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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Oct 03, 2012 04:00 PM The gardens of the Great Moghuls
Crowded local buses goes along the Dal Lake. It is worth to jump on, pay 10 rs (like 1 USD) and go to Shalimar (15 kms). Jehangir - on of the Moghul Emperors built there wonderful gardens on the four terraces, facing Dal Lake. There are fountaind, plenty of flowers and old trees. It is one opf the tourist attraction of Kashmir noc - the entry fee is just 10 rs.
On the way back it is worth to stop and visit the second garden in Nishat. It is even bigger - located on teh 12 terraces... It is worth another 10 rs entry fee.
Then the local bvus took me top the center of Srinagar. Jhellum River surroud the "downtown" but is nothing more then another India's crowded and noisy city jungle!
Long walk took me to the old town to see interesting mosques - some of the made of timber... Jami Mosque is bigger than I expected. They were praying there when I was there at the end of the day...
Busy and tiring, but what a day!
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Oct 02, 2012 04:00 PM I am in the legendary Kashmir...
Why I have not been here before?
Kashmir is not a peaceful place. Fights, riots, unrest...
I was waiting for the peace. Now it looks peacefull.
Srinagar on the beautiful Dal lake was on the famous Silk Route and has great hisstory.
Surrounded by the high mountains has a balm climate and friendly inhabitants.
Picturesque shikara boats sail up and down the lake - not only with a tourists but most off all with the locals who lihe and work on the islands.
I rented shikara for an hour - 250 rs - like 5 USD and Zahir took me to the labirynth of the channels, floating gardens and houseboats.
I had a great time. Kashmir... One more dream come true...
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Oct 01, 2012 04:00 PM Full moon over Himalaya
Only one public bus per day goes through this route. Lonely Planet is outdated: it departs from Leh at 2pm and should arrive to Srinagar in Kashmir 17 rours later.
I bought a ticket for 920 rs, put bmy backpack to the roof and we departed on time. Soon I recognized that the road is paved only in the valleys - first two hours of driving. But the views of the Himalaya Mts and the canyon of the Indus river were great.
Before midnight we reached Kargil. Next part of the road - very close to the control line (the border with China) is in very poor shape - one-lane only. So they decide tat in the night cars go only to Kashmir.
Fool moon was shining showing dramatic landscape when we were driving down from the Zoji La Pass (like 3600 m above sea. And me... thanks to my mp3 I was klistening to the nocturnes of Chopin...
At 2 am we were sipping the tea at Drass polisce station. It was 7 am when we reached Srinagar - the capital of Kashmir.
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Sep 30, 2012 04:00 PM Spituk Gompa on my own...
This monastery lies only 7 kms out of Leh and I decided to go there on my own.
Early in the morning I came to the bus station. Sorry - no bus to Spituk. Local people helped me to find the taxi driver ready for the round -trip. We negotiated the price: 250 rs for the round trip with waiting at gompa. 5 USD - not bad.
Soon I was climbing the monastery steps. Uff... I am still not adjusted to the altitude!
Spituk Gompa, built in 14th century is small place with few chapels on the different levels. Monk was praying. I was the only visitor. No picture problem - I just wanted to be discrete. In the top chapel there were like 30-40 oil lamps burning - great atmosphere.
On return to Leh I spent some time in the internet cafe. They have private generator and internet is today not "down" like yesterday. Lucky me! the charge 90 rs (less then 2 USD) per hour.
I am getting ready for the mountain road to Kashmir!
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Sep 29, 2012 04:00 PM Tibetan Monasteries in the Indus Valley...
I get up early in the morning. Not only because great view of the sunrise on the mountains but also because they cut off the power soon after sunrise. In the night it is only 2-3 deg. Celsius, no heating in the room so the big cup of the hot black tea is like a dream at 6.30 am. I always carry with me my electric tea maker so if there is a power I have my tea after 10 min. If there is a power...
