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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Apr 23, 2014 04:00 PM Praia on Cabo Verde...
At sunrise we reached our first port on this jouney - Praia on Cabo Verde Archipelago. This was my third time on the island of Santiago but I found a new, extiting place to visit. All fellow passengers went directly to the city (no tourist info at the port gate but the herd of taxi drivers charging 10 dollars or so for 2-kms ride). I did not. It was early morning and just nearby the gate I found the lively fish market full of black people (this is already Africa!) selling, cutting and packing fresh fish of many colors and size. This was for me the highlite of the day. Then I refreshed my memories in old Plateau quarter (visiting fruit an vege market). It is hard to find internet in Praia, but let you know, that down in Fazenda quater they have more then 20 computers available for free in Biblioteca Nacional. The only problem was that they are closing at 12, so come early! Public mircobus took me for just 80 escudos (1USD=76 esc) to Cidade Velha - UNESCO World Heritage - 25 minutes ride.
This was the first colonial settlement on Cabo Verde. Now it is little, picturesque village with a fort on the hill (entry 500 esc) - great views! I returned to the ship on time - we sailed out at 5 pm...
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Apr 22, 2014 04:00 PM Celebration in the ocean
In Poland the old generation celebrate rather the nameday (the day of the saint patron) then the birthday. And it is St Wojciech's day today! I celebrated it already in the air, but never on the sea - in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean - far away from my family and friends. I hope to see you soon! Thank you for all your wishes sent via internet!
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Apr 21, 2014 04:00 PM What do I eat here in the ocean...
In the evening they do not offer self-service buffet. You have to go to the restaurant and wait for your order. (I do not eat at evening, so for me it is not a problem).
-No entertiment during the day. Bingo, pool music and casino only. In the evening and night the musicians play 30-45 minutes only and then they dissappear.
In the morning I am working, spending later 1 hour per day on the sundeck (sun is strong) and walking around the ship on the promenade -on deck 6 - one loop is 400 m, I think 4-5 kms per day is enough to keep me in the good shape :)hird sea day. Bright sun, ocean is smooth... This is my first time on thr ship owned by Pullmantur. The company use "second hand" ships - former Royal Caribbean or Celebrity vessels. Prices are slightly lower but let you know what you can expect:
- you will not be hungry, but they offer less meals per day then the other companies and the food choice is limited. For breakfast you will not get ANY vegetables. Enjoy meat, cheese and eggs. We have German Chef but dark "German" bread is unknown on this ship. We sail in the tropics but the icecream is available only as the dinner desert in the restaurant.
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Apr 20, 2014 04:00 PM Through the equator again...
Second day at the sea. It will take us 4 days to cross the Atlantic Ocean to Cabo Verde. TODAY around 7.30 am we crossed the equator. No celebrations, no fun, nothing... But what a pleasant surprise! The captain of the ship is from Poland! I introduced myself and we spent 1,5 hour talking about cruising and travelling. I have been Invited to the bridge to see how they operate the ship. Interesting! Our ship has capacity almost 2000 passengers. But on this journey there are only 700 passengers onboard. In the evening captain's coctail in the theatre. 99 percent of the passengers are Brazilians from the middle-class. They do not speak any foreign language. So far I did not meet here any people from Europe or North America.
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Apr 19, 2014 04:00 PM This is different ship!
Yesterday we were waiting 3 hours for check-in for the ship in the passenger terminal in Recife. It is located in the former port storage hall some 1 km north from Marco Zero marker. Fortunately there is a/c installed in the waiting room. There is also money changer so you can change the rest of your reales to dollars. This ship is sailing from Recife to Lisbon only once per year. It is an old ship. To attract the potential passengers they introduced "todo incluido - all included" policy. It means that you can order in the bars and restaurants as many drinks as you want without extra payment. I checked the card: there are 19 coctails and long drinks on the list. If you want to try each one you have to drink at least two per day! Hard work! :)
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Apr 18, 2014 04:00 PM Linda Olinda
Linda means pretty. Olinda is really linda. It is little town on the Brazilian coast, just 6 kms north from the huge Recife. Founded in 1535, during the colonial period Olinda was a capital of the Pernambuco region. Now it is one of the most beautiful colonial cities with color houses, cobbled street and ornate churches.
From Boa Viagem beach quarter there is direct bus 910 going through the center to Olinda. You pay 3.35 reales and after about half an hour you land at the bottom of the hill with elegant Carmo church on the top. Tourist office is jus opposite - we got there a free old city map and started to stroll atmospheric streets. There are manu churches but most of them are closed and abandoned. San Francisco church and monastery is the highlight with interior open and free to visitors.
Today's Olinda is the city of artists. You will see many funny murals. Near the cathedral they have also a tower with free lift to take you up so you can see the panoramic views of the historic city and Recife on the horizon.
For me Olinda is nicer (and safer) then Recife. So if you have a choice - go to the linda Olinda!
Today in the afternoon I am boarding the ship which will take me back to Europe with few stops. Internet on the ship is VERY expensive so do not worry if I will send next message after 5 or 6 days.
