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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Apr 26, 2010 02:00 PM Expensive, commercialized Chukotka...
Today I was invited to the Children's Palace in Anadyr to see the traditional Chukot dances and listen to the songs performed by the teenagers... And I had a wonderful time with them. The leader of the team - Galina Ivanovna is a charming, hospitable person. I had a chance to make some video recordings and to see their archive pictures. Great young people and great evening!
Norteco Agency came with a paper "dogovor" (agreement) who was an unpeasant surprise - I found out that their one-hour tour of the town will cost me 1100 roubles (like 22 taxi rides within the town, 50 roubles each) then a visit to geology room is 500 roubles (yesterday they said it is free because it is not a museum) and I must pay also 600 rou of undefined extra company costs... and so on...
After lovely reception on Sakhalin I did not expect that I have to check in advance in Chukotka how much money they expect. Mistake! I do not want a conflict, but let you know what you can expect. At the end of your stay You can find your date of birth or the distance Anadyr-Moscow (6400 kms) added to you Norteco bill... You can easily visit Anadyr on your own by foot...
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Apr 25, 2010 02:00 PM Chukotka dances and songs...
I am still in Anadyr - the capital of Chukotka region meeting people and taking pictures... Chukots have famous folk ansamble "Ergeron" ("The East"). I had a chance to see them on the stage and I must say that they impressed me. The songs acommpanied by drums in the local language were hard to understand but dances were dynamic and colorful...
We have sunny weather and minus 12 deg today. I hope that the little plane will come from Alaska to pick me up on Wednesday...
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Apr 24, 2010 02:00 PM 26000 for the day tour...
Chukotka. The Anadyr port is completly frozen. They say that they expect first cargo boat to come in June. Such a boat, coming usualy from Vladivostok could be another way to go to/from Anadyr...
I wanted to go outside Anadyr to see the Chukot village life. The nearest one - Konchyelam is 67 kms away and since there is heavy snow around all terrain vehicle is necessary to reach this village. Today they say that the round-trip day tour by trikol (ATV) will cost 26000 roubles - like 900 USD. Since I am again the only tourist in Anadyr there is a little chance that I will find other persons to split the cost...
Today I have a chance to meet local sled dogs place on the outskirts of Anadyr. I was riding such a sledge before but it was pleasure to see the friendly animals again. They were running on the deep snow in the bright sun. I hope that the pictures will be nice... I had reindeer meat for the lunch - quite tasty!
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Apr 23, 2010 02:00 PM In the snows of Anadyr - Chukotka
You will need a special permit from the Russian authorities to enter Chukotka. They check the permit before you will go out from the plane in Anadyr. I got my permit after waiting more then 3 months. An agency from Moscow (the middlemen) helped me to arrange it. An they took some extra money. Now I know that you can address directly to the NORTOCO agency in Anadyr - Chukotka to arrange the permit. Contact person is Natalia Belyokonyeva ph +7 924 6677014 e-mail nortoco(at)mail.ru on such a way you will avoid the additional cost I paid.
There are two airlines who fly to Anadyr from Moscow: Transaero and Yakutia and once per two week there is the flight of Vladivistok Avia from Khabarovsk. But Vladivostok Avia is not reliable airline.
I put on me all my warm stuff from the backpack and took a long walk around Anadyr. There are two orthodox churches (the upper one is very nice) giant monument of St Nicolas watching the Bering sea and Lenin monument...
One of the two main streets is also called Lenin St. At Lenin Square I found an interesting Chukotka museum. Entry is free. And the lonely city bus going up and down is also free - can you imagine?
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Apr 22, 2010 02:00 PM Landed in Chukotka...
It was long flight over snowy Siberia... I celebrated my nameday (the day of St Wojciech - 23rd April) on the plane before we landed the remote airport in Anadyr.
Anadyr is the capital city of the Autonoumus Okrug of Chukotka - the Russian territory just opposite Alaska.
A lot of snow here, strong sun and minus 10 deg. Celsius (only minus 10 - thanks God!).
The airport lies some 8 kms north of the town - to get to the town you have to cross 3 kms-wide bay called Liman. Thanks God it is still completly frozen so the cars go freely on the ice.
Anadyr city surprises me. I expected to see half-ruined post-Soviet outpost like Tiksi. But what I see is a nicely painted town with some modern houses, cinema, supermarket...
Only 49000 people live on whole Chukotka and around 15000 in Anadyr.
I found the accommodation in the private homestay - I pay 900 rouble for the warm room on the 5th floor. Lets have a rest and adjust to the ne time zone...
