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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Mar 09, 2014 08:00 PM Tracking rhinos in Nepal
Chitwan national Park is famous for the rhinos -about 500 of them live in the park. In Sauraha you will find many agencies offering safari tours to the park. Tipical prices at the cheapest ones are: 1250 rs for one hour canoe trip plus 3h jungle wallk back to Sauraha, 1350 for half day jeep safari departing in the afternoon. They pay 95 rs per dollar at the moment. You have to add 1500 rs for your park permit - per day. So it is worth to combine two tours in one day to awoid another permit payment.
It was quite cold at 7am when I jumped into dugout canoe. There were picturesque fogg on the river. During one hour sailing I saw one crocodile and a lot of water birds. Then we disembarked on the park side(river Rapti forms the park boundary) with two obligatory guides and started our jungle walk. First I saw a nice dead deer hunted during the night by tiger (120 tigers live in the park). Sorry it was partly eaten...Then we had a chance to see big rhino.
After lunch I crossed the river again in the canoe and with 10 other travellers boarded comfy, open jeep to drive some 20 kms to the park HQ and back. On the way we were lucky to see another rhino, bears, monkeys and crocs. At the park quarters there is a crocodile nursery - paying extra 100 rs you can see them of different ages - adults are up to 6 m long. Great, sunny day!
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Mar 08, 2014 08:00 PM Where elephants walk the street...
Kathmandu and Pokhara are two main tourist destinations in Nepal. But thre is also the third - less popular: Chitwan National Park. Due to the demand they established special "tourist" bus services between them. Paying 3 dollars more you can expect slightly more comfort. Since I have long legs I thought it will be worth...
Bus departed from Pokhara on time. After some 3 hours we changed the bus at the roadside motel in Mugling. Then we turned south and I had a chance to enjoy the great views of the Kali Gandaki valley.
After 6 hours drive we landed in the little town of Sauraha - just at the gate of the park. I was surprised seeing elephants walking along the main street. I hope to ride them tomorrow or the day after...
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Mar 07, 2014 08:00 PM World Peace Pagoda
First of best wishes to all our ladies on the ocassion of their International Day! :)
After a harsh days in the high Himalaya I am already clean and relaxed. So it was a time to take a little climbing to the World Peace Pagoda overlooking Pokhara and Fewa Lake.
Big white stupa on the green ridge is easy visible from almost every place in the town. Inaugurated in 1999 was built by Japanese Buddhist.
There are two ways to get there. Taxi round trip will cost you around 1500 rs. I took the boat for rs 410 - it took me to the other side of the lake and then there was about an hour climbing the stone path through the forest. Beware of the brave monkeys and enjoy the views of all Annapurnas Range! It is important to start as early as possible because already around 11 am the highest mountains became covered by clouds - even on sunny day!
Once on the ridge you can visit the white stupa and to enjoy great panoramic views. I returned to Pokhara by road on the other side of the ridge - this takes even more then an hour...
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Mar 06, 2014 08:00 PM Back from the Upper Mustang...
Little settlement of Jomsom at 2800 m above sea is the only gateway to the Upper Mustang. Yesterrday I was walking 7 hours from Muktinath (last few hours in the snow) to reach Jomsom in the late afternoon. I spend there a night. In the morning there was no water to wash in the "Mountain view" due to frozen pipes.
But for me the main question was: will be there a flight from the tiny mountain airstrip in Jomsom to take me down from 2800 m to Pokhara at 800 m??
I was lucky today. The small 16-seater - twin otter operating this dangerous route due to the good weather turned 4-times to collect all waiting passengers. On the 20-min flight I enjoyed the view of majestic Daulaghiri.
Now, at the guest house tired, stinky, dirty but happy I am waiting for the warm water to wash... It will probably appears when they switch on the power... Welcome back to the civilised world!
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Feb 28, 2014 08:00 PM From Mustang - via satellite...
Dear Friends, on March 1st at around 1 pm my next traveller's dream came true - after several days of climbing and walking the Himalaya in the snow, low temperatures and strong winds I reached almost empty Lo Manthang - the capital of legendary Kingdom of Mustang. Great views and wonderful nature! I am so happy!...
