|
|
You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Oct 24, 2005 02:00 PM Crossing the border to Georgia...
It was easy: at 10 am I took minibus (7000 manats) from Shaki to Balakan. Orange trees and mountain views on the way... In Balakan big, old red bus was waiting for the people going to the border - 15 km away... When full it departed to Georgia... I paid 3000 manats and changed at the bus stop the tiny rest of my Azeri money...
On the Azerbaijan side the formalities were quick and simple: they even did not ask what I have in my backpack. Then I crossed border bridge on foot. Welcome to Georgia! Yes, I visited more then 200 countries but it never happened before: after formalities the customs officer took me in his car to the first village - Lagodekhi helping me to find onward transport...
What a people!
|
Oct 23, 2005 02:00 PM Sleeping in the caravansarai...
It was frosty in the early morning when I walked cobbled-stone street of Lahic going to the public bus... The ride down the valley to the nearest town of Ismaila cost 3000 manats and gives you a chance to travel in the crowd of local people... Real adventure... From Ismaila I took shared taxi to Shaki - once capital of the khanate. I took my chance - there is hotel in Shaki located in authentic, old caravansarai... Its beautiful courtyard looks more like monastery.... I got last expensive cell for 30000 manats... What a experience!
There is Khans's Palace to see in Shaki fortress - beautifully restored just year ago. They charge 4000 m for entry but it is worth much more! The paintings on the inside walls are very impressive and there is even English-speaking guide!
|
Oct 22, 2005 02:00 PM In the sunny mountains of Azerbaijan...
Main bus station in Baku is located just 200 m downhill from "20 January" subway station. No timetable on display but if you know Russian it is simple: just ask any driver - they will direct you to your minibus. I took one going to Qebele (15000 manats) - they left me at the Lahic crossroad. Then I hitchhiked up the beautiful mountain valley.
Lahic lies about 2000 m above sea level. The 20-km gravel road up the valley is very picturesque with snowy peaks on the horizon. In the village you will find houses made of stone, coppersmith workshops, carpet makers and interesting museum in the former mosque. People are nice - they offer accommodation in the private homes for just 20 000 manats. Breakfast is included... For me it was one of the most interesting places in Azerbaijan...
|
Oct 21, 2005 02:00 PM Atesgah Fire Temple... the fire is still there!
Back in Baku I decided to visit Atesgah Temple - sacred place to the Zoroastrians since 6th century... It is one of two only such sites (the other is in Yazd)...
To get there take minibus 254 from Baku Railway Station area. It cost only 1000 manat ( 1 USD is worth here 4600 manats). The landscape just outside Baku is horrible - fallen ex-soviet industry, a lot of pollution...
But the temple is very interesting place - it is well restored widh the cells for the pilgrims, nice dioramas showing ceremonies and flame of gas coming out from the ground...
They charge 5000 manats for entry plus 10000 if you want to take the pictures but the place is so unusual that it is worth!
|
Oct 20, 2005 02:00 PM Rainy Friday in Azerbaijan
So far I had excellent weather (even in the stormy day it was sunny). Today I took a bus (8000 manat - 3 hours) to the town of Quba in the north of Azerbaijan. Quba itself is nothing special - provincial town placed on two sides of lazy river... On the right bank there is Jewish quarter Krasna Svoboda with some fancy, new houses - something unusual...
Quba is base point for the excursions to the mountains - by 4WD car (250000 per car) you can reach from here Xunolak - the village located 2700 m above sea level. Bad luck! It was raining when I reached Quba. They said it is snowing up there - I decided not to go up. I spend the night in Quba in the house of friendly local people... Nice experience... They are poor but very hospitable... Whole family sleep in one large room decorated with bright carpets. No running water, pit toilet in the garden but what a atmosphere when you seat there in the cold evening sipping black tea... Just unforgetable!
|
Oct 19, 2005 02:00 PM BAKU - a day in the new world...
After weeks in the Central Asia it is like different world. Nice shops, Mc Donalds, pretty girls, kind policemen... But in the building next to the hotel I can still buy "lepioshka" (flat bread) like in Uzbekistan or Turkmenistan - it cost 1000 manat.
From my ARAZ HOTEL - located little off the centre I can take minibus for just 1000 manat to be in the city in 10 minutes.
