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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Oct 21, 2010 02:00 PM By bus, by plane, by ship - on a budget...
Sanya, Hainan Island, China. Hot (32 deg) sunny and humid.
It is worth to know, that Hong Kong is quite expensive for the transit passengers. Flights are expensive and apt taxes too... So I decided not to fly from Hainan to HKG airport but to Shenzhen - just accross the border and to continue by bus or ship to the new HKG airport for my night flight to London. This should be the cheaper alternative for the budget traveller... So it is time to pack again my backpack and to walk to the city bus no.8.
It will take me to the airport just for 5 yuans. The taxi from the hotel area to the airport area costs 60 yuans. The savings will give me a chance to travel further and to see more... Let's go!
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Oct 20, 2010 02:00 PM Chinese tourist traps...
In Sanya, Hainan you will see more advertising in Russian, then in English. A lot of Russian vacationers are coming here. I did not expect that it will be easier to communicate here in Russian than in English. If the shopkeeper speaks foreign language, it is Russian.
I took a regular tourist bus to the tourist attractions west of Sanya. For 6 yuans they took me from Dadonghai where the hotels and hostels are, to Taniya - some 20 kms west of the town. There is scenic park with a interesting rock formations on the beach. If you saw The Baths on Virgin Gorda it is like that (plus a thousand of Chinese tourists...). They charge 65 juan entry fee and I think it is worth if you love the nature...
Another 15 kms west by the same blue bus there is Nanshan Cultural Centre: recently built Buddhist temple with a staue of the Goddess of Mercy on the little island connected to the mainland by the short causeway. They want to pay you here 150 yuan. I think it is overpriced tourist trap...
Fruit sellers are giving the price not for the kilo but for the pound - this could be for you another surprise. The beer in the street shop cost 4-5 yuans, but the same in the beach restaurant - hefty 25 yuans... It is better to avoid such a tourist places - they are milking tourists as much as possible...
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Oct 19, 2010 02:00 PM Hainan - enjoying The South Seas...
Tropical typhoon Megi is closer and closer. You can see it here:
http://www.hko.gov.hk/wxinfo/currwx/tc_pos.htm
I am lucky - it is turning to the north now.
The big voyage is coming to the end. I plan to fly home on Friday. I do hope that they will not cancel flights due to the typhoon.
But so far here, in the south of the Hainan island I enjoy the hot (32 deg) and sunny weather swiming in the warm sea.
People call Hainan Island "The Hawaii of China". In Sanya, where I am the scecery is really similar - white beach with green hills in the background. Many high hotel and apartament buildings along the beach. Palm trees, the voice of the waves. In the evening they play western music in many beach restaurants, there are lanterns, laser lights over the bay - nice atmosphere. Like in Honolulu (but much cheaper). Last evening a charming local lady on the beach promenade asked me if I want a massage - only 400 yuans - like 60 USD... Well - as you know I am the budget traveler and and the response was: No thank you!
But maybe I should bargain a little bit and try? :))
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Oct 18, 2010 02:00 PM "Hainan braces for typhoon" !!
There are competing airlines in China so it is worth to shop around. Don't buy China domestic tickets abroad: even on the net you will pay approx twice more then here... I paid for the ticket to Hainan 430 yuan - like 70 USD only incl taxes...
Traveling long time across China without the knowledge of the local language you are pretty well isolated from the news. But boarding my plane in Guangzhou impressive airport I got an english edition of "China daily". I opened it on board already flying to Hainan and I rode: "Hainan braces for typhoon"...
Strong typhoon Megi is on the Philippines now heading to South China Sea.
It was raining when we landed in Sanya. They have already flooding due to the heavy rains but only in the central-north part of the island...
I found the minibus shuttle going to the Dodonghai beach quarter. Blue Sky Hostel is almost empty - everybody escaped... How about me? Please keep eye on the typhoon forecast! Thanks...
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Oct 17, 2010 02:00 PM Hard sleeper, but not too hard...
The lower cathegory of the sleeper on Chinese Railways are hard sleepers. There are open compartments with 6 beds on 3 levels in every one. They provide clean pillow and sheets with thick blanket. Bud it is true that the bunks are hard...
It is very socializing style of travel - everybody is looking what you are doing and during the day all pax sit on the lower beds. That's why it is better to buy the middle bunk, if available...
I travel on a hard sleeper from Yongding to Guangzhou - like 9 hours only. And this will be the end of my rail odyssey through China. From Guangzhou I plan to take inexpensive domestic flight to Hainan Island.
