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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Apr 15, 2010 02:00 PM The fourth corner of Hokkaido...
It took me four hours by express train to get from Sapporo to Kushiro... Kushiro is little-known, tidy town in the south-east of Hokkaido Island. Youth hostel is located here quite far from the station so I decided to try Japanese -business hotel- It is worth to know: paying only 600 yen more you get single room with private bath, fridge and TV, yukata cloth and unlimited usage of internet...
It is Palude Hotel - just 3 min walk from the station...
Kushiro area is known for its white cranes - one of the symbols of Japan. But I was traveling onward - to the easternmost point of Hokkaido - Cape Nosappu. At the beginning by futsu - local one-carriage train. Then by bus. I had sunny day! From the futsu window I saw on the way many deers... Then there is a bus from Nemuro to the cape.
And from the cape -where many monuments are erected - I saw Kuril Islands. Since the second war it is Russian territory, but claimed also by Japan since it is so close to Hokkaido...
Wonderful sunset on the elegant city bridge in Kushiro... It seems to be my last evening in Japan... Sentimental me... But I like Japan...
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Apr 14, 2010 02:00 PM Japan. The nostalgy of Otaru...
It is only 40 minutes by train (my railpass still works) from Sapporo to the little, charming port of Otaru. When Japan open the doors for the West at the end of 19th century Otaru was one of important gateways. Many buildings from that era remained... Warehouses and banks, there is also picturesque canal and romantic gas lamps around. One of streets - Nichigin-dori was called The Wall Street of The North due to the many banks. In the former building of the Bank of Japan now is a museum where you can see old banknotes and coins. Thick steel door of the treasurer will take you to the place where they kept money... Otaru is definitely worth to see!
Good news: with a help of my friend in Poland (thanks a lot Bogus!) I go electronic ticket for the just-introduced flight to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk on Saturday. I hope I will not be the only passenger and they will not cancel the flight... Russians sometimes are unpredictable...
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Apr 13, 2010 02:00 PM Sapporo beer... Jengis Khan for dinner...
I am back in Sapporo trying to find my way to Sakhalin.
This is quite young town - designed at the end of 19th century. Wide streets, high buildings and more then 1,8 mln inhabitants. World knew a little about Sapporo before the winter olympic games in 1972. I remember that another Wojciech from my country got a gold medal in jumping during this games.
The most atmospheric place in Sapporo is the old fish market - a little quarter of old houses where they sell more lobsters then fish... The landmark of the city is a old clock tower. Close to the old one is a new one TV tower - like a miniature of Eiffels in Paris...
Still snowing here. In the afternoon I took a train to get to the famous Sapporo brewery for the free tour. All production automated, only 100 people work there. At the end you have allowance of 3 glases to drink in 20 minutes... Thank you!
Back in Sapporo I decided to try local speciality - a meat dish called Jengis Khan. Not bad - in fact the first solid meal since my visit to my Polish friends near Tokyo... Bon apetit!
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Apr 12, 2010 02:00 PM Unlucky in Wakkanai... 60 kms to Sakhalin!
I am in the northern tip of Japan - only 60 kms from the Russian port of Korsakov on the Sakhalin...
Sometimes the experience and the determination are not enough. You need also some luck to make your plan working.
It is snowing non- stop since the morning. I went to the Wakkanai port. I recognized two little Russian fishing boats. I went aboard to speak to the captain. -Russian authorities do not allow us to take the passengers! Sorry! They did not change the mind even when I offer discretly the bribe. In addition they said that the cyclone is coming from the east so they do not know when they will sail out.
Then I was trying to get to the second boat. Guard stopped me at the gate. Police car arrived soon. Two guys in the black coats, one of them speaking Russian. I have been investigated and taken for the control at the immigration services post. They searched my bag. Finally they said let me go, but they know that Russians are not allowed to take passengers on the fishing boats. There is a chance on big, cargo ships but at the moment there is no such a ship in the port...
First Japanese ferry will cross the straits to Sakhalin on June 8th - just let you know. Then it will be simple to go to Russia. But it will cost hefty 25000 yen for the one way!
It is still snowing - I decided to come back to Sapporo and look for the flight before snow will completly cover the single rail track to this last Japanese outpost...
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Apr 11, 2010 02:00 PM Through the snowy Hokkaido
It is more then 400 kms from Sapporo to the little port of Wakkanai at the northernmost point of Japan. Rail travel takes about 6 hours. I started at 12.37 - they are always on time! It is hard to believe but north of Sapporo there is more and more snow. Sun was shinning above the fields when we were meandring along the little rivers, at the bottom of picturesque hills. Less and less settlements... It looks like Siberia... Winter landscape... I reached little Wakkanai station when it was already dark. I found the youth hostel near the station closed. Fortunately the other one - on the hill was open. Cold inside, but the welcome was very warm. I am the only guest...
