|
|
You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Oct 13, 2012 04:00 PM Bye-bye Himalaya!
It is time to say goodbye to the high mountains.
There are elegant private buses going from Shimla to New Delhi (800 rs oneway) but for me much more interesting option is the narrow-gauge train from Shimla to Kalka. It cost only 16 rupees for 6-hours trip. The problem is that you have to book your seat well in advance or if not available - to come to the station 2-3 hours ahead to get the space.
There are more then 100 tunnels on the way, great views and opportunity to socialize with the fellow Indian travellers.
I landed in Kalka at 8 pm.
Train ticket for the next stage to New Delhi (sleeper class) cost me just 125 rs (2,5 USD). Close to the station I found Amber Hotel to spend the night. And in the morning I had enough time to make a haircut in the local salon (20 rs - 40 cents)! I am in the heat...
|
Oct 12, 2012 04:00 PM Former glory of Shimla
Dear Friends. Sorry for the errors I made in my notes. You should imagine me after 12 hours on the bumpy roads writing my journal in the dark and crampy internet cafe on the dirty computer - maybe 15 years old. Forgive me, please my errors!
Today I spent another 10 hours on the Himalayan roads. Public bus took me up and down the mountains, but slowly I am loosing the high altitude. There is more of green in the landscape...
In the evening I reached Shimla on the level of "only" 2200 m. Shimla during the British colonial time was the elegant resort. And that's what I expected to see.
Forget it! Todays Shimla looks more like mountain shanty-town, crowded, noisy, with many houses of different styles squeezed on the steep slopes.
Yes, there are old British buildings, but many of them is running down. But Shimla has still better outlook than the other Indian cities: they have even garbage bins on the streets!.
I was welcomed by the hord of monkeys when I was approaaching my hotel. Accommodation in the "fancy" Shimla is more expensive then in the other Indian places. Expect to pay min. 700 rs per room (like 14 USD).
|
Oct 11, 2012 04:00 PM The road in the sky... Himalaya...
The bus from Kaza arrived already full of Tibetans. I managed to find for me some space on the driver's tool box... We started to climb up the endless switchbacks at 9.30.
Wow! View through the dirty windows were breathtaking, but no chance to photograph them...
Up and up - to the skies. Small villages on the level of 4000 m... Cross to Kinnaur Valley, where they have apple orchards!
Crossing streams and waiting while they repair this single-lane unpaved road to the skies...
Snowy peaks... - There is already China - thy say!
Dust and altitude sickness are your main enemies, if you took this challenge.
But is is unforgettable.
We reached Rekong Peo - tille village on the slope at 7 p.m. Just near bus stand I found room in the "hotel" for just 300 rs (6 USD) What a day!
|
Oct 10, 2012 04:00 PM Great Himalayan Circuit - new challenge!
It takes me 1,5 hours waiting patiently in the office in Kaza to get a permit for the border areas. I got it and now now I am ready for the new challenge - The Great Himalayan Circuit via the Spiti and Kinaur Valleys.
One local bus per day. The fare is almost nothing, but you should be ready for the heat, dust, crowd and thrilling moments on the edge...
In the afternoon I managed to visit two interesting tibetan monasteries close to Kaza:
Especially Ki Manastery is very live and offers great views of the Spiti Valley. Dankhar Monastery on the lonely hill is 1200 years old.
Just before sunset I reached Tabo village. Tabo Monastery is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
It suprised me: hard to say it is nice. But made of the mudbricks it is very old and very different.
|
Oct 09, 2012 04:00 PM High passes of the Himalaya
We started early from Manali - first climbing the bumpy road to the Rothang Pass (3978 m). Nice views. Hindi tourists are coming to the pass to touch the snow for the first time in their life! Yes there was the snoiw little temp0le and the caravans of the little horses passing by.
Then ous car started go go down in the direrction of Leh - to the Grampu junction.
We wanted to turn right to Spiti but the road was blocked by the "Raid de Himalaya" vehicles. Can you imagine? We were forced to wait there 3 hours!
Finally we started to drive to climb to the next pass. Bumpy, bumpy, oh my God! No single sheet of pavement! Crossing the streeams many times, big stones, landslides... But what a breathaking views! It was 4 pm when we reached Kunlum Pass 4551 m above sea. Picturesque chortens an praying flags. Little oxygen. Headache... But even nicer views in the Spiti Valley - on the other side of the pass.
I am in Kaza town. No electricity, 3700 m above sea, cold, dark. But what a adventure!
The owner of the cafe has the private generator so I can send you the greetings fron the remote Spiti Valley in the Himalaya!
|
Oct 08, 2012 04:00 PM My trekking boots stolen in the temple!
