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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Mar 25, 2015 08:00 PM I am already in Pao Pao!
Three nights on the freighter... Today in the early morning we docked in Papeete in Tahiti Island. Mr cook - Remi was so kind togive methe lift by service car to the ferry terminal. I bought returm ticket for Aremiti ferry to Moorea (2320 francs with discount) and at 10 am I was already sailing to this magic island. Moorea is visible from Tahiti, but only when you will come closer you will enjoy the view of its sharp, green mountains. Papeete is crowded, noisy and poluted so most tourist escape to the nearest island of Moorea - me too! Waiting for once-a-week flight to Easter Island I decided to spend few days in Moorea. But... It is now very tourist place. Expensive hotels, lack of budget accommodation. The cheapest option is Motu Iti pension in Pao Pao. They have 15-beds dormitory (lower beds only) for 1650 CFP per night. The only problem are mosquitoes. If you will bring your mosq. Net, your food and water you will enjoy this paradise located just on the bank od the lagoon with palms and flowers around. In theory you can get here from
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Mar 25, 2015 08:00 PM part 2 Pao Pao
.... from the ferry terminal. In the theory there is a public bus (300 francs for the ride) every hour going around the island, but I was waiting for that bus today almost 3 hours. Reason: they were caryinng kids from the school. Tourist should be rich enouch to pay 3000 for taxi. It is already different paradise here! Greetings from Pao Pao! - I likecso much these twin-names!
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Message in two parts? Yes, you cannot imagine how bad is here internet. Sometimes to send to you one short message I spent hours trying, traying and trying again...
So enjoy! :)
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Mar 23, 2015 08:00 PM Saling back to Papeete....
It was 5.30 pm yesterday when they put me and my pack on the barge and we were sailing through the high waves to the drifting ship. "Tuhaa Pae" departed from Rurutu in the dark , at 7 pm. I am happy! Everything goes well again! This is not direct sail, we today made stopover on Tubuai island - that's why I can send you this message. The stopover has no influence on the price - the last expensive fare Rurutu-Papeete still costs 9000 CFP.
Now they load on the ship palets with watermelons, papayas, papelmouses and cabbage... We should depart in the afternoon.
Ship crew is very nice to me - they all know me from the previous sailing. On the departure from Rurutu I got from my hosts traditional flower garland - it smells very nice - see photo... Next message from Papeete - I believe! Thanks for keeping the fingers crossed!
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Mar 22, 2015 08:00 PM Let's pray...
The "Tuhaa Pae" ship - the only freighter serving Austral Islands is still drifting in front of the tiny Moerai port. Nobody was on the pier in the morning... I went for the Sunday service to the nice and cozy Moerai protestant church. There were the parade of the ladies hats. On Sunday the local ladies wear here colorful robes and shoes (I do not consider everyday slack as a shoe) and of course they wear big, locally-made chapeaux. They were singing strong, but without any instruments. The speach of the protestant minister in the toy was very long and in local language, no fans inside, so it was very very hot. But it was still interesting event to see.
I do not know if I will depart aboard "Tuhaa Pae" this evening. God knows! So let's pray! :)
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Mar 21, 2015 08:00 PM 8 hours on the pier and... nothing!
First surprise was in the morning: ship arrived but due to the stormy weather it is sailing around the island looking for the best place to anchor... Wow! So it cannot dock in the little port of Moerai. -No, Moerai port is too small to accommodate the only ship who serves Austral Island. It was big enough to dock the old ship years ago, but they buit a new one- bigger!
My host Variamu took me to the Moerai pier at 10 am, ship was drifting out of the port and they just sent first barge with a container to the pier. But no crane on the pier to unload the barge!!!. The crane is broken, it will be repaired... I was waiting. Crane arrived at 2.20 pm - thanks God!
They started unloading. Next barges with goods arrived from the ship one by one. But day was to short to finish unloading and depart.
I am back in my pension in Rurutu after 8-hours waiting on the pier. Expected departure: tomorrow afternoon - if they will work (tomorrow is Sunday)
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Mar 20, 2015 08:00 PM Ship on the horizon!
The number of visitors on beautiful Rurutu is limited also by accommodation: no hotels, Rurutu lodge is closed. So you have a choice of 4 b&b, 4-6 rooms each. My "Teaumatea" offers the best level but is located far from the shops - you have to hitchhike to Moerai if you want to buy food. They offer free wi-fi internet - that's why I can send messages from such a remote place.
Peak of the tourist season is in Aug-Sep, when hunpback whales arrive here to give birth to their babies. (I saw them in Ogasawara Is. - do you remember?).
I visited city hall in the "capital" of the island asking if I can have a picture with a flag of Rurutu. -Why you want it?- monsieur secretaire general was very courious. They did not know that the flag of their island is very similar to the flag of my country - they checked it in the internet and then allowed me to take the flag down from the pole :)
Ahoy! They say that the little freighter is already on its way to Rurutu.
