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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Mar 07, 2006 07:00 PM The spy in the group
Day at see. Moderate swell. Only icebergs around.... It is 43 of us on this expedition. After few days at sea we know better
each other. Fellows ask me many questions. Where and when did I travel... What I do... Some of them are nice and friendly.
But there are also wealthy people from the western countries who cannot accept that there is a guy from Eastern Europe who
travels so much (usually much more then they do) "-You must be a spy!" Do you think it is a good joke? Or maybe it is not a
joke?. Now you understand why I do not like in the group....
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Mar 06, 2006 07:00 PM 1011 miles to Bouvet Island
In the program of our expedition there was also sailing around the Montagu Island on Sth Sandwich. In November 2005 the
satelite registered on the picture volcanic eruption on this island. I thought it could be interesting to see if there is
still any volcanic activity and the new piece of land formed by fresh lava. But when we came close to the Montagu the
visibility was so poor that the leader decided to cancel this circumnavigation. Bad luck! We said goodbye to South Sandwich
and took a course to Bouvet Island.
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Mar 05, 2006 07:00 PM Wet landing on South Sandwich
Very few expeditions sail to the South Sandwich Islands located east of South Georgia. It is uninhabited archipelago of 11
volcanic islands. In the morning we approached one of them - Saunders Island. Already from the ship I saw large colonies of
chinstrap penguins. Slopes of centrally located cone - the Mt Michael are covered by ice. The glacier is almost touching the
sea. Between the cliff and the ocean is a narrow strip of the black beach occupied by chinstrap penguins. This was the place
where our boss decided to land. I jumped to the first zodiac. On the approach to the beach I found that it won't be easy
landing. Once on the coast we stated to jump one by one to the water. I jumped too late - old lady with limited abilities
just blocked my way out. Then I got my first wave from the back. Finally I reached the beach in thr next minute via the
other side of the zodiac. Wet, wet,wet... But backpack is opened , camera taken from the plastic bag - I started to take
pictures of Chinstraps and the coast. After the quarter boss decided to stop landings and to evacuate us due to the
increasing wind. Jump to the zodiac! Yes, sir! I jumped in. But before the other did the same I got two strong waves, and
twice felt down in the zodiac. There were 40 cm of water when we get of the shore dancing on the waves. After 10 min I was
on the ship throwing off my wet stuff. Hot shower! Oh, yes - this is not a cruise! But what a adventure!
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Mar 04, 2006 07:00 PM Rolling again on the South Atlantic
Day at sea... Time for laundry, notes and satelite e-mail home. The ocean is unpredictible. Two days ago when the ship
arrived to Stromness Bay the weather was sunny but when we lined-up on the deck for the embarcation to the zodiacs suddenly strong wind appeared and the landing was cancelled. Now we are on our way to South Sandwich Islands. They are well known for their notorious bad weather and cloud cover. The ocean is very rough today - breakfast took us much more time then always...
The plates in the dining room are just flying. But I still hope that the tomorrow's landing on this unknown land will be
possible. Just keep your fingers crossed, please. Greetings to all of you from the rough Antarctic Ocean!
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Mar 03, 2006 07:00 PM Gold Harbour in the sun -South Georgia
In the early morning I saw probably the most beautiful panoramic view of South Georgia - snowy peaks, glaciers, green slopes and turquoise waters of Gold Harbour... Everything in the gold of sharp morning sun. It is hard to say that the leader of the expedition is a good organizer. After breakfast we were waiting one hour for zodiac transfer ashore. Waste of time! King penguin and seals didn't dissappoint us - they were waiting on the beach. I saw there also a big colony of the roaring from time to time elephant seals... Fantastic light for the pictures - they will be excellent! In the afternoon the ship sailed to the famous Drygalski Fiord at the southern end of S.Georgia. The scenery there is very dramatic - high mountains are towering the sound. The ship is sailing to the end of the fiord, turning there at the face of the huge glacier. Sorry, no sun here just wind and rain. Bad luck!
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Mar 02, 2006 07:00 PM Grytviken - party with a governer
South Georgia is wildlife paradise! Already before breakfast we landed in Fortuna Bay to take another pictures of the
antarctic animals. I was wandering again between thousands of king penguins and seals. I saw there also rheindeers imported
by Norwegians from the Arctic. In the afternoon we landed in the empty "capital" of South Georgia - Grytviken. There are
nicely preserved remains of the whaling station. Also interesting museum and little church, post office to buy stamps and cemetary of the whaklers with the grave of the famous explores Ernest Shackelton. In the evening the governer joined us for the BBQ on the deck of our ship. "Party in Antarctica" was OK but it was so cold
that I escaped soon to the cabin.
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Mar 01, 2006 07:00 PM South Georgia on the horizon!
Sunny morning. The group of whales is blowing in the distance of half a mile.
First fur seals are jumping of the ocean surface near the ship. Icebergs. In the afternoon I saw for the first time snowy
peaks of South Georgia rising from the
ocean. In the late afternoon we had our first landingat Salisburry Plain. I met my first, golden-headed king pingwins. Not a single ones - thousands of them!!. They were staying on the beach, marching to the rookery where maybe 10 000 of their brothers and sisters were calling parents to bring them a food. Herds of youngfur seals were playing nearby trying to check who are these big creatures who came ashore from the ship. They bark, but are not dangerous...
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Feb 28, 2006 07:00 PM Rolling on the South Atlantic...
A cup of strong tea or coffee in the morning - it is free available day and night. Only ocean around... Our ship is
pitching down and jumping up due to the large swell. The best view is from thebridge - it is open to the passengers at any
time. The crew is nice - I started to speak russian - they were quite surprised.
Only waves and wandering albatrosses around. Since two days I did not see any other ship. With a speed of 11-12
knots we should reach South Georgia tomorrow.
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Feb 27, 2006 07:00 PM 1400 km swells of Atlantic ahead!
I didn't sleep much.. Rolling during the night was horrible! Can you imagine: every few minutes my body was sliding from the
pillow to the end of my berth and then in the next minute when opposite rolling was coming my body was sliding back to the
pillow. Again and again. Funny? Yes, during first quarter only... It is hard sailing. Going along corridors of the ship you
are swayed by the motion from one side of your passage to the other. Watch your head, your hands and the rest of your body! The chairs and the trash bin are wandering around the cabin during the night.
From Falklands to South Georgia we have 1400 km...
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Feb 26, 2006 07:00 PM Through the landmines to Stanley...
Wet landing from zodiacs at Long Island - close to the lonely farm. The
hospitable farmer showed us how he takes care of his
horses and sheeps. Interesting! He has hard life far from the world...
Electricity only from the local, oil-powered
mini-power station. Then the charter bus took us (abous an hour drive) to the capital of the archipelago. The landscape of
the grassy hills is rather monotonous... Around Stanley (or Port Stanley) we saw many fenced mine fields - remains from the 1982 war. The city of pastel - painted houses is located along the sound - with some 3 km from one end to other. There is interesting museum (entry cost 3 pounds), anglican cathedral and catholic church to see. Collectors like their stamps and
coins...
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