People in the guesthouse are ready to make a tea for you but first you have to wake them up and then you pay 10 rs for the little cup. I drink six portions like this at a time! :)
To visit the most interesting monasteries in the Indus Valley it is better to rent a car with local driver. It will cost you 1700 rs per full day. I found 3 companions and we had a grat day. Hemis Monastery is the biggest in Ladakh with interesting museum (entry 100 rs) then Thikse has a great view of the valley. We attended there the ceremonies... At the end of the day we managed to see also the palaces of Shey and Stok (not as interesting as the monasteries). Wen I returned the power was on again and I had a chance for my tea!
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Sep 28, 2012 04:00 PM In the Little Tibet
Leh - the capital of Ladakh. They call it The Little Tibet.
In the mid 19th century maharaja of Jammu conquered it an thei it was part of British colony - separated from Big Tibet. Now it is India. But all tibetan culture retained.
Nice dressing, tibetan food anf most of all - Tibetan monasteries - the gompas.
I was climbing slowly today the hill overlooking Leh where old palace of local ruler is located. Great views - high, snowy on the tops Himalaya Mts.
Down in the town cows on the streets, hords of the dogs - but they are not dangerous. I drink plenty of salted tea - as locals do.
Tommorow I plan to go to the distant gompas for the full day
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Sep 27, 2012 04:00 PM Landed in beautiful Ladakh!
Flying from Delhi to Leh it is worth to apply for the left window seat (I did not know about it) Just after the sunrise the clouds disappear and you will see great panorama of snowy peaks. You are in The Indian Himalaya!
Leh airport is deep in the valley. First impression: crystal clear air and cold, cold...
Then you feel like in the rocking boat: high altitude - you are on 3500 above sea level. Slowly, slowly, take your time. No effort!
I found companions to take a little bus to the town: 200 rs for 4 pax.
Then I got a room in Khan Manzil Guest House. It is empty. The season is over, only few tourist took the risk to come...
But good news: the mountain road to Kashmir is still open!
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Sep 26, 2012 04:00 PM From Russia with love...
India still require tourist visa to enter their country. Years ago I was receiving it on a spot and free of charge.
Now they want you to fill up electronic form, to pay like 80 USD in their embassy in Warsaw and... to come after 3 weeks to collect the passport. I came (In August), but it was still not ready. Praying, waiting extra 4 hours in the office I finally got it... Success!
It is beautiful, warm Indian Summer in Gdansk.
Early in the morning I boarded plane from Gdansk to Warsaw. Then to Sheremetyevo airport in Moscow. Surprise: having 3 hours for the connection to Delhi I got a voucher to the "Classic Lounge" on the second floor of terminal F. They offer here free pirozhky, buns, softs, tea and coffee. And free internet!
Things changed to the better...
So I can write to all of you Dear Friends from Russia with love
Wojtek
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Sep 25, 2012 04:00 PM I pack my backpack again...
I am leaving for India. The fifth time, if I'm counting well. India appears to me as a colorful and fascinating country, where every time I find a new, unknown yet areas to explore. And just a week ago, after disembarking the expedition ship ground sag under my feet. So why to rush? My journey starts from Indian Himalayas, and there tourist season just ends. I'm afraid that the snow soon will cover high passes, through which my route is charted ...
From Ladakh I plan to get to the legendary and still troubled Kashmir. And then again to the foot of the high Himalayas hoping, that the good weather will allow me to photograph the high mountain landscapes. And then I'm going to say goodbye to the mountains and visit two unknown to me eastern states of India - Orissa (Odisha) and Andhra Pradesh. News from the route I'm going to post in my travel log - if the internet will be available. Keep the fingers crossed dear friends! Thanks in advance! :)
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Sep 18, 2012 04:00 PM End of the Arctic Adventure
I am home. I happily survived all this cold, icebergs, strong icy winds. Was it worth? Yes, it was,
But due to the limited amount of the wildlife it was more like a historical voyage. And if you have a choice go first to the Antarctic!
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