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Oct 16, 2010 02:00 PM Strange houses of Hakka people
I am in Yongding - Fujian Province. And I know that it was a good choice to make a stopover. It is stunning rural area of rolling hills. Hakka people live here in their strange tulou - the roundhouses. I must tell you that I did not see such a buildings in the world. Can you imagine the building of the size and shape of Roman circus? Made of mud or earth if you wish... It is like little round castle 3-6 storey high with one gate only.
Inside there are galleries made of timber and rooms or flats on 3-6 levels where the Hakka still live... 200-300 flats in one tulou... People are cooking, cleaning, washing - the buildings are avlive!
I went by bus to Lulian (13 yuan from Yongding) and rented there the motorbike with a local driver - he took me to different tulou. I paid him 120 yuans - like 20 USD but it was worth... But... Chinese authorities established a post on the only road to tulou - they charge 100 entry fee for 3 places - you are receiving ticket with a UNESCO World Heritage Sign...
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Oct 15, 2010 02:00 PM Did you hear about Piano Island?
A bowl of sweet peanut soup and xialongbao dumplings for the breakfast - all cost me 5 yuan (less then 1 dollar) in the Xiamen street eatery...
Just opposite the old part of the city you will see little island of Gulang Yu. It has a Chinese nickname of Piano Island. Why? They say that many famous China's pianists learned and worked on this island...
Gulang Yu in the past was the place of the first European community, settled here in 19th century. A lot of houses from that era remained and the island still has its charm with narrow streets, banyan trees, colonial mansions and flowers.
I took a ferry to get to the island - it takes only 10 minutes each way and 8 yuan for RT ticked paid on return leg. It is worth to pay 1 youan more and get to the upper dack for the view of the skyline of Siamen and the roofs of Gulang Yu... Unfortunately catholic church - probably the nicest on the island was closed during my visit... Maybe you will be lucky to see it inside...
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Oct 14, 2010 02:00 PM Xiamen - tropical China...
I like this city from the first day... It is not like other monster-cities of China. Some half a million inhabitants only... Beautifuly located on the coast, with nice skyline and hills in the background... Easy to navigate, with simple bus system (1 yuan a ride). And it is warm and sunny here: trees are in blossom, people are easy-going. I am in the tropics, where day tempersture reaches pleasant 29 deg Celsius...
I stay in the international youth hostel (last stop of the city bus 1 from the station). Nice place, except... the mosquitoes. As usual in the tropics... They have nets in the windows installed but they are still inside. Bring your own net or the repellent to sleep better - I did not expect such a case!
Just 300 m from Nanputuo Temple - the main buddhist temple of the city. They charge 7 yuan entry fee but it is worth to be there early in the morning - before the tourist groups arrive... You will see chanting monks in orange dressing and worshippers lighting incense.
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Oct 13, 2010 02:00 PM China - how to get railway tickets...
I have ny next segment of rail journey - not much - just over 1000 kms... :))
I tried to buy my ticket few days ahead. At the station there is usually a crowd waiting in front of the ticket office. Do not expect a special English-speaking desk... So It is better to ask in your hostel - let's them write for you on the piece of paper in Chinese where and when you want to travel...
I did. The clerk in the window was looking at the paper and he said: tickets for today and tomorrow only! I found somobody speaking some English to explain, but the answer was the same... There should be a special window at the big stations for advance, 10-days purchase - but who knows where?
In the big towns there are little railways booking offices in the downtowns. Ask at the hostel - your chance will be better there. That's what I did. They charge 5 yuan more per ticket but they shold know few words of English and they are likely to find you other connection in case if there is no space on the train of your choice. I have my ticket to Xiamen! Let's go!
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Oct 12, 2010 02:00 PM Les baguettes de Hangzhou
Do you remember a lovely song "Les biciclettes de Belsize?"
Well, now - in 6-million Hangzhou I sing it "Les baguettes de Hangzhou" Why? After a number of consecutive days on rice and noodles only I have just round the corner French patisserie where they offer fesh and crispy French baguettes /7 yuan each/. Oh la,la!
I stay in the Mingtown youth hostel conveniently located on the West Lake, close to the center of the city. They charge 40 yuans for the dorm bed with a YH card.
I do not speak Chinese and often I have problems. But they are easy to solve. Today I wanted to buy a honey. Shopkeeper did not understand what is honey but after my short demonstration (with bzzz... bzzz... (what the bees do) and mniaam... mniaam... - he brought me a jar of honey (for 15 yuans). Everybody had a fun!
The nicest part of old Hangzhou is located around the West Lake. Can you imagine green hills with pagodas, temples, gardens. Boats sailing to the small islands on the lake? - People say that it is like a the image of traditional Chna in the pill... I took a walk around the lake. The weather unfortunately is wet, so it is only half of the pleasure... May be next time...
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