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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Mar 19, 2011 07:00 PM I foundPolish church in Uganda!
Back in Uganda I found near Masindi Polish church built by the Polish refugees from Stalins's Soviet Union during the 2nd world war...
It is hard to believe that therewere almost 5000 of them living in the camp located 27 kms west of Masindi.
Sunday. I attended the mass celebrated in swahili language - as the only foreigner in this remote and nice church. Great place...
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Mar 17, 2011 07:00 PM Upper Nile River
Due to the lack of accommodation in Juba they built here on the bank of the Nile several "camps" - mostly a/c cabins and open air restaurants, where you can stay for 120 USD and more per day.
Thinking about sailing down the Nile? Yes, there are barges going down from the jetty near the Oasis camp but keep in mind that it is nor safe nor quick journey - it takes weeks to get to Kosti where next Nile bridge is located. How many of safe water and food you should take for such a journey?
Road travel to the north is also very complicated due to the landmines, destroyed, bridges and the fightings at the border areas. It seems that at the moment nobody controls the situation... There is only one relatively safe road back to the world: to Uganda....
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Mar 16, 2011 07:00 PM Boda-boda to Konyo Konyo
I like very much those "twin" names. They are funny. Do you remember Puka Puka or Lapu Lapu?
Boda boda - the motorcycle taxis are the main means of public transport in Juba. You have to agree the price before you jump on. It is 2-5 sudanneese pounds, depending on the distance.
In South Sudan they still use Sudaneese currency. In the bank or official exchange office 1 USD is worth about 3 pounds. But the money changers on the street they will give you 3,40 and more.
I took boda boda to go to Konyo Konyo market - one of the biggest in the city. It is colorful, but the supply of the goods is poor - Juba is far from the world, and everything comes via long way through Kenya and Uganda. And that's why it is more expensive! To buy western food and drinks go to JIT supermarket in Juba Town. It is expensive! I prefere to buy banana, mango and pineapple on the streets...
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Mar 15, 2011 07:00 PM Juba - the hot capital of South Sudan
Can you imagine the city of estimated 600 000 inhabitants where streets have no names? I am in Juba!
The internet is poor and ver hard available here. But the people on the dusty streets are nice and helpful, assuming they understand English...
The new country is in big demand for the educated people.
The imageof the capital is not very optimistic: bumpy side streets, piles of rubbish, lack of water... Heat!
I fight with the resident mosquitoes inmy room - the net is the must...
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Mar 14, 2011 07:00 PM Juba. I am not mzungu, I am khaladya now!
We reached border check point of Uganda at 8 am. Crowd of the cars, dust, congestions... Then there were some 8 kms to the check point of South Sudan. Again I spent a lot of time in the line with the crowd of the pushing people.
Finally I got a stamp in the passport and they registered my name and nationality on the dirty piece of paper. I am in the South Sudan!
It is different world here: Different culture, different language. They call ma - the white man - Khaladya!
We started our drive to juba and through the dirty window of the bus I saw some on the most exotic African landscapes: villages full of traditional huts, poor people waiting at the only water pump in the village, savanna...
At 3 pm I saw again the Nile River - we crossed the bridge to Juba. Welcome to the hot capital of the South Sudan!
Dirty, sweaty, tired I found accommodation in the Episcopal Church of Sudan guesthouse. They charge 50 USD for the fan room. Juba on the outskirts of the civilized world is very expensive place - the average room in the hotel or camp cost like 100 USD. Lets have a rest after all those adventures!
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Mar 13, 2011 07:00 PM 16 hours on the African bus...
(posted two days later)
Can you imagine 16-hours travel in the crowded bus going from Uganda to Juba. With crying kids, extra people staying in the aisle, luggage blocking the exit?... That's how it was...
But this is the only route going to the South Sudan.
On the Uganda side the road is paved as far as Gobu only. Then it is full of bumps, mud and big trucks...
Problably the hardest experience of this voyage...
We reached the border point at 9 am. It is real African outback... Crowds of cars, lines of the people who push you up.
Between Uganda check point and South Sudan Check poin there some 8 kms of the desetred track. Finally I got a stamp
of South Sudan in my passport. Lets go to Juba now!
