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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Feb 19, 2015 08:00 PM Kisses from Manihi
It seems that today I am the only tourist on Manihi. The Island is very small but they kiss each other many times every day. I as a guest also have my daily allowance, which is very pleasant, because local ladies are very pretty :)
Do you want to know exactly where is Manihi? Just copy this link to your browser: http://maps.google.com/maps?q=-14.45958,-146.05814
Today I must say goodbye to Manihi because another freighter is already waiting for me in Motu Uta port in Papeete. I fly there. Mr Petero took me by boat to the next motu and then his daughter delivered me by car to the deserted airstrip. Twice a week little turbo- prop plane is arriving here to colect passengers, going to Papeete . Today there were only 6 of us... Charming lady at the plane checked my boarding pass and gave me a kiss. Is there another airport where they practice such a custom? Departing guests or family members often receive hei made of flowers. Just look at the picture... Bye-bye lovely Manihi!
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Feb 18, 2015 08:00 PM On Manihi atoll...
I spent a lovely day on the main motu of Manihi Atoll, walking around, meeting people. Chatting with them. This island with 4 little churches, school, college and post office is only about 1 km long, so you can go end to end in 20 minutes. After a day everybody knows you, and you know everybody. People are lovely, flowers around, very calm. A real paradise on the South Pacific!
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Feb 17, 2015 08:00 PM Ash Wednesday on Manihi
In the morning we found ourselves in the middle of the lagoon of the big atoll Ahe. Ahe is well populated - I saw many white dots- houses in the green of the motus surrounding big and deep lagoon. People in the small boats were aproaching our ship from different drections, buying goods directly from the ship. So we worked like a sailing shop!
It is only 2 hours sail from Ahe to the beautiful little atoll of Manihi. Here I said good bye to the ship and I must say that I did not cry after five days/four hard-core days aboard - but it was an interesting adventure.
No hotel or guesthouse here. Just at the tiny dock I found a hospitality in the private house of Mr Petero. They invited me to attend Ash Wednesday mass in the little catholic church. They were singing beautifuly. Great place, no tourists at all.
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Feb 16, 2015 08:00 PM Three beautiful atolls in one day...
Today I saw three beautiful atolls in one day: Niau, Apataki, Arutua. It was possible because theyare not far each tothe other. Ùuuù i ternet is almost dead, sorry - imagine how far I am from the well- organized world...
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Feb 15, 2015 08:00 PM Rangiroa - the biggest atoll of Tuamotus
At 6 am I recognized that ship is not rocking! We were already in the lagoon protected from the wind and ocean waves. Soon we docked in one of two settlements on Rangiroa - Ohotu. Rangiroa is the biggest atoll in Tuamotu Archip. - 80 kms long and 40 kms wide. Only northern motus are inhabited - few of them between Ototu and second settlement - Avitoru are connected by bridges. No wonder that having 6 hours to explore I decided to walk to the other village. The only, 15 kms road goes along the ocean's coast. In Avatoru there is catholic church to see with great St Mary's grotto decorated by pearl shells. If you are able to survive the heat you can camp here for just 14 USD per night. I met nice people and had opportunity to take some good pictures. Mid way between Avatoru and Ohotu there is airstrip with daily flights to PPT. Quite big amount of rich tourists fly here to dive and snorkel. Locals offer 1 hour boat rides to so called natural aquarium, where you can see plenty of fish (1000 CFP pp). But I saw yellow sharks in this transporent water even from the ship. Dolphins were jumping along for goodbye when we were sailing out of the Tiputa Passage to the ocean.
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Feb 14, 2015 08:00 PM Sailing the blue Pacific
They didn't tell me that the breakfast is served at 5 am! When I came down at 6, the table was empty - both passengers and crew have a big apetite! Patrick found for me baguette with margarine and jam. Half an hour later I saw a fish on one of the lines that we have thrown into the water. The fish was 1 m long at willbe prepared for tshould reach Mataiva - our first atoll in the early afternoon, but who knows... Since morning we are sailing through the deep blue. Only at 4.30 pmI saw the land on the horizon. This was Mataiva - flat, green atoll has 10 kms in the diameter and only 250 inhabitants. The channels heading to the lagoon are not deep and wide enough for the ship to go inside. So our ship was drifting outside of the reef and they put me on the motorized ponton (barge) stored on the deck. Then ship's crane took us up and launched down to the water. For the first time in my life I was launched in the boat by crane... Then ponton found the way through the narrow passge in the reef and soon we landed in the dock built in the channel. We had about 2 hours before sunset to explore. Not much to see... There is a little church. Walk to the lagoon took me 10 minutes (beware of the dogs - throw coral stones if they are too agressive). Opposite motus (islands forming the atoll) were visible on the horizon. Hinano beer in the little shop costs 260 francs :) Then I crossed the bridge linking motus.It was interesting to see their coconut plantation and how they manage copra plantation and dry coconyt meat.
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Feb 13, 2015 08:00 PM My second ship - 36 years old!
Four days travel on the freighter in 6-bunk dorm including meals for just 15000 XPF - don't you think it is a good deal? They wanted me to be on the ship at 2 pm, I do not know why because depart was expected at 5 pm. Our captain appeared at 6 pm, we departed at 6.10 - that's Polynesia! "Saint Xavier Maris Stella" is very little ship. Two cabins for the passengger's cabins are located at the dead aft of the ship. The ship is allowed to carry up to 12 passengers. On this journey I am lucky to be the only passenger in the cabin... so far. On the bunks they provide only the matress so you have to bring your own sheets and pillow. Toilet is located one deck below - far away :)
Yes, they offer also deck class, but the limited space for that is jus? a floor in the roofed workshop - I do not recommend it for more than one night. Patrick - our cook
Is preparing basic meals on the little aft deck, where the gas stove is installed. Bring your own plate, big cup, spoon and fork and be prepared for a disputable level of hygiene!
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Feb 12, 2015 08:00 PM Tahiti - second feral Friday 13th
I am once again on legendary Tahiti. Flowers in the hair of beautiful ladies. Lush vegetation. Rainy season - heat and few showers from the sky each day. VERY exspensive place! One hours of internet costs 5 USD - no mercy! In the tourist office in the theory guests have 30 minutes free, but it this connection is broken. I was running in the heat many hours to get info about freighters and flights to the little islands. From marine companies (4 of them) to tourist office and airlines, and back, and again - terrible work - they are unpredictible! Got it! It seems that tomorrow I will board the first freighter, St Xavier Maris Stella - heading to 7 islands of Tuamotu archipelago. I hope that ocean will be calm :)
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Feb 12, 2015 08:00 PM First feral Friday 13th - flying via New Zealand
Not so feral day :) First flight on LAN to Auckland vith very good service. Then old 767 of Air NZ. We landed in PPT at 1 am an this was again 13th - beginning of the second Friday 13th!
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Feb 11, 2015 08:00 PM Sydney - getting ready for the big jump..
The ship docked opposite the Sydney Opera House at 7 am and they wanted us go get out as soon as possible. No passport control, but you have to fill up arrival card and go to give it to the officer staying at the door. They do not search or x-ray the luggage. You know what I mean... :) Then you have only 400 m to walk to the suburban train station Circular Quai. From platform 1 there is great farewell view of the ship and Harbor Bridge. (See the picture) It is possible to take from this station a train to the airport, but since I have a flight tomorrow morning I was happy to spend the evening with my friends. Tomorrow will be critical day - I am flying first to Auckland / New Zealand and then onward - to Tahiti
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