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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Oct 27, 2013 08:00 PM Who knows about Lake Maninjau?
Sunny day! It is possible to see both volcanoes!
Many travelers know Lake Toba on Sumatra Island. But probably very few people try to find their way to the beautiful, but much smaller volcanic Lake Maninjau.
It lies in the former crater some 25 kms from Bukittinggi. It is possible to reach the lake by public transport but if you will find the companion it is worth to rent a car with a driver - this will allow you to visit also other places, to stop for the photos and to enjoy the scenery without rush.
That's what I did and now I can say as a queen: "Poor Toba!" - Minanjau seen from the crater rim (some 600 m above the lake) is unforgettable. Now I know that town Bukittinggi is nothing special except the market and clock tower. But the rural area around Bukittinggi is just lovely - do not stay only in this noisy town!
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Oct 26, 2013 04:00 PM Indonesia = it rains over the volcanoes!
Bukittinggi lies on the level of 903 m. But it is still in the shade of two nice volcanic cones, almost 3000m high: Merapi and Singgalang.
It was raining today the morning. But at 10 am weather improved and I decided to walk around the town. On the main Square they have tall clock tower - the symbol of the city, printed on T-shirts. Commercial street goes from the tower to the main mosque, and right behind it you will
find the stylish entrance (10000 rs fee) to the zoopark with the museum of the local Minangkabau tribe. Behind the museum there is a bridge which will allow you to cross to the former Dutch fort with some old cannons.
College students from Bukittinggi today were hunting for me - the only white tourist in the town asking if they can practice English talking with me.
Sure, you can! I was very polite and patient, but - sorry - when the third group approached me I excused myself and escaped to the "Panorama Park" to see the canyon and Japanese War Caves.
Big, ripe papaya cost here half a dollar - that's my lunch. Sorry, no rum or any substitute in the Muslim shops. Islamic behaviors seems to be very strict in Bukittingi!
The town is full of police and soldiers. Mr President will come tomorrow to open a new bridge in the countryside. I hope they will allow me to go to the province anyway!
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Oct 25, 2013 04:00 PM Crossing the equator again
There were already 5 people in the shared taxi where I boarded this suzuki for the 14-hours trip. We paid 250000 rs each. Bumpy road, holes full of water, some places suitable only for 4WD vehicles - that's how does look this part of Trans-Sumatran highway. In two points in
the middle of the nights local men were waiting to help the driver to find the way in the mud and stones (and to collect money for that service). I survived, but it was difficult night - I remember similar one from Africa - where I was going by shared taxi from Mali to Guinea Bissau.
A lot of switchbacks and bends... The morning found us already in the valley, where the road was winding between the rice fields.
At 7 am I crossed again the equator in the village of Bonjol. They built there a special gate on the road to commemorate the place (see the picture).
Before 9 am We reached Bukittinggi - crowded town located at the bottom of 3 volcanoes. I was dreaming only about the shower and the bed in the primitive "Mitra Arena" hotel, where the bugs are marching on the walls.
More - tomorrow!
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Oct 24, 2013 04:00 PM Along Lake Toba
I took a walk along the lake enjoying the views, meeting people, taking pictures. Along the roads there are many fruit stalls. It is the season for mango. Many mangoes are on display but I think they are expensive (5000 for the big one, 2000 for the small) - or maybe it is the "special price for the foreigner" :) but it is always nice to chat with the people and to have a fun - just see the picture!
I plan to go onward on Transsumatran Highway and I have a transport problem. Due to the little tourist traffic (I see very few white tourists here and the locals travel in groups) there is no public bus on this route. I was searching around and came to the conclusion that the only way to make this 500 km of mountain road to Bukittinggi will be shared taxi (250000 rs for the place) - but they depart in the evenings only. So it will be like 14 hours journey till the morning. Wish me a good night on the wheels! :)
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Oct 23, 2013 04:00 PM Lake Toba, Sumatra. Indonesia
They say that Toba is the largest volcanic Lake in the world. 100 kms long and up to 30 kms wide it lies 905 m above sea level. That's why it is little cooler here! But there is something strange regarding the shape of Toba: some 1/3 of its shape is a big island: Samosir - the home of Batak people. Toba is up to 500 m deep.
I was surprised seeing this lake for the first time because the shores of Toba are high and very picturesque. Today I took the ferry from Parapat where I live to Tuk-Tuk on Samosir island. Roads on the island are narrow and in the villages you can still see many traditional Batak houses.
I used opelet (a junk microbus) to reach the northern tip of Samosir, where they have Batak Culture Museum. For 50000 rs entry fee you can not only visit the houses and the dugout canoe of the Batak king but also enjoy the show of the Batak dances on the open air.
It was late afternoon when I took a ferry back to Parapat. Kilo of tomatoes on the bazaar cost 5000 rs (half dollar) similar is the price for the bananas. But it is extremely difficult to find the bread. They have bakery, but you must order the loaf a day before!
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Oct 22, 2013 04:00 PM A Millionaire in Medan :)
I am the millionaire again! I changed at money changer (they give slightly better rate) 100 USD to Indonesian money for the costs of my stay in Indonesia. I got 1120000 rupiah. And once again I am the millionaire. :)
Medan - the capital of Sumatra with some 2 million people living within city limits has everything that is wrong with big Asian cities: smog, traffic jams and poverty.
