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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Dec 16, 2011 07:00 PM Sunday in Berlin
I am in Berlin. Why? I plan to come back to Southern Africa soon. Namibia still require a visa... Nearest embassy is in Berlin. And.... Low cost Polish airline JetAir just opened a direct connection from Gdansk to Berlin. I took my chance to buy cheap ticket (less then 20 euro!) and to come to arrange my visa... It will be tomorrow - they open the embassy at 9 am.
Today I have the time to wonder again around the central Berlin. To see Banhof Friedrichstrasse - years ago I was crossing there the border between DDR and West Berlin... Today Berlin is more expensive: in the tourist information office near Brandenburger Tor they charge 1 euro for the tiny, one-page map of the town! Local Mc Donald restaurants in my country have free wi-fi hotspots. Not in Berlin! Finally I found one free hotspot in Sony Center on Potsdamer Platz...
2-hours ticket for the city public transport costs already 2,30 euro...
There are many Christmas markets on the streets. Probably the biggest one on Unter den Linden. I like this atmosphere...
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Dec 12, 2011 07:00 PM Flying home...
The morning was clear, and little twin-otter from St. Marteen arriver on time to pick me up... People say that the thrilling plane take-off on the short Saba runway is one of the main attractions of the island. Yes, it is!
On St Marteen I checked-in for the next flight to Newark. It was Continental/United flight. Unpleasant surprise: they asked me to pay extra 25 USD for the first piece of my checked luggage! The weight was normal! Do you know other regular airline who charge such a fee?
We landed in New York already in the evening. Terminal B of the Newark airport has wi-fi network. Initially they ask you to pay for the connection, but in the bottom of their page you will see the gift from American Express: 20 minutes of free internet - go on!
On the next day it was sunny when I landed in Warsaw. But where is the snow? No snow... The same in my Gdansk... I hope that it willbe snowy for Christmas.
Another interesting voyage is over. I already started to think about the next one... :)
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Dec 11, 2011 07:00 PM Saba - the diver's paradise
Saba Island has no beaches. But it has a great reef from the Caribbean Sea side and people say that it is one of the best places for divers. Sorry, not for me - the cost diving is hard to afford for the budget travellers. I snorkel, but on Saba to get to the snorkeling place you still have to rent a boat. I did not find anybody to share the cost. In general: Saba is expensive place. Even in my last expensive "El Momo Cottages" they add 5% of tax to my bill and 1 USD per day for the National Park.
But Saba is worth to see. It is very different to the rest of the Caribbean: you won't see here casinos, resorts, shopping malls and nightlife, but well-marked walking trails through rainforest-covered mountains.
Sorry. It is the time to pack-up and to return from the sun to the cold Europe...
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Dec 10, 2011 07:00 PM To the top of Mt Scenic
Saba Island, The summit if the highest peak - Mt Scenic - 877 m is still in the clouds but I decided to climb hoping that the visibility will improve during the day. The trailhead is on the outskirts of Windwardside. Begining was easy - stone steps through the thick rainforest, Then a long part of the path was destroyed by the works. And steps again - different size and different quality. Final climb via the left arm of the trail was extremely muddy. Nobody cares about this tiny path. I reached the summit after 2 hours of non-stop climbing, Sorry, only limited view from time to time in the little windows in the clouds.
I was waiting there half an hour but no chance for the better view, The same on the right arm of the trail which goes to the antenna tower... Bad luck! After 5 hours I returned to the cottage dirty, sweaty and tired. But it is also the adventure!
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Dec 09, 2011 07:00 PM Tropical storm and the Hell's Gate
The rain statarted in the late evening, then strong wind came to Saba Island. My little cottage is sheltered on the slope but the water came inside through the open door anyway...
Clouds, fogg and rain... Hopeless! They do not operate flights to the island during such a weather. What will be if I'll be forced to stay here longer then I plan?
In the late afternoon it cleared up a little bit. I took my cameras and started walk along the main road (here is only one road across the island built in 1938-43). It is like a hike: the views are breathtaking but practically every step you take on Saba is either up or down a hill!
Sorry, I did not have the sun for my pictures today... I went as far as Hell's Gate. :) Would you like to live in the Hell's Gate? It is the third and the last settlement on Saba. Nowadays they don't like it so the official name is Zion Hill. But the old one seems to be still more popular outside the village. There is little catholic church in the Hell's Gate. :) And the views of the coast and the tiny airport are breathtaking!
OK. Let's keep the fingers crossed for the tomorrow's weather! The trail will be slippery after heavy rain but I still want to see the island from the top!
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Dec 08, 2011 07:00 PM Emerald island in aquamarine sea...
I woke up in the middle of the night feeling that something is slowly moving through my chest. Aha! Black worm, some 7 cm long... I threw him gently through the open door and tried to seep again... No, this can happen, if you sleep in the cheapest accommodation on the tropical island... Unfortunately they do not use mosquito nets in "El Momo".
