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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Nov 10, 2010 07:00 PM Crozet Archipelago on the horizon!
In Poland my friends celebrate our national holiday. I also celebrate it - thousands kilometers away. There will be the toast at the dinner for Poland and all my Polish friends. My French fellow do not know much about Poland and our history.
In the morning I saw for the first time the high, northern coast of Possession Island - the biggest island of Crozet Archipelago. The islands were discovered by the French expedition headed by Marion Dufresne on 22nd January 1772. Now you know why they named our supply ship "Marion Dufresne". Julien
Crozet was the first mate on this expedition and the archipelago got his name. The islands were forgotten for many years. Only in 1931 France sent there navy ship to confirm that they are still French. Icy wind on the open deck. Our helicopter takes to the shore people and equipment for the field scientific works during Antarctic summer. Then we sail along the picturesque northern coast with cliffs and waterfalls to Marin Bay, where scientific base Alfred Faure is located. Soon helicopter took us ashore.
On the coast, 1,5 km walk down from the base we visited huge king penguin colony. Busy and interesting day!
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Nov 09, 2010 07:00 PM Fourth day in the ocean
It is 2860 kms from Reunion to the islands of Crozet Archipelago. We already entered the zone of the "roaring forties" - 40 degrees and more to the South, infamous for the bad weather. And it is true: since today's morning the ocean around is no longer blue but grey, no more sun and the waves are much higher. In the mess they use already special, rubber table cloth, so the plates do not fall down.
In the morning we had helicopter security instruction. They have one little helicopter on board (capacity: 5 pax + pilot) It is 8-years old but looks much better than the ship. It seems that they prefer to send passengers to the land by helicopter then I the zodiacs.
I just want you to know that from the ship I do not have access to the web pages and to my standard mailbox. You can read my daily notes because I send them in the packages via satellite to my friend, who is uploading them to the GS portal (thank you Magda!). I will be able to response all your letters only on 2nd December. So please, be patient.
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Nov 08, 2010 07:00 PM Manchot - do you know such an animal?
During the long days at sea we have lectures and slide shows in the cramp conference hall. In French language of course. My French allows me to speak about travels and daily life, but
not about geology, environmental problems and
biology. It is easier to understand if you see it written on the screen. Today they spoke about manchots. Did you hear about such an animal? That's how they call penguins! What do they
invented!
For those of you who plan to follow my route here is the info which is not available when you plan the voyage: Basic plan of "Marion Dufresne" journey: Reunion- 4 days at sea - Crozet 3 days - 2 days at sea -Kerguelen 5 days - 2 days at sea - Saint Paul 1 day - Amsterdam 3 days - and 4 days at sea to
Reunion. Little changes are possible depending of the cargo and weather. So far I do not complain about the weather - it is sunny and the majestic wondering albatrosses are flying around the ship all day. I sleep better now.
There is not much vibration from the ship's motors because they are powered from electric generators. But you still feel the rocking and rolling. Fortunately for dinner they serve good wine, which is included in our daily menu. After
few glasses you will sleep better.
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Nov 07, 2010 07:00 PM Stranger in the (French) "paradise"
All announcements on the ship are in French and I try to follow them,
but it is also not easy because they speak very fast. It is their home
language and talking they use very sophisticated words and phrases to
proof how intelligent they are. Fortunately I have a English-speaking
cabin mate Gerard and he is often explaining what is going on. One of
the guides (we have 2 guides for 15 travelers) speaks English and from
time to time translates for me. I found that the half of their
conversation is polite bla-bla-bla-bla, just the garbage - not worth to
translate.
Captain announced that it will take us four days and four nights to get
to the place of the first landing on Crozet Island. I had a time to
visit all decks and (I am sorry to say that) I see that the ship is
dirty and requires a lot of paint. "Marion Dufresne" is sailing to the
islands of French Subantarctic only 4 times per year with the supply for
the French scientific stations, bringing new shift of the scientists and
taking back the old one. It has 50 people of the crew and space in the
cabins for 110 passengers (officials, people in charge, scientists and
the tourists). Most of this space is occupied by the young scientists
and technicians who repair broken equipment of the stations during these
days when the ship anchors at the island. On this voyage we - the
travelers - are the weak minority - it is only 15 of us and they said
they never take more then 20 - it depends on the number of the free
bunks. They said that the space for the tourists on `Marion` is sold
already for two years ahead. We feel like the chosen ones...
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Nov 06, 2010 07:00 PM French breakfast on the Indian Ocean
Sunday. In the morning I saw only blue ocean around. The weather is
sunny with some clouds and moderate wind. Our ship is swinging on the
waves up and down and I try to adjust myself to the new situation. Waves
are quite high: 2-3 meters. In the morning they serve self-service,
French breakfast: coffee, bread, butter & jam and some fruits. Every day
the same stuff. No eggs, cheese or meats, sorry. Instead they serve
your choice of cheese (but only the kids portions) during lunch and
dinner.
