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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Dec 06, 2007 07:00 PM The road to Taba - Sinai
The coastal road from southern tip of Sinai (Sharm) goes north initially not on the coast but inland - through the mountains and desert. Only the last part of this route: from Nuweiba to Taba offers nice coastal panoramas. I decided to take a public bus to see this part of Sinai - the ticket from Dahab to Nuweiba or Nuweiba to Taba costs just 11 pounds (2 USD). I enjoyed the views - there were only 5 people on the bus and the driver was so kind to stop just before Taba for the picture of nice Saleh al Din castle built on the little island... I had 2 hours to explore tiny Taba.. Nice excursion just for 4 USD! I returned to Nuweiba for the night - there is plenty of empty beach camps to stay from 20 pounds a night...
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Dec 05, 2007 07:00 PM Snorkeling in the Blue Hole...
Egypt - Sinai. Dahab - once a silent backpackers outpost now is changing his face - they built here nice promenade along the coast. More and more hotels require payment in euro or dollars (30 euro per room). But thanks God there are still also "Beduin Camps" where you can stay for 25-30 pounds - like 6 USD. So if you came here - look for the camp like "Sindbad" .
Sun is strong - my laundry is almost dry after few hours...
I took today a long - 5 km -walk along the coast - north - to the Blue Hole. Located in the nice scenery it is great place for diving and snorkeling. You can rent there your mask and snorkel for 10 pounds and jump into the warm water to enjoy the wonderful views of coral gardens and nice fish... I saw already one Blue Hole - on Palau Island but that close to Dahab is easy accessible and offers great snorkeling. Many agencies offer day tours from Dahab to the canyons of Sinai. Typical price for day tour is 150 pounds. That's much... I'll try to find other solution to see picturesque places around...
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Dec 04, 2007 07:00 PM Sinai. Monastery of St Catherine...
This famous monastery is located in the narrow valley - just 4km - one hour walk from my camp in Al Milga. It is a must if you are visiting Sinai - the scenery is just fantastic.
Roman Empress Helena buit here in 4th century the chapel on the place where God from burning bush spoke to Moses... Then - in 6th century they built walled monastery of Sta Catherina.
The monastery is open from 9 to 12 only. Entry is free, but they charge 25 pounds for visiting the museum with containing iteresting icons and manuscripts (optional). You can see the ornate church and the a bit dirty chapel of Burning Bush. What is bad? - more and more people want to see the place and in the morning there is a crowd of tourists. It is better to come around 11 am to have little more privacy. Few people climb the rocky slope on the left side for the better picture of the monastery - I did! Hope to show you this picturesque spot soon.
In the afternoon I took the one-per-day bus from St Catherine to Dahab on the Gulf of Aqaba. Bus departs at 1 pm and it took 2 hours to reach Dahab. Cost: 16 pounds. Try to have front seat for the great views!
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Dec 03, 2007 07:00 PM Climbing legendary Mt Sinai
Most of people want to be at the summit of Mt Sinai at sunrise or at sunset. Hmmm... At about 3 am a horde of people from big tourist buses start from the Monastery car park. There are two trails to the top: camel trail (easier) and stone steps (hard). You have to have one local guide per group (50 pounds fee). Take warm closes and some water - there are also shops on the way to buy soft and hot drinks...
Sorry - I wanted to avoid the crowd and I started from the monastery at 11.30 am. The camel trail was completly empty and I had opportunity to enjoy in the silence the the great views of the mountains. I reached the summit after 2 hours non-stop climbing.
This is the place where God delivered his Ten Commandments to Moses... How does it look like? There is little chapel (locked) and little mosque (open, but nothing to see). The highlights of this place are the views of the mountains and the desert on the horizon...
Due to the cloudy sky I decided not to wait for the sunset - it took me another 1.5 h by hard steps to get down to the monastery. Very tiring but what a great day!
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Dec 02, 2007 07:00 PM By bus to Sinai...
There is only one bus per day going from Cairo to St Catherine in the center of desert Sinai Peninsula - it departs from Trugoman Station in Cairo (they call it now Cairo Gateway - just follow brown signs...). The ticket cost 40 pounds (1 USD=5.5 pounds) and it is better to buy it a day in advance. Dont trust them if they will tell you that it is 7 hours drive - it took us 8,5 hours.
We crossed Suez Canal by tunnel, then there was only desert around. This is not luxury, a/c bus - but they do not take more passengers then seats...
Unfortunately the most attractive part of juurney - through the oases was alrady in a dark.
The route ends at Al-Milga village near the mosque. The owners of small hotels and guesthouses are
waiting for travellers. I can recommend Sheikh Musa Camp - you can sleep there in the dorm with shared bath for just 15 pounds. Dinner cost 20, substantial breakfast -15... Great stars over you... Cup of tea at the fire... Good night traveller!
