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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Apr 03, 2015 04:00 PM First I am going to bomba
No, it is nothing connected with terrorism. Bomba is a filing station - the only one on the Easter Island. It is funny, but this is the only place except the bank where you can change the money is the bank is crowded or closed like today. They are giving thr same rate like a bank -616 pesos per dollar. From bomba I went for shopping to buy some food: the bar 250g of butter costs here 1800 pesos, can of sardines - 1200 pesos, kilo of tomatoes - 1500, postcard - 300 - just to give you samples. Then laundry - it is still hot here and you are sweaty all day...
We had a nice sunset at Ahu Tahai - many tourists are coming there at this time of the day to enjoy the view.
In the late evening I attended the procession of the lights - the full moon was shining where people with a candels were going the main street of Hanga Roa from the old cemetary up to the church, singing and enjoying the atmosphere. Father Bernardo in the white plume (related to the folklore of the island) impressed me very much. We get ito the dark church to pray. It is Easter Saturday, my painted eggs (Polish tradition comes to Rapa Nui) are ready :)
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Apr 02, 2015 04:00 PM Good Friday on Easter Island
Most of the population of Rapa Nui are catholics and cebrate Good Friday before Easter Sunday. It commemorates Jesus Christ's Passion, crucifixion and death. I woke up before sunrise today (due to the strange time zone sunrise here is after 8 am). With other people we were marching to the bottom of Cerro de Las Tres Cruces - high, grassy mountain overlooking Hanga Roa.
When Father Bernardo - the only priest on the island arrived, all started to walk up singing and making stopovers for pray. It was not like in the Philippines, where tourist go to see Holywood-like production. Normal people of different age, normal feelings, nothing like a show...
On the slopes of the mountain there is no maintained path so it was not easy to climb the final, steep part. We got some rain in the meantime...
Around 11am the pilgrims reached the top of the mountain with three white crosses. Everybody was happy, smiling and enchanted by the panorama. After ceremonies I introduced myself to Father Bernardo. -Do you know that in 2016 I am going with a group of youth from Easter Island to your country? From Rapa Nui to Cracow! Welcome to Poland, dear Rapanuanos!
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Apr 01, 2015 04:00 PM Not a good time to visit Easter Island!
Yesterday on my arrival it was raining a bit but today from the morning we have beautiful sun... At the breakfast time I got bad news: the protesters block the entrances to the National Park. What is going on? When I was on this island 18 years ago less then 2000 people was living here. Now - 6000! Since long time local people ask the authorities to introduce control of the immigration to the island from continental Chile. They say that the island is overpopulated. As a result they suffer water shortages in the summer, power cut-offs. Supply ship is bringing goods three times per month, but before its arrival often there are shortages in the shops - they say. And since years they want a special law to solve the problem. Government sleeps and locals, supported by two politicians decided to protest - the tourists have no access to the most interesting places on the island. I took a long walk to the tiny port and then - along the coast east - to meet again the moais - famous stone statues staying on ahus - stone platforms or altars. Those ones around are out of the national park. Ahu Tahai and two single statues nearby are most impressive on this side of the island.
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Mar 31, 2015 04:00 PM Easter Island - Isla de Pasqua - Rapa Nui
It was 6-hours flight over the Pacific Ocean and 5 hours time change. One-per-week flight from Tahiti to Easter Island is operated by LAN Chile by old 767. The flight was full and the onboard service was poor. Perhaps they need competitor? Before I landed (second time - after 18 years) we were cruising 20 minutes around the island - they say because the birds on the runway... OK - the immigration formalities are smart but they screen all your luggage looking for fresh food, meats etc. I was "clean". The lady from the booked guesthouse were waiti g for me outside just to say that her rooms are dump after the last rain so she is "selling" me to her friend - Mr Oscar. OK. The price was the same - 40 USD per room with bath and breakfast and wi-fi connection. My room ìs in the little private house with the garden. In the garden they have 3 avocado trees and I have allowance to pick as many avocados as I want. Cheap bakery is 300 m away and they sell breads by kilo, charging 2200 pesos per kilo. 1 USD is worth 620 pesos... Baker accepted 1 dollar banknote and I had enough to eat for my first dinner on Easter Island...
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Mar 30, 2015 04:00 PM Not the same Tahiti...
The best backpacker's option for staying in Papeete is "Fare Suisse" - clean pension convenientyly located in the narrow side street (Rue Venus) on tbe edge of the center. I paid 40 euro per bed in the 3-beds dormitory with shared bath. Great thing is that in this price is included the transfer to and from the pension.
My last day on Tahiti. But it is not the same Tahiti I saw 26 years ago during my first journey around the world. You will not see here "le trucks" - open air buses converted from the trucks, full of music... Erratic city buses are instead of them... Even banknotes are different - instead of colorful, pictured notes with vahines and polynesian warriors they use since October new money - single-color and not attractive.
What remained from the old days are ROULOTTEs /not a casino roulette :)/ Believe or not but every evening one square in the central Papeete - on the coast is converted into big eatery. I saw there yesterday at least 12 roulottes - mobile kitchens installed on the trucks. At dusk people are coming herte to eat, eat big portions of the food served on the big plates. Bon apetit!
And I must mention again that Tahiti is now much more expensive. -That's what you should pay for staying in the paradise! - said my host. OK, but remember that in my opinion the paradise is now not on Tahiti - to try it you have to go to the smaller, less visited islands.
