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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Dec 06, 2011 07:00 PM A long walk to Corre Corre
I love those twin names! Do you remember my camping under the palm on Bora Bora? Or the dugout canoe sailing on Langa Langa lagoon?. Or Lapu Lapu? So how could miss Corre Corre? It is a little bay on the SE side of Statia Island. Centuries ago there were the battery. Now nobody lives there, except... wild donkeys... I saw them there, walking through the bush to the inhospitable coast. Statia has only two beaches: little one near the pier and the longer Zeelandia Beach on the Atlantic side of the island. But unfortunately you cannot swim there due to the high waves and strong currents. This is not an island for the beach lovers. But Statia offers great diving and snorkeling near the pier.
From Corre Corre I was walking onward to the botanical garden established on the south coast, There are great tropical flowers, but the garden is overgrown, so do not expect much.... It was the long walk. When I returned to my inn I recognized that there is no power -they cut-off the electricity on the whole island! You know what is means in the heat of the tropics: the fans or a/c does not work. You cannot boil the water... Uuu! We were waiting in the dark. After 5 hours they switched on... Thanks God!
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Dec 05, 2011 07:00 PM Sweaty climbing to The Quill
One end of the Sint Eustatius Island is occupied by the former volcano - The Quill - 600 m high.
Local tourist office cares about the trail to the crater rim - the signs are clear so you can do it on your own. From the town it took me two hours to get to the Panorama Point on the rim when the red light of the airport is located. 600 m up is not much, but if you add the heat and humidity it could be a little challenge. You will need hiking boots, definitely no sandals or slacks... The 20-minute final climbing from the lowest point on the rim to the Panorama Point is very steep - you have to use hands to get through.
But the view is excellent. On the trail I saw lizards, snakes (not dangerous) an plenty of birds. From the rim you can go down to the crater filled by the thick rainforest. Hard trail. I decided I have no reason to go there...
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Dec 04, 2011 07:00 PM Statia - my new island
The real name of this rocky island is Sint Eustatius. But everybody call it Statia. Statia lies close to St Maarten but there is no ferry, so I was forced to take 20-minutes Winair flight to get there.
We boarded nice, little twin-otter plane (I think last time I took such a plane on Solomon Islands - do you remember Stan?)
Nice views from the window, nobody tells you "to use any electronic equipment is forbidden!
Soon I saw Statia - my new island: two mountains rising from the sea with an airstrip in the saddle between them. The charming lady-immigration officer stamped my passport. So where am I? Statia and nearby Saba are the outpost of the Kingdom of Netherlands. Toogether with Bonaire they form now a group of "three municipalities" connected to the Dutch crown.
In the past they were all "Netherland Antilles". No longer. Aruba, Curacao and Dutch Sint Maarten ale independent "states". Should I add them to my list of the countries? What do you think?
The cheapest accommodation on Statia - "Country Inn" is just 10 minutes away from the tiny airport terminal. Turn left from the terminal, pass the fire departament and immediately turn righ to the unnamed street. Here you are! On the new island!
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Dec 03, 2011 07:00 PM French side or Dutch side?
St Maarten in the Caribbean is very tourist place. Especially when the cruise ship (or two) are docking in the Philipsburg on the Dutch side. Narrow streets of the Philipsburg are full of shops, there are casinos and restauranst... They have their color, but people like me come here not for shopping, but to feel the local lifestyle, the culture, the nature. In Philipsburg there is the old court and Methodist church to see. They have nice city beach with a row of palms and... for me two hours in Philipsburg is enough.
So I vote for the French side!
In Marigot you can find inexpensive "Fantastic Guesthouse" to stay. There is nice view of Royal Marina from their terrace and little pool. They charge 60 USD per room withs a/c and bath. If you travel au pair it is very reasonable price... The Carribean are expensive...
Saint Martin could be a good base to explore other islands in this area - they have ferries to Anguilla, Saba and St Barth...
They have their own money, but US dollar is a king here. I have been bothered by beggars asking for the quarter... But they are not very nasty... No sun today, but it is still hot. I hope it will not rain! The hurricane season is over! I believe...
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Dec 02, 2011 07:00 PM Divided island - Saint Martin
I still explore the Caribbean...
How many divided islands did you see?
Papua, Hispaniola, Timor...
Here is one more... Sint Maarten or Saint Martin. Since 1648 it is divided: partly French, partly Dutch.
I have been here years ago. Now it is more developed and has a cheap hostel - right 100 m Philippburg direction from the airport terminal. In the Crew House you can stay for 35 USD, in the Caribbean it is very low price... They are bookable via hostelworld. If there is nobody around sit on the verandah and wait. You can use their wi-fi connection the password is crewhouse123.
