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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Nov 25, 2006 07:00 PM Ecuador - on the roof of the train...
Did you ever travel on the roof of the train? In Ecuador it seems to be one of the main tourist attractions: the narrow gauge Andean Railroad was buillt ant the nnd of 19th century. It goes from Quito in the Highlands to Guayaquil on the coast.
Now only one segment - from Riobamba to Sibambe is open. The most spectacular part: Alausi - Sibambe will take you from the level 2600 m to 1600 m in the breathtaking mountain scenery via the seriesof switchbacks carver in the rock, advancing and reversing... Yes, it is the great fun! I bought my ticket day in advance at Riobamba station - it cost 11 USD to go down to Sibambe and back to Alausi. We started at 7.30 am. Unfortunately on Sunday it was not the steam train but one-carriage ferrobus, but still with the places on the roof. We reached Sibambe at 11 am - taking pictures of the famous rock El Nariz the Diablo (The Devils Nose). Then we returned climbing the mountains to Alausi, where on Sundays they have colorful market. Another photo opportunities...
I returned from Alausi to Riobamba at 3 pm by bus (1,50 USD). A lot of noise on the streets - trumping cars are crawling the city with flags and music. They have presidential elections today!
I saw yesterday trucks with soldiers in the town. I hope the end of the election will be peaceful... You never know - it is South America!
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Nov 24, 2006 07:00 PM Market day in Guaranda - Ecuador
It is worth to stop in Guaranda if you will come there at the end of the week - Saturday is the market day when people from the mountain settlements are coming to the town to sell and buy goods. It is hard to believe but I was the only tourist strolling around the colonial streets and the bazars and enjoying the atmosphere. Ladies from the countryside wear here fancy white hats, embroided blouses and few skirts, one over the other... They carry babies and all loads on their back. They do not like to be photographed so you must be very discret. I took some good photos, but one angry lady was also throwing potatoes - Esculpe!-' was not enough...
In the afternoon I took another bus climbing to the snows: the ride from Guaranda to Riobamba took us 2,5 hours and cost just 2 USD... Tomorrow I want to travel by second famous Andean Railway... I hope the weather will be clear!
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Nov 23, 2006 07:00 PM Riding 4000 m above sea level.
Most people travelling to the south of Ecuador go directly via Ambato to Riobamba. But those who like to travel far from the beaten track have an interesting option: to take the picturesque mountain road climbing to 4000 m from Ambato to Guaranda and to proceed by Guaranda - Riobamba route.
I just did it and now I know why they write in the guide book that it is not the road for faint-hearted people. The driver was driving like crazy man, approeching the serpentines with the speed of 60 km per hour and more... Local people in the bus did not react - for them it is normal... Through the window I saw lamas and vicunias and picturesque villages on the slopes of the mountains.
In Guaranda I find accommodation in Hotel Bolivar (10 USD per room with bath) There was nice view from my window - Guaranda is surrounded by seven hills - sometimes they call it Rome of the Andes.
Food is inexpensive in Ecuador: in the market they charge 4 cents for banana, 40 for papaya, the rolls cost 6 cents pp. The bottle of San Miguel rhum cost just 2,50 USD. But take care ' you are in the high mountains!
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Nov 22, 2006 07:00 PM Banos - new beautiful waterfalls to my collection
In little town of Banos I had a choice of 20 or so hostels - almost all stay empty. First: it is off season, second: tourists are afraid to come here because of the possibility of the new eruption of the volcano. So for 7 USD you can have single room with hot shower and there is daily serwice - new towels etc... I can reccommend Villa Santa Clara - 10 min walk from the centre but very quite area and lovely garden around.
Banos is famous for the waterfalls on the Pastaza River passing by. Taxi drivers offer 2,5 hours trip to the main falls for 20 USD. But you can do it using city buses (urbano) paying 20-50 cents per segment of your ride and walking on foot to the bottom of the falls. The farthest and highest (like 80 m) Devil´s Pot is 14 km from Banos. I spent lovely day visiting all of them, taking pictures and even riding on the primitive skyway 100 m above the canyon. You know - I am waterfall fan so I got few new thundering beauties to my collection. Internet in Banos is much more expensive then in the capital - 2 USD/hour. So it is time to finish - I do not want to leave here the money reserved for tomorrow´s breakfast!
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Nov 21, 2006 07:00 PM Ecuador: Yo soy Gringo Bueno!
Few people on the streets speak english in Equador. It is time to refresh my poor spanish! In the morning I took a taxi from the hostel to the bus terminal. The price for the locals is 2-3 USD. But I am Gringo - the white tourist who in their opinion can pay more. Taxi driver requested 4 USD... He put me not at the terminal but on the exit street from the terminal saying that for him it is forbiden to get to the building. Is this true? Waiting on the street I soon board the bus to Banos. Transport is cheap in Equador - for the 3.5-hours trip I paid 3,75 USD - like for the city taxi ride!. The route took me through Avenida des Volcanos - the valley between two chains of the picturesue peaks unfortunately partly covered by clouds.