I did it and tonight I am flying out of French Polynesia - satisfied and happy to see so many remote places in the South Pacific. This was another big adventure..
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Mar 29, 2015 04:00 PM Tahiti Iti
Tahiti Island has a shape of the digit "8". One ring is twice bigger then the other and it is Tahiti Nui (Big Tahiti) - well known and developed - at least on the edges. The smaller ring is called Tahiti Iti -Little Tahiti. Few travellers know this part - it is wild and do not have ring road. Iti and Nui connects in the settlement called Taravao. My new lovely friends: Francoise and Alberto took me today by car to Tahiti Iti. There are two dead end roads. First we took the southern one going as far as Teahupoo. This part of Iti offers great surfing opportunities. But I am not a surfer so I enjoyed the landscape - deep valley ends here and local people enjoy baths in the fresh water river. Little iron bridge allows to cross the river but on the other side is path coastal only. Then we drove back to Taravao and took northern road to Tautira. This settlement locatet on little peninsula had great black-sand beach with the view of the high, green mountains. I did not expect such a beauty...
My friends took me then by narrow and bumpy road up to the Iti plateau where from another Belvedere (view point) you can enjoy the panorama of both coasts of Tahiti Nui. It is better to be here in the morning, otherwise you have the sun against you... Long, lovely day - it is good to have friends - thanks a lot Francoise and Alberto!
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Mar 28, 2015 08:00 PM Rats in the paradise :)
You are coming back to your room after the long excursion. You open the door and... you see on the floor the rat. Dead rat.... Well - our Motu Iti pension has very nice location on the coast but you have to be prepared for everything... Since the ring road goes just 10 m in the backit is better to bring earplugs with you for better sleep. I was swimming from the little jetty they have. It is hard to estimate how deep are the corals and... I hurt my leg. Nothing serious, but it is better to take double care.
At least I have interesting companions in the guesthouse: Caroline from Nederlends came to Polynesia on the sailing boat. She waxs so kind to make me a haircut. For the first time in her life - she said. And I must say that the result is very promising :) Magali from France wants to spend here 2 months, like me, she also travels on the RTW ticket and she smiles so nice... We drove again around the Moorea island by car rented by Caroline. They left me at the ferry dock - in the evening I am going back to Papeete on Tahiti. Thank you, dear ladies!
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Mar 27, 2015 08:00 PM 3,5 hours to the Belvedere in the Pacific
Moorea, French Polynesia. Practicaly the only paved road that goes to the interior of this hilly island is heading to the Belvedere - the viewpoint on the level 240 m above the ocean. I wanted to have a look too. First I was walking by the ring road to Opunohu Bay, passing Hilton hotel. Then there is marker directing you inland. This road is almost empty. Taxis, tour minibuses, rented cars - but they do not want hitchhikers. Climbing slowly the slope I entered high forest (more shade there so easier to climb), passing old marae - cult site. After 3,5 hours of walk I reached the point.
There is nice view from the little terrace of the both bays of Moorea (but kep in mind that there are in the distance) and the massive Pineapple Mountain (Mt Rotui -899 m) between them. I was lucky to get down by car - on the parking it is easier to get a lift. Back in the Cook's Bay I went to the Chinese shop (they are on every island here) to buy my daily baguette for 53 francs, a can of sardinnes for 86 and a bar 250g of butter for 242. That's backpackers diet...
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Mar 26, 2015 08:00 PM Moorea - around the island
Beautiful Moorea (sorry Tahiti!) has a ring road going along the coast. It is 60 kms long so it is hard to walk around the island in one day. Alternatively you can take expensive tour (from 50 USD) or to rent a small car for some 100 $. If you have plenty of time you can rely on erratic public bus paying 3 usd per ride. I started to walk - first to the beautiful Opunohu Bay (there are olny two such a bays on the islans) then I was hitchhiking to the west - friendly Canadians gave me a lift - thanks a lot - Calgary!. West of Moorea has stil nice, turquoise lagoon and picturesque mountains inland but is much less developed then north. There are nice catholic churches in the villages, an the life of the locals is more traditional... South is nothing special - the ring road does not go on the coast and except one bay there are no views. On the eastern - Tahitian side just before the aiport you will find great view point on the right - ocean side of the roat. Logoon, palms and Water bungalows of Sofitel hotel - worth to stop! Then you will pas through most commercial part of the road (shops, boutiques with black pearls) before entering Cook's Bay. Cpt Cook was here in 1777... the Bay -
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Mar 25, 2015 08:00 PM I am already in Pao Pao!
Three nights on the freighter... Today in the early morning we docked in Papeete in Tahiti Island. Mr cook - Remi was so kind togive methe lift by service car to the ferry terminal. I bought returm ticket for Aremiti ferry to Moorea (2320 francs with discount) and at 10 am I was already sailing to this magic island. Moorea is visible from Tahiti, but only when you will come closer you will enjoy the view of its sharp, green mountains. Papeete is crowded, noisy and poluted so most tourist escape to the nearest island of Moorea - me too! Waiting for once-a-week flight to Easter Island I decided to spend few days in Moorea. But... It is now very tourist place. Expensive hotels, lack of budget accommodation. The cheapest option is Motu Iti pension in Pao Pao. They have 15-beds dormitory (lower beds only) for 1650 CFP per night. The only problem are mosquitoes. If you will bring your mosq. Net, your food and water you will enjoy this paradise located just on the bank od the lagoon with palms and flowers around. In theory you can get here from
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