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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Feb 28, 2015 08:00 PM Ua Huka - quite different landscape!
Ua Huka - very different landscape!
At sunrise we found our ship entering little and narrow fjord surrounded by red mountains. This was Ua Huka island and very dangerous anchorage of Vaipaee. This island has different landscape - it is hilly, but not covered by jungle but grass and bush only. In the Vaipaee village up the valley we visited little museum listening to the ukulele & guitar music. Then pick-ups (they do not have even minibuses) took us to the cultural center in the middle of the island for to see great performance of the traditional men warrior dances. This was the best men's show on this voyage... Coastal high road took us later to Hane through few great viewpoints of the rocky coast. I think that Ua Huka has the best seascapes of the whole archipelago... Few of us attended interesting Sunday mass in Polynesian in the tiny local church. Seamen took us again in the chaloupes from the Hane beach. They are definitely not prepared for such a cases, no broken legs but this was not safe... Polynesian night on the rear deck - both the crew and passengers were performing very nice. We had a lot of fun under the stars...
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Feb 27, 2015 08:00 PM Highest tiki on the Marquesas
- Highest tiki on the Marquesas
We returned back to the Hiva Oa island, but to the other settlement called Puamau. From the little jetty pick-ups took us up to the hill covered by jungle. There we saw one more, good preserved ancient sacred site with the stone statues of tiki. The biggest one is almost 2,5 m high. Great location and few stone platforms too see. Then it was nice to take the walk down tnrough the village, passing mango and grapefruit trees. In the afternoon we landed on the deserted white beach on Tahuata island. White beaches are rare on volcanic Marquesas. I was happy to take a relaxing swim in the warm water. Then there was a problem how to get back to the beach due to strong high tide reverse waves. Wow! I did it! But the guys from the ship decided that they will evacuate us from the beach not by tender but in the big "chaloupe"... On the high waves it was real challenge to get in. They were acting like the beginners. It is hard to say that they are well organized...
But it was interesting day!
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Feb 26, 2015 08:00 PM Fatu Hiva - the beautiful...
High and wild coast. Lush green, very few settlements - that's Fatu Hiva- in my opinion the nicest of the Marquises Island. Lovely sun was shining when we landed from the barges in Omoa. Local people invited us to theis Cultural Center playing ukulele music - visitors are rare birds here and they are very happy to have guests. They prepared for us presentation how they still make tapa - traditional cloth made of bark. Now tapas are painted with patterns and sold as a souvenirs. In the torist office you can get password to check your internet box, but connection is too weak to send pictures. In the afternoon we are sailing to the other beautiful bay on the same island Virgins Bay. Since yesterday we have onboard the President of French Polynesia with its court. They are always first - where is their EGALITE?
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Feb 25, 2015 08:00 PM From Tahuata to Hiva Oa
Rainy morning. Our ship is drifting at the bottom of the high, green mountain rising just from the coast. This is smallest inhabited island of the Marquises - Tahuata. On the coast I can see the tower of the church and few houses. Vaitahu (what a name!) Is the capital of Tahuata - capital with less then 200 inhabitants... We were lucky anyway - rain stoped around 8 am and we were happy to land on the island from the barges. Local people specialise in bone carving, but such a souvenirs cost a fortune!
Just 2 hours of sailing took us to get to next, much bigger island Hiva Oa. On the old cemetary in Atuona (15 minutes climbing from The vilage) I saw again graves of famous painter Paul Gaugin an singer Jacques Brell. There is nice view from the cemetary. Down in the village there is Gaugin's museum with many copies of his paintings (they charge 500 franks entry fee)
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Feb 24, 2015 08:00 PM Ua Pou - Marquises
Stone pillars touching the clouds above the little port. Local people welcoming us with dances and their lovely songs.Flowers and kisses... In the early morning I was climbing the hill with a cross overloking the tiny settlement of Hakahau. Great views from that hill but the sun is hiden most of the time. In the afternoon we are sailing to the other port on the same island.
Later: the ocean was too rough in the afternoon and captain decided that we cannot land. Bad luck!
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Feb 23, 2015 08:00 PM Nuku Hiva hike
Largest of the Marquises Islands but still wild and undeveloped. For thesecond time after 17 yoars I see this wonderful landscape od high green mountains. In 4wd vehicle it is oossible to cross the island from the little port to the opposite side. Then I took a rather sweaty 2- hours hike to the pass with a great views of the next bay. Lovely people playing ukulele and singing in many places... Great day!
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Feb 21, 2015 08:00 PM Takapoto - what a name!
My third ship on this voyage has ambion to be the little cruise ship, so they keep cargo in the front and do not allow passengers to go there.
I stay in the cabin with 7 other persons from different countries. Five of them are ladies... The entrance is directly from the deck. Meals are good but no any choice. Since the ship has French flag the wine is also included - oh, la la!
Since the morning the ocean was rough and it was rocking quite well. With 1,5 hour delay we reached beautiful atoll of Takapoto.
Landing in the barge. When we were already in the barge 10 minutes of unexspected warm and heavy rain sprayed us very well. No roof, no escape! I am wet, wet, wet... Can you see these piles of coconut shells on the picture?
600 people live here and copra is main activity. PALMS, PALMS...
Nice church and at a community center internet works quite well. Ask locals for the password - they are very friendly.
I am going to snorkel in the lagoon (ship provides snorkeling gear for free). In the evening we are sailing further north - to the Marquises...
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Feb 20, 2015 08:00 PM My second freighter - to Marquesas!
Today I am boarding my second freighter -- "Aranui 3". Aranui has much better opinion then other, similar ships operating from Papeete to the polynesian islands. . Loop voyage is scheduled for 14 days. I should be back in Papeete on March 6th.
Internet situation en route could be difficult so again please do not panic if there will be no messages from me. That's budget traveller's life!
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Feb 19, 2015 08:00 PM Kisses from Manihi
It seems that today I am the only tourist on Manihi. The Island is very small but they kiss each other many times every day. I as a guest also have my daily allowance, which is very pleasant, because local ladies are very pretty :)
Do you want to know exactly where is Manihi? Just copy this link to your browser: http://maps.google.com/maps?q=-14.45958,-146.05814
Today I must say goodbye to Manihi because another freighter is already waiting for me in Motu Uta port in Papeete. I fly there. Mr Petero took me by boat to the next motu and then his daughter delivered me by car to the deserted airstrip. Twice a week little turbo- prop plane is arriving here to colect passengers, going to Papeete . Today there were only 6 of us... Charming lady at the plane checked my boarding pass and gave me a kiss. Is there another airport where they practice such a custom? Departing guests or family members often receive hei made of flowers. Just look at the picture... Bye-bye lovely Manihi!
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Feb 18, 2015 08:00 PM On Manihi atoll...
I spent a lovely day on the main motu of Manihi Atoll, walking around, meeting people. Chatting with them. This island with 4 little churches, school, college and post office is only about 1 km long, so you can go end to end in 20 minutes. After a day everybody knows you, and you know everybody. People are lovely, flowers around, very calm. A real paradise on the South Pacific!
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