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Dec 01, 2007 07:00 PM Saying -Hallo again!- to the pyramids...
Cairo... Did you ever jump with a backpack to the running bus? That's how it works here. O my poor backbone!...
I'll tell you the true: I hate those huge, crowded, smoky cities - but is is just unexpected stopover...
Egypt is cheap. I stay in The Happyton hotel close to Ramses Square for 50 EGP (like 10 USD) in the single with bath and breakfast included.
In the morning I went by two public buses one by one to Giza - dirty cheap - 1 pound for 2 rides. You can also bargain with taxi driver - will be more then 25... The entry to the area will cost you 50 pounds... Be careful - they try to cheat you on every place: I have been asked 5 pounds for the bottle of coke (it costs 1 pound in the shop)... But the average Egyptian is helpful: they will wait on the stop with you to put you on the right bus.
It is hard to believe... 31 years ago I was crossing Africa from Tanzania to Egypt - then I saw the pyramids for the first time. They are still impressive. Just escape from the tourist crowd and enjoy their magnificence...
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Nov 30, 2007 07:00 PM Last day in Saudia - Jeddah
No video filming! No pictures of the mosques or any govenment objects! Take care about police - they can catch you with your camera and you will be in trouble!. In the desert there is no police but here - in the big town... Take care! It was early morning when I started my walk through the old city - Medina of Jeddah. Jeddah has a long history - millions of pilgrims going to the holy cities passed through this town... I must write - regarding Saudi profits from the oil I expected more. The medina is still alive, but it needs urgent restauration... There are high skyscrapers in the downtown to see... Jeddah has also long, nice corniche - sea boulevard with many lovely mosques and sculptures - it is worth to see but too hot to promenade: 34 deg and high humidity...
They were suprised in Avis agency at the return of the car:
more then 1800 km in theree days!... But the mileage was unlimited... Bye Saudia! I did it!
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Nov 29, 2007 07:00 PM How to enter Madain Saleh - The Second Petra
This ancient city lies in the North of the Kingdom - close to the town Al-Ula. Now I know that apart from the monuments there is a great scenery of red and brown mountains around Al-Ula, so even if Madain Saleh is closed it is worth to visit the area.
Yes, I was reading that everyone need a special permit to visit Madain... 4 days before my arrival to Al-Ula I sent an e-mail to the hotel enclosing my all data and asking them to obtain the permit from the Riyadh... The response was immediate: "We need 15 days to obtaint the permit for you"...
Driving 800 km through the desert I was desperate, but I decided to try anyway... In the Al-Ula hotel the confirm: no permit - visit not possible! I went anyway to the gate of the Madain Saleh (22 km from Al-Ula - great scenery of sands, rocks and palms)... The policemen asked of course for the permit...
Believe me - you can break many barriers if you are open to the people, if you respect them, if they see your situation and determination...
I visited Madain Saleh - the Second Petra! The tombs are not as ornate as in Petra but I think there are more of them... And the scenery is really great. It is big are so in the heat it is not possible to visit all attractions on foot. You can see there also the old railway station of Hejaz Line (Damascus-Medina).
Few people saw great Madain - I was so happy, that I did not care about another 800 or 900 km ahead of me - to go back to Jeddah...
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Nov 28, 2007 07:00 PM Saudia - driving the night through the desert...
First, let me write something good about this kingdom: you can rent here a car for 20 euro per day with unlimited mileage. Second: for 1 USD you can have 6 litres of fuel. I think that only in Turkmenistan you can get more (do you remember my story?)
It was almost the midnight when I rented a car from AVIS (internet booking). It was hot and sticky air in Jeddah. I decided to drive all night... No time to waste - 72 hours only...
They did not have any map of Saudia in the rental agency - even in arabic (bring yours with you). I eventually went out of the city in the direction of Medina. I was not sure if they will not spot me on the first military checkpoint... The same situation was on the next checkpoints - lovely!
Uff... I was aproaching the first one very carefully... And can you imagine? Nobody outside the tent... Road is open... Go... go... At 5 am I was close to the holy city of Medina. Before I I reached the sea of the lights there was a big poster: Non-Muslim only left or right turn. No entrance to the city for non-Muslims. Sorry - left turn!.
Sunrise was nice over the desert. New portion of fuel at the pump (they understood what means "full") big 2l bottle of pepsi for 4 rials and go!
At daylight landscape changed: I saw red mountains, white sands. very few settlement. I reached destination at 9.00 am.
You ask me where I was driving all night? Of cource to Madain Saleh - number one attraction of Saudi Arabia - they call it "Second Petra" via Medina it is little more then 800 km...
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Nov 27, 2007 07:00 PM I am in Saudi Arabia - can you believe it?!!
Yes! Don't ask me now how I did it. They gave me a visa for 3 days only. Now I work hard to see as much as possible...
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