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Mar 12, 2011 07:00 PM Ready for South Sudan...
I am back to the civilization, making laundry and charging batteries (In Sipi where I spent my last days there was no electricity, even in the evenings).
My visa (exactly: travel permit) is ready, so tomorrow I plan to move to the northern border of Uganda and to cross it to the South Sudan.
I experienced first rain since my arrival to Uganda. But in fact it was only 1-hour shower...
It is hard to imagine if I will have the access to the internet on the other side of the border. So please do not panic in case if the news will be delayed and just keep your fingers crossed, please!
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Mar 11, 2011 07:00 PM Mt Elgon Nat. Park - Uganda
Sipi village lies on the altitude of 1800 m above the sea. days are hot, but the nights are pleasantly cool... The scenery is great so it is the place worth to recommend.
Close to Sipi you will find one of the gates to the Mt Elgon National Park. It is not easy to get there: by rented car or motorcycle only: 6 kms on paved road and then another 6 on the red and dusty country road. I took a boda-boda (12000 UGX). It was a sensation when local people from the tiny villages along the country roag saw mzungu on boda-boda...
At the Park gate I recognized that even 1-day visit to the park is not cheap: the minimum entry fee is 20 USD and you have to pay also 10 USD for the guide. What to do? I paid, and my armed guide Peter took me to the "nature wald through the dense jungle. We went to the cave, then up to the viewpoint on the rocks and finally to the Chebonet Fall. I saw black monkeys and the baboons on the trail...
The fall - I will tell you true is not worth the visit - I expected more - something like a Sipi. Chebonet is only like 10 m high and is does not have a good viepoint to apprecciate it. During the dry season the load of the water is weak... Consider that before you decide to pay and go! Close to the gate they offer accommodation in the cabins in the dense forest: 30000 per cabin, but no views, so I think that staying in Sipi is much nicer.
My return by walk from the park gate throug the villages was great: I met many local people, they invited me to drink with them home-made beer, explained how they built their round houses... Great, but tiring day!
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Mar 10, 2011 07:00 PM Sipi Falls - Uganda
It was early morning but I felt African heat already when I boarded matatu (junk microbus) going from Mbale to Sipi. One hour drive, 5000 UGX only. We started to drive bumpy road soon. The car was full, but when the driver see the extra client he will stop, squeeze passengers for extra profit. Oh, yes I was squeezed well. Bumps, humps, red dust during first quarter but surprisingly the road improved and we started to climb the hills.
It is the end of the dry season so I was prepared that there will be not much water in the Sipi Falls. But it is still impressive.
There is a choice o accommodation in Sipi. The closest to the fall is Lacam Lodge. For those on the tight budget Moses Camp offers banda huts (10000 per person).
In fact there are three falls - I took a local guide (10000 after bargaining) to find the path to each one. In addition you have to pay 1000 entry fee at each fall - not too much. The full loop to the 3 falls took me 5 hours - take the serious hiking shoes - the path is rough... Great views, wonderful countryside and African heat... I like Sipi!
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Mar 09, 2011 07:00 PM Mbale, East Uganda... the only mzungu on the bus!
They said that the bus from the capital to Mbale goes 3 hours, but it took me more then 4 hours to get there. I have been warned that there could be road blocks on the route, but fortunately not today. For 12000 UGX I got a front seat in "Elgon Flyer" bus. Soon the seat next to me was taken by the black lady - the teacher from Mbale. Nice person except that she had very wide bottom, so I had a little comfort... And of course I was the only mzungu on the bus.
There were many police checks on the route, but they are formal only. I crossed Nile River again in Jinja. Three hours later a big mountain appeared on the horizon - that was Mt Elgon.
Provincial town of Mbale lies at the bottom of this big mountain. It was too late to continue the trip to Sipi, so I decided to spend the night in Travellers Inn (room with bath 25000 UGX) and to go onward next morning.
It is hot, hot, hot... I like Mbale -it is very colorful, vibrant - especially the bazar. Big mango or avocado fruit cost 500 UGX. Loaf of bread - 1500, an egg - 300. That will be enough for my dinner!
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