They do not write in the guidebooks that there is efficient share-taxis system on the island: Minibuses can take you for 2 USD from the airport (look for "Maho" sign in the window to Philippsburg and for another 2 USD from P-burg to Marigot on the French side.
No, they do not have any border control - just a sign with the flags. I love French Marigot more. See it in the picture taken from the fort. It is good to have in the best memories such a places like a little "La vie en Rose" restaurant in the Marigot square. Do you remember that song? I love it! And this tiny restaurant too! Nice to be here again...
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Dec 01, 2011 07:00 PM Sky ride on Saint Thomas
Shops, shops: alcohol, watches, diamonds... - all for the passengers of the cruise ships. Traffic congestions in the capital of the island - Charlotte Amalia. Saint Thomas is nice, but to appreciate that you have to go out of this crowd... They built recently skyway to the Paradise Point. The fare is high: 21 USD for the round trip. But they offer also some attractions on the top and your ticket is valid all day...
I was there for the first time, enjoying the view, I prefere it to the visits in the shops.
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Nov 30, 2011 07:00 PM St Croix - my new island...
I landed here for the first time. In the past this island was a posession of... Danmark. Sugar Cane industry was growing here on the basis of the slaves' work. Black workforce arrived here from Africa. I saw the forts on the coast of Ghana where they kept slaves before they were sent to St Croix.
On St Croix you can see the remains of the plantations, sugar mills and... Cruzan Rum Destillery. But the highlight of the island is the old town of Christiansted - with nice fort and many other historic buildings. They charge 3 USD entry fee.
To move around the island on the cheap use shared taxis crawling non-stop all the day between Christiansted and the second town on the island - Frideriksted. They charge 2,50 USD per ride.
Frederiksted is much smaller and sleepy place, but also has a little fort. Saint Croix belongs to the US Virgin Islands. Eastern end of St Croix island is also the easternmost point of the USA.
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Nov 29, 2011 07:00 PM Best view in the Caribbean?
I am on the island of Antigua. In the past lord Nelson built here the base of the British Fleet and also the shipyard. Worth to see, but from my previous visit I remember that I saw here great panorama - from Shirley Heights, Why not to enjoy it once more?
They will tell you that you have to rent a taxi to get there. Not necessary. For the backpacker there is much cheaper method: go to the western bus station and take the microbus no 17 - it goes to the Nelson Dockyard for just 1,50 USD. The visit will cost you 8 USD of entry fee but this covers also the Heights.
It is some 3 kms sweaty walk uphill. Try to hitchhike, but there is very little traffic... But is is definitely worth the effort - I stlill think that this is one of the nicest panoramic views I saw in the Caribbean!
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Nov 28, 2011 07:00 PM Saint Lucia - Helena of the Caribbean
People compare the beauty of this island to the beauty of the Helen of Troy... Saint Lucia is hilly, their main landmark are The Pitons - twin Volcanic peaks located on the coast. Saint Lucia was 7 times British and 7 times French... Now it is independent and people here speak mostly patois dialect - something like a broken French.
Red flags on the streets - local Labour Party celebrates the victory in the yesterday's elections.
I visited two nice fishing villages on the coast: Anse la Raye and Canaries. Then I went to the Torraill Waterfall located some 3 kms inland from Sufriere. In my opinion it is just a tourist trap. They offer the shower at the bottom of 15-m high rather weak fall...
In the capital city - Castries it is worth to see catholic cathedral. People live from the export of the bananas - mostly to UK and from tourism. But they do not smile... It is worth to know that in the piramid-like building of Alliance Francais they offer free wi-fi connection...
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Nov 27, 2011 07:00 PM Grenada - The Spice Island
It is very picturesque Island. I have been here before and I think that the port of Saint George's has one of the most picturesque locations in the Caribbean.
Grenada has spice plantations, but I decided to go to the Concord Waterfall. You can go there by taxi. But I went to the local bus station and took the minibus full of the Grenadians. They are very nice and helpful. For just 1 USD (payment in USD is welcomed) they took me via coastal road to the village of Concord.
Then it is 2,5 kms walk to the interior. Normally it is easy. But keep in mind that it goes uphill. And the temperature is around 30 deg Celsius! I did not know about that... It is sweaty but nice walk: a lot of cocoa trees, breadfruit and nutmeg around...
At the waterfall you have to pay 1 USD to get to the viewpoint. It is not much!
Concord Fall is nice! Two drops, some 30 m...
But... There is also upper Concord Fall. They say it is only 15 minutes walk on the path climbing up the river. But the path is wet and muddy. I reached first river crossing - too dangerous after heavy night rain. There are 3 river crossings on the way to the upper fall - the bridges were swept down by the high water.
I returned not so happy. Maybe you will be lucky to see also the upper Concord Fall...
Total cost of the excursion: 3 USD Grenada is beautiful!
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