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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Apr 03, 2014 04:00 PM Riverboat to Belem
I do not know how they can navigate in the night without radar and any navigation lights on the islands. In the morning I recognized that we are sailing another channel, passing other boats from time to time. The knowledge of English is zero. I tried to ask another Brazilian passengers about expected time of arrival. Who knows...
30 deg Celsius and extreme high humidity... You are all the time sweaty, even without any effort!
In the midday we reached a huge riverarm with the port accommodating big sea vessels. Not, it is not Belem yet! ... and we jumped to the next narrow channel framed by the tropical green on both sides. At 1 pm I saw in the distance the skycrapers of Belem. Great contrast! The jungle in the channel and a huge 1,4 mln people city just nearby... We disembarked at the little dock in the old town. I as happy to find my Residencia BB pension. It is time for the rest, the solid shower and loundry!
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Apr 02, 2014 04:00 PM Through the Amazon' Delta
To get from Macapa to the nearest big city and transport hub -Belem you have to cross huge delta of Amazon River. There are expensive planes (340 reales daytime flight) and boats whare you pay 100 for the hammock space and 170 for the bunk in crampy cabin.
I decided to go by boat because I want to see more. The name of the boat is Almirante do Mar. They say that departure time will be 9 am.
But the boats do not start from Macapa, but from Santana - some 40 kms away. I took the city bus (2,35 reales) to get there. Stressing journy for me: I did not expect that it will take almost an hour and you still have about 1 km to walk to "porto". At 8.50 I saw my ship crossing the port gate: little, rusty and dirty. Similar to the one I once sailed on Upper Amazon Brazil to Peru.
We departed with the solid delay, but it should not be the rule...
For me it was great adventure: the route took us to the hunderesd of channels, rivers, bays and lakes. We sailed close enough to the coast to appreciate the lush rainforest and to see the houses on the poles and people living there. In the evening I enjoyed a moon and stars shining above me and reflecting in the water.
I should advise: bring you food and drink with you: the canteen on the upper deck is expensive!
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Apr 01, 2014 04:00 PM Macapa on the equator
How many times did I cross the equator by foot? Ecuador, Sao Tome, Uganda, Indonesia... Now I can add also Brazil. Equator cross here the town of Macapa, where I stay. They built a monument called Marco Zero - a kind of an obelisk. I went there today to take the pictures. The place was empty - it is very far from the beaten tracks!
But number one in Macapa is of course the Amazon River. City lies on the northern arm of Amazon' delta. It is so wide that it is hard to see the other side! The old fort built in the colonial time on the bank of the river is the main historic landmark of Amapa State of Brazil.
Close to the fort I found the Banco Central do Brazil branch who change currencies. I expected to get there the official rate of change. Just let you know: I spent
There 2 hours politely waiting and explaining. After 2 hours the finally issued the document of exchange:
392 reales for 150 euro. According to todays rate it
should be 465 reales. I said thank you and went to the ?5money changers - they give 450, so do not ever think to go to this buocratic institution - it is the waste of time and money...
Preamar Travel Agency opposite to the bank is the only one who sales tickets for the riveboats departing to Belem on the other side of Amazon Delta. I have the ticket and I hope to sail tomorrow!
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Mar 31, 2014 04:00 PM 600 kms to the equator...
At the moment there are two buses per day from Oiapoque on Guyana border to the world. Means to Macapa. No other road. At the rainy season sometimes there is no bus at all or you must share 4WD vehicle. I am lucky - bus goes today, ticket for 600 kms journey costs 92 reals! I made a choice of the bus departing in the middle of the day to see more at daylight (the other departs in the evening) they said it will be around 12 hours driving.
some 20 kms after Oiapoque pavement on the road ends and onward it is 5 hours drive on the red, muddy road through the lush jungle. It rains time to time. The mud is slippery and you go all the time hill to hill: up and down. Very emotional ride! Real outback - no settlements, only few fazendas with cattle. Before dusk we reached again paved road and continued to Macapa. It was after midnight when I disembarked bus in rodoviaria - bus station located on the outskirts of the town. Motocycle taxi was the only way to go to the center. I got a bed.
Is it true that I am again on the equator?
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Mar 30, 2014 04:00 PM Where Brazil begins...
Imagine red, sandy streets full of holes. Heat, dust, and high humidity. This is Oiapoque, for many years the northernmost township of Brazil. It looks like real frontier town. But the people smile here - not like in the French Guyana.
And I found in this exotic landscape a real jewel - it is small Floresta Hotel located on the riverfont. I stay there paying just 70 reales for a/c room with full breakfast. In the reception I found charming Melissa who speaks fluent English and is very helpful (I am not strong in Portugeese).
In the bank there is always long line but finally I recognized that this branch does not change money! And the mafia of money changers pays only 2,90 for 1 euro (official rate is 3,12). That´s the charm of the outback!
You can see many so called hotels here. Inside there are color ladies waiting for the one-night, paying partner from the other side of the border...
Who knows about river Oiapoque?? From the hotel terrace I have a great view of the river Qiapoque - It is biger and more powerful then Vistula - the biggest river of Poland. Long pirogues are sailing up and down. Some of them carry people who are mining gold in the streams - illegally. But in the town you can buy and easilily sell the gold - the price is around 67 reales per 1 g.