Banos in a little, very tourist town located at the bottom of Tungurahua Volcano - it is active since few years - at the end of 1998 - they evacuated all people from the area during eruption. On arrival to the hostel I got instruction how and where evecuate in case of emergency... Funny!
In the local buses there are no tickets: they charged 50 cents from me but only 25 from the locals. How can I say them that I am the poor backpacker, not an american milionaire? Yo soy Gringo Bueno!
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Nov 20, 2006 07:00 PM Welcome to Quito!
It was still dark and pleasantly cold when I boarded plane to Quito - Equador. It was jump from the humid heat on the sea level to the altitude of 2300 m - the capital of Equador lies in the mountains. There were nice views from the plane approaching little airport. Most of the nationalities can get here free entry permit on arrival. Ready! Do not fight with the taxi drivers - walk 100 m left and board city bus. No need to change currency - US dollar is second legal currency. Bus ticket cost 25 US cents - they will give you change partly in US cents and local centavos - the value is the same... Strange, isn´t it? I found accommodation in the little guesthouse¨El Centro del Mundo¨ - they charge just 7 USD for the private room. It is nice place to meet other travellers. I have been to Quito 10 years ago - I found today many changes... New hostels, internet cafes (only 0,80 USD per hour), little eateries... Quito has a lot to offer regarding old, colonial architecture. But I decided to go first to the province, to see the people and the landscapes - tomorrow I´ll try to reach Banos in the south of country...
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Nov 19, 2006 07:00 PM Bonaire - expensive paradise...
Citizens of Bonaire speak papiamento - strange mix of dutch, spanish, english and indian dialects. But thanks God they know also european languages. Everywhere you can pay in USD it is not necessary to buy local guiders in the bank! The budget traveller who wants to visit attractions of the island have a problem: lack of the local transport. Therea re minibuses but they do not go to the tourist places but to the main settlements. Car rental is the best solution - try to find other tourist and rent a junk to share the cost. Petrol is quite expensive - 1,1 USD per liter but the island is small...
I saw salt works in the south of the island and the national park (10 USD entry fee) in the north. Bonaire is also famous for its diving opportunities. I was snorkrling in the crystal-clear waters - the variety of fish is enormous! I found Bonaire Island beautiful, there are still not so many tourist... The only one problem: it is very expensive... I plan to escape to South America tonight!
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Nov 18, 2006 07:00 PM From the chilly Europe to the hot Carribean
The KLM flight from Amsterdam to Bonaire took 10 hours. I was very surprised when our capitain announced just before landing that there is 33 deg. Celsius on Bonaire... Wow! Everybody was looking through the window: there was deep blue Carribean Sea and green island with white beaches: like a paradise after grey Europe. We were walking by foot to the terminal... The immighation control was very quick... If front of the terminal there are kiosks of the car rental agencies. They ask for 50 USD for the little car per day. No... thank you! There is only 1 km to my lodge! Even 1km is far if you carry 20-kg backpack in the 33-deg heat... I reached Aquqrius Lodge after 20 minutes of sweaty walk... Little white house. Bugenvilla flowering trees around... Like a paradise... In this paradise I dream about the shower! There is one close to my room!
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Nov 18, 2006 07:00 PM From the chilly Europe to the hot Carribean
The KLM flight from Amsterdam to Bonaire took 10 hours. I was very surprised when our capitain announced just before landing that there is 33 deg. Celsius on Bonaire... Wow! Everybody was looking through the window: there was deep blue Carribean Sea and green island with white beaches: like a paradise after grey Europe. We were walking by foot to the terminal... The immighation control was very quick... If front of the terminal there are kiosks of the car rental agencies. They ask for 50 USD for the little car per day. No... thank you! There is only 1 km to my lodge! Even 1km is far if you carry 20-kg backpack in the 33-deg heat... I reached Aquqrius Lodge after 20 minutes... Little white house. Bugenvilla flowering trees around... Like a paradise... I this paradise dream about the shower!
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Nov 16, 2006 07:00 PM It is today! - new great voyage...
My old backpack is ready... New great adventure is just before me! I want to travel for the seventh time around the globe - taking the new, interesting route. The skeptics ask me: are you really able to find so many different routes for the round-the-world voyages? Yes, I am! My seventh expedition around the globe will take me first of all to the enchanting islands: Galapagos, Hawaii, East Fiji, Halong Bay, Andaman Is. Maybe it will be also possible to reach Christmas Island on the Pacific (I still have a problem with a visa). l plan to be back in March 2007. I plan to land tomorrow already on the tiny island Bonaire on the Caribbean. New expedition, new challenge... Keep your fingers crossed, please!
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