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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Nov 28, 2006 07:00 PM Junk boat to Bachas...
Heading to Galapagos you must fly first - the archipelago is located about 1000 km west of the continent. There are 3 flights per day and the RT fare is 391 USD tax inclusive.
After 2-hours flight I landed on the Baltra Island - they dont care about the passport but about 100 USD fee to be paid by every foreigner entering Galapagos - they call it National Park fee. OK! Transfer is included in the price of sailing - my guide was waiting for me in front of the terminal building. The bus took us to the nearest bay where my ¨Cormorant¨ anchored. First sea lions were waiting at the jetty on the banks constructed for passengers. And the boat: -Wow! Can you imagine little, crampy and old boat dancing on the waves? Four crew only... (What you expected - this is the chapest available...) They were just repairing the boat motor - I and 10 other passengers were waiting 4 hours, but thanks God they did it... Welcome aboard! When the motor is on you must shout to the other so they can listen what you want... We are sailing to the Bachas Beach on the Santa Cruz island!
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Nov 27, 2006 07:00 PM ... to Galapagos, Galapagos...
Ecuador. In the morning I took a bus from Riobamba to Quito - road transport is dirty cheap in Ecuador - for 4-hours drive I paid 3,85 USD. And this was not a junk bus like in Pakistan!
I was lucky today: when were passing volcano Chimborazo (completly covered yesterday) I had a lovely view of this majestic mountain with the top covered by snows...
Now I am in Quito. week ago, after landing here I was shopping few hours for the best option of the tour to the legendary Galapagos Islands. Here is a lot of agencies and the prices vary from one place to the other. For same boat and days the prices difference was as high as 90 USD! Finally I bought the best, 8days/7 nights option at PAM tours - they had the best price and the company looks reliable.
So after a night in Gringolandia, tommorrow morning I am flying to the Galapagos to board immediately my boat. It is hard to know how will be the net access there - it is not a liner but a boat for just 10 passengers. Do not panic if the you will get next message from me after a week... Ahoy!
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Nov 26, 2006 07:00 PM How to avoid the fake money...
I am still in Riobamba - Ecuador 2600 m above sea level. The day after elections the situation so far is peaceful... I planed for today excursion to the first hut on the slopes of the volcano Chimborazo - the highest in Ecuador but the coluds are covering the mountains around and since it cost quite a lot of money (transport by rented car 35 USD for two and entry to the Nat.Park 10 USD pp) I decided to change my plan. I visited little village of Guano not far from Riobamba. Guano is famous for the handmade production of the carpets and the nice scenery around.
I already mentioned that the local currency is USD - the US notes, US coins including onedollar and the local centavos with the value of the US cents... If you are bringing here US cash you are OK, but... There is a lot fake dollars in circulation so the shops do not accept 100 USD notes to avoid problem. I saw also in some hostels warnings: we do not accept 100USD notes. Well - the advice is: bring as much as possible small USD denominations. If the locals will give you change in USD ask for the coins - the notes in circulations are so dirty that is is not easy to check if they are fake or not... Good luck!
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Nov 25, 2006 07:00 PM Ecuador - on the roof of the train...
Did you ever travel on the roof of the train? In Ecuador it seems to be one of the main tourist attractions: the narrow gauge Andean Railroad was buillt ant the nnd of 19th century. It goes from Quito in the Highlands to Guayaquil on the coast.
Now only one segment - from Riobamba to Sibambe is open. The most spectacular part: Alausi - Sibambe will take you from the level 2600 m to 1600 m in the breathtaking mountain scenery via the seriesof switchbacks carver in the rock, advancing and reversing... Yes, it is the great fun! I bought my ticket day in advance at Riobamba station - it cost 11 USD to go down to Sibambe and back to Alausi. We started at 7.30 am. Unfortunately on Sunday it was not the steam train but one-carriage ferrobus, but still with the places on the roof. We reached Sibambe at 11 am - taking pictures of the famous rock El Nariz the Diablo (The Devils Nose). Then we returned climbing the mountains to Alausi, where on Sundays they have colorful market. Another photo opportunities...
I returned from Alausi to Riobamba at 3 pm by bus (1,50 USD). A lot of noise on the streets - trumping cars are crawling the city with flags and music. They have presidential elections today!
I saw yesterday trucks with soldiers in the town. I hope the end of the election will be peaceful... You never know - it is South America!
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Nov 24, 2006 07:00 PM Market day in Guaranda - Ecuador
It is worth to stop in Guaranda if you will come there at the end of the week - Saturday is the market day when people from the mountain settlements are coming to the town to sell and buy goods. It is hard to believe but I was the only tourist strolling around the colonial streets and the bazars and enjoying the atmosphere. Ladies from the countryside wear here fancy white hats, embroided blouses and few skirts, one over the other... They carry babies and all loads on their back. They do not like to be photographed so you must be very discret. I took some good photos, but one angry lady was also throwing potatoes - Esculpe!-' was not enough...
In the afternoon I took another bus climbing to the snows: the ride from Guaranda to Riobamba took us 2,5 hours and cost just 2 USD... Tomorrow I want to travel by second famous Andean Railway... I hope the weather will be clear!