Tomorrow I plan to go south - to the equator by the only, muddy road. They say it is 600 kms and it will take 11-12 hours. New adventure awaits me! Keepyour fingers crossed please!
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Mar 30, 2014 04:00 PM Where Brazil begins...
Imagine red, sandy streets full of holes. Heat, dust, and humidity. This is Oiapoque, for many years the northernmost township of Brazil. It looks like real frontier town. But the people smile here - not like in the French Guyana.
And I found in this exotic landscape a real jewel - it is Floresta Hotel located on the riverfont, where I stay paying just 70 reales ror a/c room with full breakfast. Inthe reception I found charming Melissa who speaks fluent English and is very helpful (I am not strong in Portugeese).
In the bank there is long line but finally I recognized that this branch does not change money! A mafia of money changers pays only 2,90 for 1 euro (official rate is 3,12). That´s the charm of the outback!
You can see many here. Inside clolor ladies are waiting for the one-night, paying partner from the other side of the border...
Who knows about river Oiapoque?? From the hotel terrace I have a great view of the river Qiapoque - It is bigger and more powerful then Vistula - the biggest river of Poland. Long pirogues are sailing up and down. Some of them carry people who are mining gold in the streams - illegaly. But in the town you can buy and easily sell the gold - the price is around 67 reales per 1 g.
Tomorrow I plan to go south - to the equator by the only, muddy road. They say it is 600 kms and it will take 11-12 hours. New adventure awaits me!
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Mar 29, 2014 08:00 PM Through the jungle and big rivers...
It was the sunrise in French Guyana when I was walking through the enpty streets of Cayenne to the bus St Georges bus stop. They do not have timetable. Minibus departs when full. And this is Sunday _ few people travel.
I was lucky. A minibus was ready for departure and they had a space for me and my backpack. The 200 kms ride cost already 40 euro.
We were going through the lush jungle, crossing huge rivers, ver few settlements and not much to photograph, especiqlly when it rains. Hot, hot and humid air.
After 2 hours we stoped in the little village of Regina on the huge river. Then after the bridge there were French immigration post and 50 kms further I saw the big river Oiapoque - the border with Brazil.
St Georges is very little settlement and there is nothing to see. So I decided to cross the border.
Pirogues were waiting. You pay 5 E and you go...
THis is exciting 15 minutes ride through the big river _
you land some 5 kms upstream in the lively Brqzilian township Oiapoque. No control on arrival _ just jump from the pirogue ang go!
I have to find the police station to get my entry stqmp in the passport. This is real outback. Welcome to Brazil!!!
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Mar 28, 2014 08:00 PM Saturday market in Cayenne
Merci! French baguette cost here 0,80 euro, kilo of bananas in the market - 2 euro. Saturday market in Cayenne is colorful. Imagine all those exotic vegetables and fruits on the outdoor stalls and a crowd passing by. On the streets I see 90 percent of color skin people - only 10 % whites. Life is expensive here. Forget about complimentary internet. They have MacDonalds but without internet! Be ready to pay 3 euro per hour.
Still many colonial buildings remained here and the old city hall (hotel de ville) looks great.
It is hot - 29 deg Celsius and very humid - I have to adjust after frosty Mustang :)
I found so called bus station (bus stop on the bank of the canal without any info desk or ticket office) and tomorrow I will try to reach Brazilian border.
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Mar 27, 2014 08:00 PM Paris to Cayenne...
Bon jour! I started my day from 5-kms walk to Orly airport. French taxis are too expensive for the backpacker! The flight was on time. Inside of the wide-body airbus340 only 33 percent occupied seats. Good food, red wine and plenty of comfort. After 9 hours in the air we landed in the jungle - Cayenne airport is surrounded by the lush green and was completly empty. Few flight arrive here!
Immigrations take my passport and returned it after 10 seconds smiling? No stamps, no custom search, no worries...
Oh yes - once outside I recognized that they have no public bus to the town and taxi drivers want 36 euro for the ride. Wow!
I went to the main road and at the parking exit I met charming Creole in the car - Claudine offered me a ride to Cayenne!
French Guiane is very expensive. After studies I came to the conclusion, that the last expemsive option will be a room in Ket Tai hotel located on the edge of the center - opposite the Pompiers (Fire Brigade). They charge 49 euro per night and this is cheap!
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Mar 26, 2014 08:00 PM Gdansk to Paris...
It was hazy morning in Gdansk and l was very much afraid that LO flight to Warsaw will be delayed and I will miss the connection in Warsaw. I travel Warsaw - Paris -Cayenne on AF award ticket and for LO I have separate one. If in such a case you will miss connection they are not responsible... But thanks God we landed in Warsaw on time. Then in Warsaw I boarded French plane - the AF attendents speak already also English - not like 10 years ago! I had also a chance to refresh my French. Only half roll sandwich for lunch but 2 little bottles of vin blanc - tasty! We departed with 30 min dalay but arrived to Charles de Gaulle airport on time- how they can manage such a things?
After baggage claim I found "service de client" desk. -I have to change the airport to Orly! If you have both flights in one reservation they provide free coupon for bus transfer to Orly. Otherwise you pay hefty 23 euro.
Buses depart every 30 min just outside.
Transfer takes almost an hour and there is not much to see on the way - just the highway.
Once in Orly I took a long walk to find my inexpensive hotel. They fly to Cayenne only in gthe mornings so I have to yspend the night here.
Bonne nuit dear friends!
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