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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Dec 05, 2006 07:00 PM End of the sail - are the tips obligatory?
It is my last day on the boat... Sunny but rough sea. In the morning we landed for only one hour on North Seymour Island famous for the nesting magnificent frigate birds. Can you imagine the big, red baloon under the neck of the male frigate - they want to attract the female on this way...
Our guide distributed two envelopes - tips for the crew and for the guide. Tips are not obligatory, but are expected... I disembarked at Baltra Island where the main airport of archipelago is located.
In the afternoon I took the flight from Baltara back to Quito.
Bye-bye wonderful islands - this will be the highlight of my RTW voyage - for sure!
In Quito I found new nice place to stay: Sunrise Hostal in Calama Street - Gringolandia. They charge only 10 USD per roomy room with bath... Have a rest, sailor!
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Dec 04, 2006 07:00 PM The best view on Galapagos?
There is little but very nice Bartolome Island close to the Santiago... The 600-m trail will take you up to the 114-m view point. And the view is just fantastic! Yes, they show this panorama very often on the postcards and in the tourist brochures. Two bays with the white beaches, emerald and blue waters of the ocean, volcanic peaks of Santiago and the Pinnacle or Sugar Loaf - the lonely rock where we will snorkel...
In the afternoon interesting walk on the fresh (one century old) lava flow on Santiago Island... One of the most interesting days on the Galapagos. Very strong sun - bring your sunscreen otherwise you will suffer!
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Dec 03, 2006 07:00 PM Dancing on the waves - Rabida Is
Is our boat safe? We had an excident... During the inter-island sail one of us - a nice guy from the USA felt down into the sea. Nobody saw this moment. Fortunately one of the crew looking into kilwater recognized the head of unknown man on the wave... Capitan stopped and turned the boat. We approech the feral fellow and took him out the water. Brrr... It is hard to imagine what can happend...
Today we had two landings: on the beach of little Rabida Island and then on Santiago Island. Snorkeling again - the crew is renting mask and snorlek for 10 USD per sail - no reason to carry your own to Galapagos. The bottle of beer on board costs 3 USD (in Quito - 0,90 USD). No comments...
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Dec 02, 2006 07:00 PM The biggest settlement on Galapagos
Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz island. 12000 inhabitants - half of the total population of archipelago live here. A lot of bigger and smaller boats in the marina - little water taxis for one dollar will take you to the jetty.
In the town white houses surrounded by trees in blossom.
Just on the outskirts of the town - Darwin Scientific Center where you can learn for free about the land tortoises and the iguanas.
In the afternoon we took a tour to the highlands of the island. A lot of land tortoises live there in their natural environement. Some male longer then 1 m. Something very special! We have new cook on the boat - maybe there will be something else then rice and meat diet!
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Dec 01, 2006 07:00 PM Galapagos - Floreana Island
Morning landing on the brown beach of Punta Cormorant. Just 50 m from the beach there is lovely lagoon with pink flamingoes. We took a walk to the view point on the little peninsula - what a views of emerald waters and red rocks with cacti trees on the top! On the other side of peninsula there is white beach: 4 pairs of sea turtles were sailing there close to the coast - the guide said the they do sex... Hmmm...
Snorkeling at Corona del Diablo - picturesque group of rocks in the sea. I saw my first shark during this trip there... and a lot of color fish!
In the afternoon we visited Post Office Bay where since more then 2000 years sailors have their courtesy post box. Visitors are checking the box (in fact - the barell) and everybody is taking letters to his next destination... A lot of fun!
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Nov 30, 2006 07:00 PM Punta Suarez - Espaniola Island
We spend days on the island sailing during the night island to island 5-6 hours is normal... The motor of our junk boat makes such a noise that it is difficult to sleep - bring your earplugs with you!
In the morning we landed near the little lighthouse on Punta Suarez. Marine iguanas - a lot of them - were waiting for us. Close - at the sandy beach there were kindergarden for baby sea lions - they learn in the shallow water how to swim guarded by big male - the beachmaster. What a view - you can stay hours and look how they play...
We took a walk alond the coast where we found hundereds nests of marine birds: masked boobies, blue-footed boobies and waves albatrosses. At the end of the trail there is imposing blowhole with the fountain of the water up to 25 m high.