In the morning I was enchanted again by the view - high, green hills with only few white houses scattered around. Saba Island has a population of only 1400. It is formally one of three overseas "municipalities" of the Dutch Crown, but the people speak here rather English then Dutch and use rather dollar then euro or guilder.
There are only two little settlements on the island: Windwardside and The Bottom. I took the walk to the bottom. Wow! They stop the car and ask if you want a lift!
From The Bottom a long and deep canyon took me to the only port on the island. Not very picturesque, but this is the only gateway for the all supply. Daily ferry from St Marteen arrives here. But the ferry ticket costs almost the same (60 USD) like a flight, so think what will be better for you... Saba is the paradise for divers and hikers. Today the highest peak on the island was in the clouds. Mayby tomorrow the weather will be better so I will be able to hit the trail for the view!
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Dec 07, 2011 07:00 PM Saba -the rock of the Caribbean
Do you remember my stay on Niue Island called "the rock of the Polynesia"? Saba island where I am is also rising up from the sea to the level of 877 m, No beaches, Little airstip with very short runway has the opinion to be one of the hardest to land. Only little planes like twin otter can do that and I must tell you that my landing was very emotional.
Little Saba reminds me Madeira, The only road connecting airstrip with the sea jetty on the other side of the island climb up the green, lush mountains in many switchbacks to the level of 400 m.
Here, in the settlement called Windward Side I found inexpensive accommodation in the El Momo cottage. Be prepared to climb more then 50 m steps to get to the place. Fan rooms in the tropical garden have great view. Just on arrival I found 6-cm long black worm in my bed. They say these worm are not dangerous and that you have to check your bed before you go to sleep, You are in the tropical jungle! Locals call Saba "The unspoiled Queen" Tomorrow I will know more about her :)
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Dec 06, 2011 07:00 PM A long walk to Corre Corre
I love those twin names! Do you remember my camping under the palm on Bora Bora? Or the dugout canoe sailing on Langa Langa lagoon?. Or Lapu Lapu? So how could miss Corre Corre? It is a little bay on the SE side of Statia Island. Centuries ago there were the battery. Now nobody lives there, except... wild donkeys... I saw them there, walking through the bush to the inhospitable coast. Statia has only two beaches: little one near the pier and the longer Zeelandia Beach on the Atlantic side of the island. But unfortunately you cannot swim there due to the high waves and strong currents. This is not an island for the beach lovers. But Statia offers great diving and snorkeling near the pier.
From Corre Corre I was walking onward to the botanical garden established on the south coast, There are great tropical flowers, but the garden is overgrown, so do not expect much.... It was the long walk. When I returned to my inn I recognized that there is no power -they cut-off the electricity on the whole island! You know what is means in the heat of the tropics: the fans or a/c does not work. You cannot boil the water... Uuu! We were waiting in the dark. After 5 hours they switched on... Thanks God!
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Dec 05, 2011 07:00 PM Sweaty climbing to The Quill
One end of the Sint Eustatius Island is occupied by the former volcano - The Quill - 600 m high.
Local tourist office cares about the trail to the crater rim - the signs are clear so you can do it on your own. From the town it took me two hours to get to the Panorama Point on the rim when the red light of the airport is located. 600 m up is not much, but if you add the heat and humidity it could be a little challenge. You will need hiking boots, definitely no sandals or slacks... The 20-minute final climbing from the lowest point on the rim to the Panorama Point is very steep - you have to use hands to get through.
But the view is excellent. On the trail I saw lizards, snakes (not dangerous) an plenty of birds. From the rim you can go down to the crater filled by the thick rainforest. Hard trail. I decided I have no reason to go there...
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Dec 04, 2011 07:00 PM Statia - my new island
The real name of this rocky island is Sint Eustatius. But everybody call it Statia. Statia lies close to St Maarten but there is no ferry, so I was forced to take 20-minutes Winair flight to get there.
We boarded nice, little twin-otter plane (I think last time I took such a plane on Solomon Islands - do you remember Stan?)
Nice views from the window, nobody tells you "to use any electronic equipment is forbidden!
Soon I saw Statia - my new island: two mountains rising from the sea with an airstrip in the saddle between them. The charming lady-immigration officer stamped my passport. So where am I? Statia and nearby Saba are the outpost of the Kingdom of Netherlands. Toogether with Bonaire they form now a group of "three municipalities" connected to the Dutch crown.
In the past they were all "Netherland Antilles". No longer. Aruba, Curacao and Dutch Sint Maarten ale independent "states". Should I add them to my list of the countries? What do you think?
The cheapest accommodation on Statia - "Country Inn" is just 10 minutes away from the tiny airport terminal. Turn left from the terminal, pass the fire departament and immediately turn righ to the unnamed street. Here you are! On the new island!
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