Thanks, dear Friends to all of you who sent me a wishef for my Imieniny=the Nameday celebrated by Poles!
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Apr 20, 2010 02:00 PM My friends from Sakhalin...
I travel alone. But every day of such a round-the-world voyage brings me a new adventures and meetings with a new people. In remote Yuzno-Sakhalinsk I found many nice and helpful people: Natasha - talented painter, Olga - the photographer, Kurils lover, Anna - charming director of Tchekhov museum, Igor - knowledgeable writer and photographer... Thanks a lot for your help and the wonderful time we spent toogether...
Natasha and Olga took me to the countryside - in the great lanscape we drove to the still frozen Lake Tunaycha. Then onward to the coast to meet swans (they are coming here from the south announcing the springtime) and to enjoy the great sunset...
I am waiting for the air connection to Chukotka. Sorry to say goodbye to my new friends in Sakhalin...
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Apr 19, 2010 02:00 PM How to get to Kuril Islands?
This chain of volcanic islands is famous for its beauty and unspoiled nature... It is very hard to get the information how to get there. I came without complete knowledge. Now let you know more: Yuzho-Sakhalinsk and little port of Korsakov are the gateways. You need a special permit to go to the Kurils. Friendly "Intur-Sakhalin" (former Intourist) will help you to obtain the paper. Contact Ludmila Ivanova intourist-sakhalin(at)isle.ru ph.420278 -Russian only or Marina (same phone) who speaks basic English. They need 5-6 days to complete the procedure. The cost of the permit is eqiuiv. of 20 USD in Roubles.
Transport: there are erratic flights only to Kunashir Island, often cancelled due to the foggy wheather. The only passenger boat "Igor Forkhudinov" sails weekly visiting 3 island one by one (Iturup, Sikhotan,Kunashir) before returning to Korsakov and make same route in the opposite direction. One way fare is 3500 roubles, due to the big demand book well in advance!.
The ship start sailings in April/early May - it depends of ice situation. I come this year too early - they to not operate yet -the first sailing will be at the end of April...
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Apr 18, 2010 02:00 PM Yuzhno-Sakhaklinsk...
We have still here piles of snow along the streets and a white mountain Gorny Vozdukh overlooking the town. I took a long walk to see the places of interest. Probably the most interesting is the museum located in the former Japanese headquarters ( till 1945 Southern Sakhalin was the possesion of Japan - they call it Karafuto). It is pagoda -style building with interesting exibitions inside. Second-nice will be St Innokyenty Russian Orthodox Church. I found also new and nice catholic church of St James. During the Russian Empire time Sakhalin was a penal colony (like Australia in early days). Russian writer A Tchekhov was here in 1890 - his little museum is also worth to see in Kurilskaya St. I have lovely sunny weather, but the spring did not arrive here yet...
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Apr 17, 2010 02:00 PM Russian Far East
In the tiny Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk airport everything was smooth: no questions from immigrations, no questions or bribe suggestions at the customs (but they screen all luggage). In front of the airport (left side) bus 63 was waiting just for me (other 11 pax took a taxi). I paid 14 roubles for me and another 14 for my backpack (it is worth to have some Russian money - I did not see any exchange office in the airport).
Bus took me to the railway station. It is not busy (no rail connection to the mainland Russia) so the institution of the babushka-room does not exist here. I went to the cheapest hotel in town - Moneron Hotel just near the station. A room with share bath and WC costs already 1100 roubles (1 USD is worth 29 roubles). From the window I see Lenin Square with a huge statue of Lenin. In the reception you can read main local daily paper: Sovyetsky Sakhalin. No much changes...
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Apr 16, 2010 02:00 PM Time to say: Sayonara Japan!
From the instruction for the guests in my business hotel room:
A TAKEOUT OF BUILT-IN TOWELS IS PROHIBITION !.
Aren't they funny? Yes, I had a lot of fun here in Japan.
This is fortunately the last day of the validity of my Japan Rail Pass so I will travel to the airport without extra cost. In the morning I will took a train to Sapporo (4 hours) and then a special train to the New Chitose Airport. In the late afternoon I have my flight on little DASH Caribou. In the evening I should land in Russia. Please, keep your fingers crossed...
7 hours later:
Can you imagine? In the huge and modern Sapporo airport they have free internet facility in the international arrival hall! So even before your check-in you can use it - waiting for your flight. I am already after check-in to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. They said there will be 12 passengers only on this flight - what a luxury! It is the time to go to the security control. So, Sayonara Japan!
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