Evening in the picturesque Gardener Bay with sea lions on the long, empty beach...
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Nov 29, 2006 07:00 PM Galapagos - dancing with sea lions...
Visiting Galapagos you are always escorted by licensed guide - he says what is allowed or not - that´s why the animals are not shy if you are close to them. On the Bachas Beach we ware walking just 1 m from the laying sea lions, iguanas... There were also flamingoes in the little lagoon. Sea turtles and mantas were sailing close to our boat... Just fantastic!
Today in the morning we were sailing to the South Plaza Island. Dry landing on the little stone jetty where six or seven sea lions lie... Long walk in the dry landscape whe thousands of sea iguanas live... Many photo opportunities...
In the afternoon we were sailing to Santa Fe Island and snorkeling from the boat. For the first time in my life I was swimming with sea lions. They were very courious seeing me in the water and I really din not know what to do when they come close just looking eye to eye into my mask... No, they are not dangerous... It is one of this experiences of your life. Unforgettable! Of course there were plenty of color fish but there are also other places to see them...
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Nov 28, 2006 07:00 PM Junk boat to Bachas...
Heading to Galapagos you must fly first - the archipelago is located about 1000 km west of the continent. There are 3 flights per day and the RT fare is 391 USD tax inclusive.
After 2-hours flight I landed on the Baltra Island - they dont care about the passport but about 100 USD fee to be paid by every foreigner entering Galapagos - they call it National Park fee. OK! Transfer is included in the price of sailing - my guide was waiting for me in front of the terminal building. The bus took us to the nearest bay where my ¨Cormorant¨ anchored. First sea lions were waiting at the jetty on the banks constructed for passengers. And the boat: -Wow! Can you imagine little, crampy and old boat dancing on the waves? Four crew only... (What you expected - this is the chapest available...) They were just repairing the boat motor - I and 10 other passengers were waiting 4 hours, but thanks God they did it... Welcome aboard! When the motor is on you must shout to the other so they can listen what you want... We are sailing to the Bachas Beach on the Santa Cruz island!
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Nov 27, 2006 07:00 PM ... to Galapagos, Galapagos...
Ecuador. In the morning I took a bus from Riobamba to Quito - road transport is dirty cheap in Ecuador - for 4-hours drive I paid 3,85 USD. And this was not a junk bus like in Pakistan!
I was lucky today: when were passing volcano Chimborazo (completly covered yesterday) I had a lovely view of this majestic mountain with the top covered by snows...
Now I am in Quito. week ago, after landing here I was shopping few hours for the best option of the tour to the legendary Galapagos Islands. Here is a lot of agencies and the prices vary from one place to the other. For same boat and days the prices difference was as high as 90 USD! Finally I bought the best, 8days/7 nights option at PAM tours - they had the best price and the company looks reliable.
So after a night in Gringolandia, tommorrow morning I am flying to the Galapagos to board immediately my boat. It is hard to know how will be the net access there - it is not a liner but a boat for just 10 passengers. Do not panic if the you will get next message from me after a week... Ahoy!
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Nov 26, 2006 07:00 PM How to avoid the fake money...
I am still in Riobamba - Ecuador 2600 m above sea level. The day after elections the situation so far is peaceful... I planed for today excursion to the first hut on the slopes of the volcano Chimborazo - the highest in Ecuador but the coluds are covering the mountains around and since it cost quite a lot of money (transport by rented car 35 USD for two and entry to the Nat.Park 10 USD pp) I decided to change my plan. I visited little village of Guano not far from Riobamba. Guano is famous for the handmade production of the carpets and the nice scenery around.
I already mentioned that the local currency is USD - the US notes, US coins including onedollar and the local centavos with the value of the US cents... If you are bringing here US cash you are OK, but... There is a lot fake dollars in circulation so the shops do not accept 100 USD notes to avoid problem. I saw also in some hostels warnings: we do not accept 100USD notes. Well - the advice is: bring as much as possible small USD denominations. If the locals will give you change in USD ask for the coins - the notes in circulations are so dirty that is is not easy to check if they are fake or not... Good luck!
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