Manali, Indian Himalaya - now I am on the southern side of the main range...
I took the walk to the Hindi temple in the nice forest, then I climbed to the OLd Manali (they say marijuana is easy to get here) for the nice views and photos of the local life. Just 50 m away from the guesthouses there are traditional houses, cows and normal life to see.
Then, down in the New Manali I visited Tibetan Drukpa Temple. Great moment - some 60 monks of different age (from 6y old boys) were sitting in and praying. I was listening more then hour. Enchanting!
Then I recognized at the door that my shoes - my only trekking boots - dissapeared! I respect the rules and I always leave shoes before entering the temple - thousands of times on different continents.
But. Stealing in the holy place?!
I was desperate.
Monks helped me. I have new shoes. But why?
|
Oct 07, 2012 04:00 PM 12 hours in the public bus to Manali
Bye bye cozy Mc Leod Ganj! At 6.30 am I boarded public bus to Manali - they charge 450 rs for 10-hours (as they promise) journey.
Cheap! but take into account that it is local bus stopping at every corner. Dust, heat, crowd...
Landscapes will be your reward. And local people aroung (you are the only foreigner on the bus) - you are starring!
We reached Manali at the bottom of the Himalaya after 12 hours - in the dark.
Manali is a popular holiday destination for the Indian tourists. Many hotels and many offers. Ready to climb the hill for the more peaceful place - go to Old Manali!
I got the room with the mountaln view for jyst 300 rs - like 6 USD. Bit dirty, but this is the price...
|
Oct 06, 2012 04:00 PM Monkey in the window - Dharamssala
First I took the train from Jammu to Pathankot (only 42 rs for 2 hours journey) - I wanted to give my backbone the break after the bumpy roads.
Then I foud companions to share the taxi to Dharamssala.
We drove through the green valleys up and up. At the end it was serious climbing through many switchbacks to the little town in the green mountains. Dharamssala is picturesque but crowded little town. No reason to stay here - it is better to go directly to the Mc Leod Ganj - 10 kms up, where Dalailama has residence and many Tibetan refugees live.
I found a room in the Kailash hotel (650 rs with bath and great view). Can you imagine the monkey in my window - he escaped but the moment was exceptional. Many monkeys wonder around. And Mc Leod Ganj - "Upper Dharamssala" is like a piece of Tibet left in India.
Tibetan costumes on the streets, Tibetan handicraft, Tibetan faces of the people, Tibetan cuisine (at least I have my favourite momo dumplings - 4 for 10 rs).
But sorry, Dalailama left yesterday to the USA...
It is the great place even without Dalailama. Hope to show you the pictures...
|
Oct 05, 2012 04:00 PM Through the mountains to Jammu
Jammu lies down in the heat (300 m above sea only) but you have no choice to avoid it if you go further east.
I departed from Srinagar by public bus at 7.30 am and they pomise that we will reach Jammu in 10 hours.
It was another great (and very bumpy) trip across the Himalaya - withe the great views of the green ridges, valleys, rivers... But be also prepared for the dust, traffic jams on the narrow mountain roads and heat at the destination. We reached Jammu after 12 hours on the road!
In the dark it is hard too look for the accommodation but I was lucky just opposite the railway station I found a sort of new pilgrim house.
They offered a bed in the airy 20-bed dormitory for just 60 rs (slightly mor then a dollar) Ask for the clean sheets and pillow - you will get them for free giving returnable deposit... So it is still possible to sleep i India for the dollar...
Jammu on the Tawi river is not very exciting. I took in the morning a rickshaw to the top of the hill. There is well preserved fort with the temple of the goddess Kali inside. But they do not allow to climb the walls and to take the camera inside. Conclusion - not worth the effort...
|
Oct 04, 2012 04:00 PM Living on the houseboat - Kashmir
Dal Lake is famous for its houseboats. In Srinagar you will find hundreds of them. Now they are offered to the tourists.
Each house has verandah, living room, dining room and 2 bedrooms vith baths. Yes, they have weak electric power.
Well...
Never book in advance. They will charge twice or three times more. Go to the ghat, ask honest people. See first what they offer and then bargain,
I can recommend you shikara owner Nazir. You will find him at ghat 16 (Nehru Park). He will show you few houseboats - they are just on the other side of the channel. See, Bargain.
I make a choice of "Snow view" houseboat - old but clean. The owner charged 1000 rs per day without meals.
It is great thing to sit on the verandah and to enjoy the view of the lake, mountains and all shikaras passing by.
Great relax. Shikaras are like the gondolas of the East.
The only problem is if you want to go from the houseboat ashore - you will pay 20 rs each way!
|
Page:
186 187 188 189 190 191 192 193 194 195 196
|
|
|