I am happy that the most elegant quarter of Medan with nice villas, palms and rather clean streets is called Polonia. But Polonia airport - the old airport of Medan does not operate any more.
It is worth to see at least two places in Medan: the Raya Mosque and Sultan's Palace. The palace is surrounded by garden. Can you imagine - I was interviewed there by the group of local college students. An then I enjoyed meeting with the pre-school class of local Muslim kids. They were lovely shouting "Trimakasih!"(thank you!) for goodbye - see the picture.
In the afternoon I took the rickshaw to the Amplas bus terminal. It took me almost 5 hours on the junk, dirty bus with open wide windows to cover the first part of Transsumatran Highway. Interesting but very tiring experience!
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Oct 21, 2013 04:00 PM Back to Indonesia!
Air Asia - the low-cost airline do not sell two flights on one ticket. Very smart! This means that YOU are responsible for your connection if you fly with them changing planes in Kuala Lumpur. Allow a lot of time for your conncction!
In my case they changed the schedule and first flight was little late... This was enough to miss the second flight. I was waiting more then 2 hours for the next one - to Medan - Sumatra.
Brand new airport Kuala Namu in Medan is already open. Most of nationalities pay on arrival 25 USD for the "visa on arrival" They build new rail line from airport to the center of Medan. But it goes every 2 hours, so I took the bus (15000 rs) instead of paying 80000 for the new train. Moto rickshaw took me in the dark from the bus to the hotel. Welcome to Indonesia!
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Oct 20, 2013 04:00 PM The orangs and orang - utangs...
Orang means man in local language. So I, the orang went today to see orang - utangs - men of the forest.
Sepilok rehabilitation station is one of very few places you can see orangutans - the only big apes of Asia in their natural habitat.
Sepilok lies 2,5 kms off the main Sandakan - Kota Kinabalu road - some 14 miles from Sandakan. Now you know that if you are in rush it could be just bus stopover on your route...
I stay in Sandakan so I took city bus 14 or 16 (very slow ride - allow an hour plus 20 min for waiting, ticket -3 r) and then I walked 2,5 kms in the heat...
How it is organized: orangutans are coming voluntarily twice a day (10 am and 3 pm) to the special platform in the jungle to get their desert (after the main meal taken in the wilderness) Tourist pay 30 r entry fee (plus 10 for the camera) and are allowed to enjoy the view from the distance of 15 m or so...
Great spectacle! Well, not as good as visiting gorillas in Rwanda (I did write about this for you) but also very exciting. 4 orangutans arrived (including one baby) and at the end also the family of macaques came to clear-up the rest. Great and very hot day!
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Oct 19, 2013 04:00 PM A junk bus to Sandakan...
I understood how lucky am I listening to the heavy rainstorm in the last night. So far on Borneo I had no rain! Fortunately around 7 am it cleared up and I was happy to go to the Kota Kinabalu Sunday market. It takes place just two blocks from the Backpackers Street - on Jalan Gaya. Wow! So many stalls! Exotic fruits and handicrafts. Records and T-shirts (3 for 20 r) live animals in cages (cats,dogs, rabbits, turtles...) and a crowd crawling along. Place definitely worth to see!
After two hours I took my pack and I went to the Inanam bus station. Bus to Sandakan was waiting for me - just pay 43 ringgits for the ticket and jump on! They declared that it will take us 6,5 hours to reach the destination.
It is worth to make this bus trip because it will give you the great look into the interior of Borneo. I passed again Mt Kinabalu (in clouds today) then there were lush green mountains covered by jungle. Then little farms with timber houses on the poles and huge palmoil plantations.
We made one stop for lunch and two maintenance stops in the middle of nowhere - something was wrong with the engine and transmission. It was junk bus - by the way the name of company was SIDA (do you know what does it mean in French?).
I reached Sandakan at dusk. Taxi driver left me at the Seaview Hotel instead Seafront Hotel. It is better to check twice before he will disappear. Sandakan in the colonial period was a capital of British North Borneo. It is famous for the cruel Japanese POW camp and... orang-utans living in the jungle not far from the town. I do hope to see them tomorrow!
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Oct 18, 2013 04:00 PM I am going to Miri - Miri
They have 3 different Cultural Villages in Sabah. I wanted to learn about the customs and culture and decided to see one of them.
Miri - Miri is located in the jungle 45 minutes drive from KK (that's how the locals call Kota Kinabalu). They provide microbus transport to and from but be prepared to pay hefty 160 ringgits for the shuttle, visit and lunch.
Miri-miri means "Come-come" - if you paid to come they will show you the houses of 5 main Sabah tribes: houses on the poles, tools and weapons and you can try their food (rice wine, cakes, honey...) You are greeted by warriors (their ancestors were the headhunters) and you can have a photo with them. Then there is a show with music and dances (those in Kuching - Sarawak was much better) and you are invited for lunch. It was another interesting day but very expensive experience - similar village visit costs only 60 r in Sarawak (without lunch - but my stomach was not happy after their meal...)
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