They say: no Russian ships in the coming days. Should I trust them?
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Apr 10, 2010 02:00 PM From the tropics of Okinawa to the snows of Hokkaido
All day on the trains! Superexpres shinkansen goes only as far as Hatchinoche on Honsiu island. Then I changed a train and we soon entered 53-kms long undersea tunnel between the islands of Honsiu and Hokkaido. After some half an hour in the darkness I saw the snows on the hills of Hokkaido. We arrived soon to Hakodate and I changed the train again...
The area of Hokkaido gives 20% of the area of Japan. But only 5 % of the population live here. The landscape is different, village houses are not as nice as in the south.
Hokkaido until mid-19th century was little known - Ainu people lived here. Later was colonized by Japanese and now it is hard to see Ainu here.
In Sapporo, in the late evening I found the Sapporo house YH, not far from the station. Almost empty place -they charge 3150 yen per dorm bed. One traditional Japanese bathroom for all - it is in the basement. Bring your earplugs - rail track is just nearby and you will count all trains passing by...
It is cold - only 4 deg Celsius - I dream again about the heat of Okinawa...
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Apr 09, 2010 02:00 PM Bad news about the ship and more...
In the afternoon I arrived by Hikari superexpress to Tokyo.
Somebody was waiting for me: Mirek and his Family - the Poles living temporary in Japan. Thanks a lot for your invitation and your warm hospitality! It was so nice to speak again Polish...
As you know, I plan to go to Russian Sakhalin from the top of Japan - Hokkaido island by sea. I got a bed message. Russian ship just sailed yesterday from Otaru and they do not know if there will be another one sailing in the coming days. I have to go to the port immediately to check availability - from the distance it is very hard to get any reliable information, if you do not speak Japanese.
Another bad news: Polish government jet crashed with our president and many other politicians on board. Tragedy... So sorry!...
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Apr 08, 2010 02:00 PM Superexpress like a taxi...
When I was first time in Japan some 20 years ago I was surprised that their superexpress trains go every 15-20 minutes... Now I use them without any limits, using my railpass.
I have been today to Himeji to visit the most magnificent Japaneese castle. The castle is really beautiful, especially that is surrounded by cherries in blossom -a lot of them! Entry to the castle cost 600 yen - it is worth to spend.
Then I took Hikari superexpress to Kyoto, to see again after years the big Buddhist temples near the station. Entry to Highashi and Nishi temples is still free but I found the biggest temple in Highashi covered by the special, modern roof. Temples are still impressive.
In the afternoon I took the Hikari back to Osaka - to see one more castle and famous aquarium - all in one day!
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Apr 07, 2010 02:00 PM Sayonara, my nicest minshuku!
Shikoku Island. Japan.
Minshuku is usualy a little Japanese-style guesthouse. Hard to find if you dont know local language - no English script on the building... I like minshuku... I prefere them to the crowded backpackers institutions like Miyajima. For single tatami room you pay the same price like for the dorm bed in backpackers or YH: 3300 yen.
In Tokushima on Shikoku I stay in the Sakura-ji minschuku located just 150 m from the station. The lady owner do not speak any English, but is very polite. Me too! I got free yukata (mens version of light kimono) to wear, daily portion of green tea and every evening he were preparing for me Japaneese-style bath in the only bathroom.
Today it was the time to say -Sayonara! I was really very sad to leave this place. I went by train to the picturesque Iya Valley in central Shikoku. Nice landscapes there, but I must go north soon...
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Apr 06, 2010 02:00 PM Pilgrim on Shikoku Island
Few travelers go to Shikoku Island. It is off the main trail. Okayama is the only gateway to Shikoku if you travel by rail...
Shikoku is the island of the shines. In 8th century holy Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi started the pilgrimage from temple to temple around the island. Today thousands of Buddhist do that - mostly in segments, because all circuit covering 88 shrines is 1400 kms long.
I started early from the first temple of Ryozenji - very nice and atmospheric place, then walked onward to Gokurakuji to meet there a group of "real" pilgrims dressed in white, with traditional straw hats - you will see them the pictures. They were singing in the temple very nice. Then 2,5 kms walk to the next temple - Konsenji, and again 5 kms to Dainichiji through the bamboo forest. In the fifth temple - Jizoji rain started. I decided to come back to Tokushima. I visited 5 temples of 88... Not much maybe. But enough to feel the atmosphere of the pilgrimage on the unusual trail...
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