I hope that Atlantic Ocean will be calm - please keep your fingers crossed for that dear friends :)
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Apr 17, 2014 04:00 PM Recife -Brazil
Recife is a capital of the Brazilian state of Pernambuco. Living in the Boa Viagem quarter where is the best choice of the cheap hotels we took city bus 32 (2,15 reales) to get to the center. Like in Venice or St Petersburg it is located on the river' islands connected by the bridges. Regarding safety Recife has even worse opinion then Belem. You will see many people sleeping on the streets. Beggars too. But it is Good Friday today. Little traffic, empty streets.
Old customs house in the old town is nice. Then we registered Marco Zero (km 0) plaque and ornate houses of 19th century sugar barons around. Plaza Republica with the imposing courthouse is worth to see. Unfortunatele famous Golden Chapel is under restauration now. There are many old churches, but most of them are closed.
It was 32 deg Celsius and very humid today but no rain at all. In such conditions after walking few hours in the sun it is a real pleasure to return to the a/c room and take a shower.
Let you know that even cheap hotels in Brazilian Nordeste have solid breakfast included in the room rate. You have a chance to try typical Brazilian dishes like yam, sweet potatoes, tapioca pancakes or exotic fruits. The hungry backpacker can eat as much as he can and survive after such a breakfast till the evening :)
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Apr 16, 2014 04:00 PM Southern coast of Noronha...
For the last time (I believe) I get up before sunrise to catch the weak internet connection. Yesterday I took the walk along the southern coast of the island. At Sueste Beach - the first one I visited they have control point to check if you paid those 150 reales entry fee to the National Park (once you pay it is valid up to 10 days). This is nice place to snorkel but if you do not snorkel this wide beach is worth only to take a picture through the fence :)
Some 30 m before control point starts very muddy trail to the Praia Leao - Lion's Beach. After rain it is the hell - bring your hiking boots to survive!. Once after half an hour you will reach the parking above the beach you will take a breath - wow! What a view! Praia Leao is no.2 on the list of most beautiful Brazilian beaches. I agree. But to get down to the sand you have to slide down the miserable mud and stone path - it is shame again on the local authorities - they charge a lot of money for the stay on the island but it probablu goes to the pokets of the corrupted clerks...
On the south coast I found one more place definitely worth to be for the view of the rocky islands - remains of the Forte Sao Joaquin!
Bad luck... In Atalaia my video camera got a spray of the salt water and does not work properly. But few hours of recording is done!
Today in the afternoon we will take a little turbo-prop plane to Recife on the continent. I do hope that internet will be better there...
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Apr 15, 2014 04:00 PM In the paradise it rains too...
On our day 4 on Fernando de Noronha we met here first non-Brazilian... Very few foreigners are coming here. Brazilians know the place well and for many of them the stay on Noronha is a dream and the holiday of the lifetime...
Yesterday we took a walk to the Atalaia Bay, famous for its tidal pool. Access is limited so two days before you have to sign up at Visitors Center for the specific time and date. Don't believe that you need for the tour and guides. Just walk like me to Vila do Trinta - 2 kms and continue 400 m on muddy road to the park gate. Here you will get instruction and you can rent for 15 reales snorkel, mask and vest to float in the pool. Then it is 1500 m walk on the very bad trail: mud, stones - this is shame on the Park authorities. Once on the beach you will see at the low tide the pool: some 60 m long and no more then 1 m deep. At low tide it is separated from the ocean by the natural stone barrier keeping some fish in. Yes, I was floating there. I saw some 20 of fish and poor coral on the rocks. Well - if you snorkel for the first time it could be attraction. But sorry, for me it is only the tourist trap - not worth walking through such a mud! :)
It was raining all the night. In our room we have water on the floor. It is wet paradise now. Not for a long time, I believe.
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Apr 14, 2014 04:00 PM The most beautiful beach?
I write again before sunrise, not sure If I will be able to upload the text - internet on Noronha is miserable...
Nobody will tell you that but at the low tide it is possible to hike along the beautiful beaches on the northern coast of Fernando de Noronha.
Check the tide schedule first! Yesterday we were lucky to start one hour before the lowest tide. First beach was a Praia Boldro with a great viewpoint on the cliff. Maps provided by the Nat Park are poor, so let you know that tiny path goes down from Mirante (viewpoint) Boldro down to the beach. Then hiking through the coastal rocks you can get to the Americano beach and onwad to Praia Bode. All were beautliful and completly empty... Then Cacimba do Padre with two high coastal islands -Two Brothers - for me maybe the nicest of them.
A short path goes from Padre to Baia dos Porcos - Pig's Bay. This one dissappointed me. Then - no way - yuo must get back to Padre an go inland by gravel road more then 1km to Sancho Bay. Praia Sancho in no.1 on the list of Brazilian beachest. Seen from the 100-meter cliff it is really impressive -wide an with beautiful colors of the water, sand, black roocks, pink cliff. I was swiming there - like in the paradise...
We continued walk on the cliff to Dolphins Bay. To late to see many dolphins - morning is recommended.
Very tiring day in the tropical heat and sun, but what a views!
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