.
Ten minutes before scheduled departure time we got the annoucement: flight to Kangding is delayed. It is still snowing in Kangding... We were waiting an hour. They offered a box of juice and cookies. The second annoucement was the same. No flight to Kangding today!. They took us to the same hotel.
Sorry, I decided to change the plan - there is no guarantee, that it will not snowing tomorrow. I am working on the new route to Shangri La - probably via Kunming.
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Feb 23, 2016 09:00 PM First steps in China - not easy!
It was 10.30 pm when I landed in Chengdu. There were only 6 of foreigners on the plane so no line to the immigration desk. At the customs they just screen fast all the luggage, no problem! Then I changed money in the kiosk (they charge 60 yuan of commission) and I went out. A guys from the hotels were waiting there, but, sorry not for me. Well ahead I booked a room in the hotel near airport with a pick-up. Friendly Chinese student called them – just to tell me that the hotel for unknown reason cancelled my reservation. That’s China. Very poor communication with the locals… What should I do in the dark?
My next flight to Kangding was departing at 6.35 in the morning. I decided to walk to the domestic terminal 2 – some 800 m and spend few hours in the waiting room.
This was not my best night. But I survived. At 5.30 am I went to get my boarding pass, then through the security to the gate 144. Everything was nice until they aannounced that my flight -the only one to Kangding is cancelled due to the heavy snow in the destination. Just let you know thet it is the second- highest aiport in the world – it lies on the level of around 4120 m. Bad luck! But the China Eastern took all passengers to the hotel, offered meal and aaccommodation. Let’wait until tomorrow! And keep your fingers crossed, dear Friends, please!
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Feb 22, 2016 09:00 PM May I have the hot water?
It was 7 am when I was walking from the YH to the Gold Cost airport. It is walking distance. Soon I checked for Air Asia flight to Kuala Lumpur. One carry-on bag only! They have a limit of 8 kg. My backpack has more, but nobody cares... 8 hours flight ahead of me.
Airbus 330 started on time, then they distributed prepaid meals. Extra cost. Few people knows that you can ask just for the free hot water and the will bring you covered plastic cup. Just take a tea or cofee bag in your pocket and you will enjoy free hog drink... Great views of the Australian outback and the islands from the plane.
In Kuala Lumpur I am waiting 3 hours for the connection to Chengdu - China. Free internet in the airport - that's why I can send you this message: all goes well, dear Friends. I am just changing the climate :)
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Feb 21, 2016 09:00 PM Easternmost Australia
The last day of driving around Australia. We are heading north, along the coast of NSW. A lot of roadworks on the way - it is not possible to drive 100 km per hour - as it was in the other states. Pacific Highway is the motorway only in some segments - there are still long distances where it is only the ordinary road, with 50 kmph speed limit in the settlements. Is it rich Australia? I am disappointed!
In the early afternoon we reached Byron Bay -some 6 kms off the main highway. On the hilly peninsula there is a cape Byron - the easternmost point of Australian continent. Little but very nice lighthouse was built here in 1901.
There is nice, panoramic view and... 8 dollars parking fee for an hour of stay near the lighthouse. Profitable business!
In the late afternoon, after 17 days of driving around Australia I returned the car in Gold Coast airport. We drove 8860 kms in total!. Youth hostel is just nearby. I am getting ready for tomorrow's flights via KUL to China.
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