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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Sep 30, 2012 04:00 PM Spituk Gompa on my own...
This monastery lies only 7 kms out of Leh and I decided to go there on my own.
Early in the morning I came to the bus station. Sorry - no bus to Spituk. Local people helped me to find the taxi driver ready for the round -trip. We negotiated the price: 250 rs for the round trip with waiting at gompa. 5 USD - not bad.
Soon I was climbing the monastery steps. Uff... I am still not adjusted to the altitude!
Spituk Gompa, built in 14th century is small place with few chapels on the different levels. Monk was praying. I was the only visitor. No picture problem - I just wanted to be discrete. In the top chapel there were like 30-40 oil lamps burning - great atmosphere.
On return to Leh I spent some time in the internet cafe. They have private generator and internet is today not "down" like yesterday. Lucky me! the charge 90 rs (less then 2 USD) per hour.
I am getting ready for the mountain road to Kashmir!
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Sep 29, 2012 04:00 PM Tibetan Monasteries in the Indus Valley...
I get up early in the morning. Not only because great view of the sunrise on the mountains but also because they cut off the power soon after sunrise. In the night it is only 2-3 deg. Celsius, no heating in the room so the big cup of the hot black tea is like a dream at 6.30 am. I always carry with me my electric tea maker so if there is a power I have my tea after 10 min. If there is a power...
People in the guesthouse are ready to make a tea for you but first you have to wake them up and then you pay 10 rs for the little cup. I drink six portions like this at a time! :)
To visit the most interesting monasteries in the Indus Valley it is better to rent a car with local driver. It will cost you 1700 rs per full day. I found 3 companions and we had a grat day. Hemis Monastery is the biggest in Ladakh with interesting museum (entry 100 rs) then Thikse has a great view of the valley. We attended there the ceremonies... At the end of the day we managed to see also the palaces of Shey and Stok (not as interesting as the monasteries). Wen I returned the power was on again and I had a chance for my tea!
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Sep 28, 2012 04:00 PM In the Little Tibet
Leh - the capital of Ladakh. They call it The Little Tibet.
In the mid 19th century maharaja of Jammu conquered it an thei it was part of British colony - separated from Big Tibet. Now it is India. But all tibetan culture retained.
Nice dressing, tibetan food anf most of all - Tibetan monasteries - the gompas.
I was climbing slowly today the hill overlooking Leh where old palace of local ruler is located. Great views - high, snowy on the tops Himalaya Mts.
Down in the town cows on the streets, hords of the dogs - but they are not dangerous. I drink plenty of salted tea - as locals do.
Tommorow I plan to go to the distant gompas for the full day
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Sep 27, 2012 04:00 PM Landed in beautiful Ladakh!
Flying from Delhi to Leh it is worth to apply for the left window seat (I did not know about it) Just after the sunrise the clouds disappear and you will see great panorama of snowy peaks. You are in The Indian Himalaya!
Leh airport is deep in the valley. First impression: crystal clear air and cold, cold...
Then you feel like in the rocking boat: high altitude - you are on 3500 above sea level. Slowly, slowly, take your time. No effort!
I found companions to take a little bus to the town: 200 rs for 4 pax.
Then I got a room in Khan Manzil Guest House. It is empty. The season is over, only few tourist took the risk to come...
But good news: the mountain road to Kashmir is still open!
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Sep 26, 2012 04:00 PM From Russia with love...
India still require tourist visa to enter their country. Years ago I was receiving it on a spot and free of charge.
Now they want you to fill up electronic form, to pay like 80 USD in their embassy in Warsaw and... to come after 3 weeks to collect the passport. I came (In August), but it was still not ready. Praying, waiting extra 4 hours in the office I finally got it... Success!
It is beautiful, warm Indian Summer in Gdansk.
Early in the morning I boarded plane from Gdansk to Warsaw. Then to Sheremetyevo airport in Moscow. Surprise: having 3 hours for the connection to Delhi I got a voucher to the "Classic Lounge" on the second floor of terminal F. They offer here free pirozhky, buns, softs, tea and coffee. And free internet!
Things changed to the better...
So I can write to all of you Dear Friends from Russia with love
Wojtek
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Sep 25, 2012 04:00 PM I pack my backpack again...
I am leaving for India. The fifth time, if I'm counting well. India appears to me as a colorful and fascinating country, where every time I find a new, unknown yet areas to explore. And just a week ago, after disembarking the expedition ship ground sag under my feet. So why to rush? My journey starts from Indian Himalayas, and there tourist season just ends. I'm afraid that the snow soon will cover high passes, through which my route is charted ...
From Ladakh I plan to get to the legendary and still troubled Kashmir. And then again to the foot of the high Himalayas hoping, that the good weather will allow me to photograph the high mountain landscapes. And then I'm going to say goodbye to the mountains and visit two unknown to me eastern states of India - Orissa (Odisha) and Andhra Pradesh. News from the route I'm going to post in my travel log - if the internet will be available. Keep the fingers crossed dear friends! Thanks in advance! :)
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Sep 18, 2012 04:00 PM End of the Arctic Adventure
I am home. I happily survived all this cold, icebergs, strong icy winds. Was it worth? Yes, it was,
But due to the limited amount of the wildlife it was more like a historical voyage. And if you have a choice go first to the Antarctic!
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Sep 17, 2012 04:00 PM Kangerlussuaq
Only 550 peple live here, but the place has nice climate - 300 sunny days per year. This is our disembarcation point.
What a surprise! At the end of the fiord there is no harbor - so we are forced to use the zodiacs for the last time to ge with our luggage ashore.
Kangerlussuaq exists becaise they have here airstrip suitable for jets to land. During the cold war Americans used it for military planes. Now it is the hub for Air Greenland. Their only airbus flies from here to Copenhagen and small planes and helicopters took arriving passengers to the countryside of Greenland.
Let you know that there is still 12 kms from the landing to the airport. Our expedition was taken there by bus. I am flying home!
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Sep 16, 2012 04:00 PM To the Sondre Storm Fiord
Some people say that it is the longest fiord in the world. It is 180 kms long. At the far end of the fiord there is small settlement of Kangerlussuaq built by Americans during WW2.
There was strong wind when we tried to find the entry to the fiord. Not easy task. But with the use of all those satelite maps and GPS our captain found it.
There are little rocky islands at the mouth of the fiord. In the fiord the wind was still heave but the views were stunning! We stayed hours on the upper deck to enjoy it and to take the pictures. Glaciers, 200-m high rocky outcrops, different color layers of the rocks. Thanks to our chef we got a hot chocolate during this part of journey. Tasty in the cold!
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Sep 15, 2012 04:00 PM Ilulissat - UNESCO World Heritage site
I have been here 14 years ago. In June I saw a lot of icebergs by little port was free of ice. Today it was full of ice chips and some bigger
pieces too - hard to believe! We were docking. I took the walk (about an hour) to Ilulissat Icefiord. They have there a glacier who produces
10 percent of the world icebergs. Recently they built comfortable boardwalk to the fiord but for the better view you have finally climb rocky hills.
Not easy because there were showers in the morning and the rocks were wet. I was politely waiting for the sun to get better pictures. And I got them!
In the afternoon we were cruising Disco Bay in the zodiacs enjoying the views of the giant icebergs. It was sunny. Just great!
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