But now it is new problem - how to come back through the snowy passes and mountain rivers. I hope I will be lucky!
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Feb 21, 2014 08:00 PM Permit to the legendary kingdom - not easy!
I got my Nepali visa on arrival in Kathmandu airport. IT is easy assuming that at the same time 3 or 4 planes will no arrive :)
So just after landing run to the arrival hall, pick from the table one A4 format visa application form and jump into the first line. Fill the form waiting and keep ready one passport photo. First desk is cashier desk : tell him how many days of stay you need. Accordingly he will ask for money: 25 $ for 15 days, 40$ for 30 days, 100 for 90. You pay, you get the receipt and he will show you second line to jump into: every period of stay has separate line - my-30 days was the longest!
It took me 40 min all toogether - I think I was lucky....
Then you go to security screening, then pick you luggage, then to bored customs... Welcome to KTM!!
But visa is not enough to go to the Kingdom of Mustang - travel agent in KTM or better-in Pokhara must obtain for you Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (easy - in half day).
Then, since the Upper Mustang is restricted area the agency providing your guide (obligatory) must apply on behalf of you for Mustang permit. This will cost you a lot... My partner arrived today (there must be minimum 2 in the group + guide) and our agent promised to arrange this permit in one day - tomorrow (Sat is holiday for some reason in Nepal, Sun-not). We will see.
What I am afraid: there are clouds on the mountains today and they say it is snowing up there. I pray for the sunny weather...
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Feb 20, 2014 08:00 PM Nepal - 27 years later...
I have been to Pokhara 27 years ago. I see many changes. More tourists, more guesthouses. But it is still inexpensive destination for the foreigner. The loaf of bread cost 120 rupees, A jar of honey (my choice) 200 rs for 500g. In the street restaurant you pay 150 rs for the portion of momo -my favourite Tibetan dumplings. Money changers offer today 97 rupees for one USD.
But there are also unpleasant surprises: the shortage of electric power -it is officialy announced: no power from 9am till 3pm and from 6pm till 11pm. This means no internet, no warm water, no laundry...That's Nepal in 21st century... But the people are lovely...
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Feb 19, 2014 08:00 PM Fish Tail Mountain
Kathmandu is noisy and polluted now. Pokhara - the second town of Nepal is much nicer. That's why I didn't stop in KTM on my way. The second point for Pokhara: from KTM you cannot see the snowy peaks. From Pokhara you see Annapurnas and even closer -the sharp pyramide of Machhapuchhre - Fish Tail Mtn - almost 7ooo m high. Third: Pokhara has beautiful Phewa Lake. Go Pokhara!
You will find a hundered or more hotels and GH to chose from. Rates are similar: 10 USD per room with bath. Plus 2 if they provide breakfast. I stay in the tiny and friendly Pushpa GH - lucky to see Fish Tail from my window - ask for room 109!
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Feb 18, 2014 08:00 PM On the way to Himalaya
Four planes one by one took me from Gdansk to Munich to Delhi to Kathmandu to Pokhara. Lucky me - no one was delayed, a two of them arrived before the schedule!
I travel only with a cabin luggage this time and maniac security guards in India and Kathmandu were not nice to me. They collected even my small screwdriver . Last segment took me along the snowy main range of HIMALAYA. Great views!
An hour before sunset I reached Pokhara at the bottom of Annapurnas. Time for the rest...
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Feb 17, 2014 08:00 PM Back to Himalaya!
When in 1987 I was for the first time in Nepal I managed not only to did famous Everest trek, but also to reach the mountain settlement of Jomsom hidden between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. I knew at this time that Jomsom is a gateway to the legendary Kingdom of Mustang, located further up - near the Tibetan border. But at that time Mustang was closed to me. Now I want to try again.
It's been many years since then, the situation has changed, the door of Mustang is slightly open now. So I set out again to the highest mountains in the world to realize one more travelers' dream. Walking trail to Lo Manthang - the capital of the Himalayan kingdom goes through the passes of altitude around 4000 meters above sea level. In the tiny villages on the trail they do not have electric power - or internet connection, of course. And I do not have such a fitness like 27 years ago when I was in the Himalaya for the first time. Will I manage that? Please - keep your fingers crossed for me!
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