I hope that tomorrow I will sail away from this lovely island. Domage!
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Mar 19, 2015 08:00 PM South end of the island
Most of the Rurutu people live in the northern part of the island. There are main four villages, intitutions, churches. South remains empty, wild and beautiful... I started a day from climbing the ring road from Avera to Narui. Up and up, No pavement on the upper part, but what a views. On the pass they have coffee plantations. Along the completly empty road there are banana, lemon, guyava trees. After a pass there were steep descent to the roaring ocean.
He was so surprised that I walk the road that he left all tools on the roadside and took me to his house. Bananas, papaya, coconut appeared soon on the table. Smiling he was repeating: manger, manger!
An this was my lunch... Maururu! I took a picture of the grave of his ancestors - here they are buried near the house.
Then I was continuing further south to the nice and empty beaches of Toataratara. Imagine white, coral sand and all beach for youself!
But this was onlu half of the route. South of Rurutu is very hilly - not for bikers. I started to climb gravel road again to single houses of Pupuhi, Paparai to reach Auti at 3 p.m. - the full circle of the island was done!
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Mar 18, 2015 08:00 PM Climbing Mt Manureva on Rurutu
The highest point of Rurutu Island - Manureva rises to 385 m above sea. It is easy to get to the trailhead on the little pass on Moerai to Avera road. Then I took a little road through the forest -it was easy walk in the shade. The hardest part started at the bottom of the grassy summit - narrow and very steep path is overgrown an could be difficult to pass after rain when wet due to the mud. But is was dry today so after another 20 minutes I was already on the top. The summit is covered by bush, so to have panoramic view you have to get to the roof of the little antenna house buit there. And... I must tell you that the view of Avera Bay from Manureva is one of the best I saw during this voyage! The rest of panorama - hills covered by dense forest are also nice. Back down on the pass I took a ridge road through Pito to Domaine Atai.
No shade on this trail, so it could be a challenge. Then steep descent by 4x4 road to Auti, where I was already yesterday. The lady from the first house in the valley offered me 4 big bananas (not for money, but for 4 kisses - good price -don't youthink?) Powered-up I was able to continue walk to the Tiana Taupee cave near the beautifull beach. Locals helped me to find the way to the entrance - normally guidetake you there for 2000 francs. The grotto is some 50 meters deep with two nice pillars in the interior. Tiring but very interesting day!
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Mar 17, 2015 08:00 PM Around Rurutu Island
The ocean is thumbling all the night on the barrier reef just nearby, but I sleep well to this monotonous music. Sun is rising around 6 on the other side of the island so we eat our continental (included) breakfast in the shade, enjoying the silence of the tropical morning. Then I take my camera bag, the bottle of water and I start my walk around the island. Our host offer free bikes but only the north of Rurutu has flat roads and in general I like to walk: to stop wherever I want, to go to the local's houses and do not care about the bike... So I walk, greeting the people: ia orana! I turn to the cliff to visit "grotte Mitterand" (French president once was here). This hugo open cave in the cliff with many stalactites and solid stalagmites is worth a visit. Then I walk onward to Moerai - the sleepy island's capital. The pickup overtakes me and stops ahead: ia orana! Do you want a lift? People are lovely here... In the "city" there are three (!) Chineese shops and little market near the tiny port. They sell bananas for bunches not for pieces, but it comes to 10 francs for banana, 25 for huge papelmouse... South of the port they have medical center and school and thenthere is picturesque cliff with grottos on the upper level. I walked the ring road as far as village Auti with nice protestant church. Then started to climb the ridge to the other side of the island passing banana and taro gardens. Sweaty, 4x4 only road! No traffic at all. Village Avera on the other side of the ridge is very picturesque with nice sandy beach and jetty. Ladies in the bar refilled my water bottle (Rurutu's tape water is safe to drink!) And I started to climb the cliff road going north to Vitaria. Hardcore climb, bot the view of the Avera Bay from the cliff view point was great!
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Mar 16, 2015 08:00 PM Rurutu - island without lagoon
No ship Tubuai to Rurutu during next two weeks. One flight per week - I was lucky to get a seat. We were already seating in the turbo-prop of Air Tahiti when captain announced that the fire brigade car on Rurutu airstrip has technical problem. And our flight will probably go directly to Papeete. Wow! We turned back from runway to parking - so if anybody wants to stay in Tubuai...
Fortunately after 20 min captain got next, good message: they managed to repair the car so we can fly. After 40 min in the air I saw new island: Rurutu. Hilly, green, but practicaly with no lagoon - barrier reef is here just 20-30 m from the coast. But Rurutu has high, picturesque cliffs instead and interesting caves. .
They took me to cozy Pension Teautamatea (try to remember this name!) on the western coast. Run by friendly Welsh-Polynesian couple is located in the garden under coconut palms just 30 m from the coast. No mosquitoes! (almost). They charge 7600 CFP ber bed with two meals if you stay longer then 3 nights. Lovely, sunny weather. Another paradise discovered!
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