It is only 15 of us - the passengers on board of "Marion Dufresne". And
it seems that I am the only non-Frenchman on the ship. Wow! Maybe it is
the honor, but for this reason my life here is not easy. In the morning
captain invited us to the bridge for the introduction. In French of
course. In the afternoon we had the lecture about emergency
procedures and a trial evacuation alarm. But this is normal. I saw the
lonely container ship passing by. It was on the shortest route from Cape
Town to Singapore. Further south it will be hard to see any vessels.
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Nov 05, 2010 07:00 PM From Reunion to the cold South!
I got the message via e-mail that I can board the ship after 2.30 pm so
I decided to make in the morning another excursion - to the Mafate
Mountain Circus. There is no public transport like to Cilaos, but they
built a good paved road to the Maido view point on the edge of the
circus. My friend took me there by her car. It is only about 40 kms up
from Saint Paul but it took us more than an hour to get from the sea
level to some 2000 meters above. It is better to start early in the
morning because later the clouds cover the mountains and there is not
much to see. We were lucky! The view from Maido is exceptional: you can
see all mountain circus with small settlements in it, connecting paths
and pitons - single, sharp rocks rising from the circus.
At 2.30 pm I finally saw expedition ship "Marion Dufresne II" in the old
part of Reunion's port. With its 9000 BRT it is much bigger than the
Russian ships known from my previous sailings to Antarctica. And it has
a special deck for the little helicopter. They were waiting for me. I
got a lower bunk in the twin cabin with bath and was soon introduced to
the captain and fellow passengers. At 5.30 pm we set sails for the
26-days expedition to the cold South. I do hope it will be one of the most
exciting sailings in my life.
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Nov 04, 2010 07:00 PM Friday market in Saint Denis de la Reunion
It is Friday. Every Friday they close for the traffic one of the avenues close to St Francois Blv and in the morning it converts to the marche, with many stalls under the palm treelower prices than in the shops...
I saw there plenty of tropical flowers and fruits, they sell also spices like vanilla or nutmeg. Octopus and color fish is also present but I cannot understand why here, in the middle of the ocean it is so expensive - the price is 10 to 15 euro per kilo.
For the lunch it is nice to be in the nicest garden of Saint Denis: Jardin d`Etat - it is not a big place but well maintained with exotic trees, lotus flowers in the ponds and pretty Creoles wondering around. Reunion is multiracial society; you will see Europeans, Africans, Hindi, even Chinese. They live peacefuly on one island, do not fight and work toogether for their prosperity. The level of the life is higher here then on the other islands around Africa.
It is still sunny, but getting windy today. Tomorrow in the afternoon I will board the ship and depart from Reunion... I hope that the ocean won`t be rough... :))
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Nov 03, 2010 07:00 PM Rent a wreck? No wrecks for today...
I wanted to rent a cheap car and drive around the island. There are agencies who advertize that they have small cars for as low as 19 euro per day. My friend Rick called two agencies yesterday, but unfortunetely they did not have their wrecks available for the next two days. I decided to change the plan and to use the public transport to go to Cilaos Circus. There are three deep and closed volcanic valleys. They are very unique places and France apply to UNESCO to put them on the World Heritage list.
I went to one of this valleys. Public transport on Reunion is subsidized so the cost of such a journey is low: I took the bus to St Luis /2 hours, 4,20 euro/ and then next bus to Cilaos town /1,5 h 1,30 euro/. Thousand of switchbacks on the way, tunnels, bridges, wonderful panoramas... Great day...
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Nov 02, 2010 07:00 PM St Denis de la Reunion
I have to learn French again... Few people on the street speak English on Reunion. Today I was wondering all day around the capital of Reunion. City bus cost 1.30 euro - it is worth to take it if you have a long distance to walk - it is very hot and humid here. St Denis changed a lot since my last visit. They make a long pedestrian zone on Leclerc Street... They restored many old colonial buildings. Little market near the Chinese temple is worth to visit - the current price for the pineapple is just 1 euro. In the tourist information office on rue de Paris /near Leclerc/ they offer free internet an maps. I am looking for the opportunity to make an excursion around the island...
For those of you who don`t have friends in Reunion: there is minibus going from the airport to the centre of Saint Denis every 1 -2 hours. They charge 4 euro each way. Deparure point in Saint Denis is Gare Routiere on the coast.
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Nov 01, 2010 07:00 PM La Reunion - France in the tropics
The view from our B777 aproaching the island was great. It is worth to take the seat at the right window to see the coast and the green mountains rising over 2000 m. In the airport there are no border formalities: you are coming from France to France on the other side of the equator.
I know from my short previous stay - some 15 years ago - that the island is very expensive. Fortunately I was lucky to find here friends from Servas - the world organization of the open doors. The band in the orange shirts was plaing in the terminal hall on arrival.
Richard - another world traveller met me and took me to their house up on the hill. There is a great view of the city of St Denis from their balcony. Sylvia - his wife and kids were waiting at home. It is nice to talk with the people who also travel a lot. to discuss about the places like Lake Malawi or Vancouver Island...
It is sunny, hot and humid here - I have to adjust to the new climate and time zone. And to the French keyboard...
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