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Nov 23, 2006 07:00 PM Riding 4000 m above sea level.
Most people travelling to the south of Ecuador go directly via Ambato to Riobamba. But those who like to travel far from the beaten track have an interesting option: to take the picturesque mountain road climbing to 4000 m from Ambato to Guaranda and to proceed by Guaranda - Riobamba route.
I just did it and now I know why they write in the guide book that it is not the road for faint-hearted people. The driver was driving like crazy man, approeching the serpentines with the speed of 60 km per hour and more... Local people in the bus did not react - for them it is normal... Through the window I saw lamas and vicunias and picturesque villages on the slopes of the mountains.
In Guaranda I find accommodation in Hotel Bolivar (10 USD per room with bath) There was nice view from my window - Guaranda is surrounded by seven hills - sometimes they call it Rome of the Andes.
Food is inexpensive in Ecuador: in the market they charge 4 cents for banana, 40 for papaya, the rolls cost 6 cents pp. The bottle of San Miguel rhum cost just 2,50 USD. But take care ' you are in the high mountains!
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Nov 22, 2006 07:00 PM Banos - new beautiful waterfalls to my collection
In little town of Banos I had a choice of 20 or so hostels - almost all stay empty. First: it is off season, second: tourists are afraid to come here because of the possibility of the new eruption of the volcano. So for 7 USD you can have single room with hot shower and there is daily serwice - new towels etc... I can reccommend Villa Santa Clara - 10 min walk from the centre but very quite area and lovely garden around.
Banos is famous for the waterfalls on the Pastaza River passing by. Taxi drivers offer 2,5 hours trip to the main falls for 20 USD. But you can do it using city buses (urbano) paying 20-50 cents per segment of your ride and walking on foot to the bottom of the falls. The farthest and highest (like 80 m) Devil´s Pot is 14 km from Banos. I spent lovely day visiting all of them, taking pictures and even riding on the primitive skyway 100 m above the canyon. You know - I am waterfall fan so I got few new thundering beauties to my collection. Internet in Banos is much more expensive then in the capital - 2 USD/hour. So it is time to finish - I do not want to leave here the money reserved for tomorrow´s breakfast!
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Nov 21, 2006 07:00 PM Ecuador: Yo soy Gringo Bueno!
Few people on the streets speak english in Equador. It is time to refresh my poor spanish! In the morning I took a taxi from the hostel to the bus terminal. The price for the locals is 2-3 USD. But I am Gringo - the white tourist who in their opinion can pay more. Taxi driver requested 4 USD... He put me not at the terminal but on the exit street from the terminal saying that for him it is forbiden to get to the building. Is this true? Waiting on the street I soon board the bus to Banos. Transport is cheap in Equador - for the 3.5-hours trip I paid 3,75 USD - like for the city taxi ride!. The route took me through Avenida des Volcanos - the valley between two chains of the picturesue peaks unfortunately partly covered by clouds.
Banos in a little, very tourist town located at the bottom of Tungurahua Volcano - it is active since few years - at the end of 1998 - they evacuated all people from the area during eruption. On arrival to the hostel I got instruction how and where evecuate in case of emergency... Funny!
In the local buses there are no tickets: they charged 50 cents from me but only 25 from the locals. How can I say them that I am the poor backpacker, not an american milionaire? Yo soy Gringo Bueno!
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Nov 20, 2006 07:00 PM Welcome to Quito!
It was still dark and pleasantly cold when I boarded plane to Quito - Equador. It was jump from the humid heat on the sea level to the altitude of 2300 m - the capital of Equador lies in the mountains. There were nice views from the plane approaching little airport. Most of the nationalities can get here free entry permit on arrival. Ready! Do not fight with the taxi drivers - walk 100 m left and board city bus. No need to change currency - US dollar is second legal currency. Bus ticket cost 25 US cents - they will give you change partly in US cents and local centavos - the value is the same... Strange, isn´t it? I found accommodation in the little guesthouse¨El Centro del Mundo¨ - they charge just 7 USD for the private room. It is nice place to meet other travellers. I have been to Quito 10 years ago - I found today many changes... New hostels, internet cafes (only 0,80 USD per hour), little eateries... Quito has a lot to offer regarding old, colonial architecture. But I decided to go first to the province, to see the people and the landscapes - tomorrow I´ll try to reach Banos in the south of country...
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Nov 19, 2006 07:00 PM Bonaire - expensive paradise...
Citizens of Bonaire speak papiamento - strange mix of dutch, spanish, english and indian dialects. But thanks God they know also european languages. Everywhere you can pay in USD it is not necessary to buy local guiders in the bank! The budget traveller who wants to visit attractions of the island have a problem: lack of the local transport. Therea re minibuses but they do not go to the tourist places but to the main settlements. Car rental is the best solution - try to find other tourist and rent a junk to share the cost. Petrol is quite expensive - 1,1 USD per liter but the island is small...
I saw salt works in the south of the island and the national park (10 USD entry fee) in the north. Bonaire is also famous for its diving opportunities. I was snorkrling in the crystal-clear waters - the variety of fish is enormous! I found Bonaire Island beautiful, there are still not so many tourist... The only one problem: it is very expensive... I plan to escape to South America tonight!
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