I took a long walk to the old town. There is special athmosphere in the narrow streets, under wooden balconies and the minarets. There is Shah Palace (very small - I expected more) to visit - they charge 5000 manat for entry. But the symbol of the city is the 7th century' Maiden Tower. Around the tower you will find carpet sellers and souvenir's stalls. It is the end of the season - I saw few tourists - and it is even better because I hate the crowd. In the internet cafe they charge 3000 manat per hour - there were no internet access in Turkmenistan so it is the time to response to your letters - thanks for all of them... Tomorrow I plan to take a bus to the north of Azerbaijan hoping to see there beautiful mountains...
|
Oct 18, 2005 02:00 PM Sailing Caspian Sea...
The ferries on the Caspian Sea have no timetable. They said: it will be around 12 hours sail... There is no shop or bar or restaurant onboard so you must bring all your food with you... What you can expect is boiled water from the staff mess to make your tea... I did not see any sockets in the cabins or corridors so the electric tea/coffee makers are useless...
I survived... In the afternoon we pass famous sea oil platforms. At 4 pm I saw for the first time (from the sea) the capital of Azerbaijan and at 5pm - after 15 hours of sailing we disembarked the ship.
Border formalities are simple here - they x-ray your luggage so there is no need to open the backpack. No currency exchange at the poor "Terminal". But it is not far from the town - I walked about 25 minutes to the last expensive Araz Hotel (just turn right on the main coastal street). They offered me a bed in the triple room for 6,50 USD. The exchange both is nearby. They pay 4600 manat for 1 USD. Good night in Azerbaijan!
|
Oct 17, 2005 02:00 PM The only tourist in Turkmenistan?
Turkmenbashi (former Krasnovodsk) is important harbour on the eastern coast of the Caspian Sea... It has picturesque location - at the bottom of the dramatic mountains... They write in the guidebooks that every day there are ferries departing from Turkmenbashi to Baku in Azerbaijan...
The fifth day in Turkmenistan... Can you imagine? I did not see any other tourist in this country!
In the early morning I came by taxi to the ferry terminal. It is located well off the town - they charge 15000 manat per ride.
The terminal was empty. I asked bored policeman: Where is the ferry? -Due the stormy weather the ship did not arrive! - Any hope? We do not know! Look how strong is the wind! Wow! I do not want to overstay my visa!... What can I expect from Turkmenbashi administration?
I was waiting hours and hours... Fortunately the ferry arrived in the evening. I bought a last expensive ticket (45 USD plus 2 USD formalities, plus 2500 manat insurance (keep some manats ready) passed through nasty customs control and finally happy boarded the ship... The purser offered me single cabin with bath for just 10 USD extra - it was worth. We finally departed at 2 am but I already had my stamp in the passport...
|
Oct 16, 2005 02:00 PM Golden monuments of Ashgabat...
Did you hear about Ashgabat? It is located only 10 km from the Iranian border. In the central part of the city you will see a lot of new, futuristic buildings... Golden dome of the Presidential Palace, the Neutrality Arch - huge column with golden statue of Turkmenbashi at the top. There is also brand- new Independence Monument surrounded by giant fountains. It is housing the Museum of Turkmen Values (entry fee for foreigners - 10 USD). And they still build a lot... - the XXIst century was announced The Golden Age of Turkmenistan. I did not see any other capital city like that in the world. Distances are large so it is better to use taxi to go around - they charge just 10000 (US 40 cents) per ride.
Tomorrow I must leave country - I cannot overstay my visa! in the afternoon I took a multi - hours ride to the coast of Caspian Sea - first to Balkanabat (it is easier to go in stages), then to Turkmenbashi... There is many check-points on the roads. I have been already registered more then 20 times!... But if your visa is OK there is no reason to be afraid - it is just formality and young soldiers are friendly... And that's what I like most in this country - the people: hospitable, friendly and helpful!...
|
Oct 15, 2005 02:00 PM Turkmenbashi, Turkmenbashi...
Central part of Mary is imposing: wide, empty streets, parks, flowers. In the morning I took a 10-min walk to the Niyazov Park to photograph another monument of the President. It is again gold-painted, surrounded by fountains and rabats of roses. In the same park there is another monument - The Mother of Turkmenbashi... Great...
It is Sunday - the market day at the Tekke bazar located just 4 km from the town. Any minibus marked " Jarmark" will take you there. Crowd of people, smells, noise... There is still the atmosphere of oriental bazaar... I went to the carpet section with many colors and patterns - this is the place to be! They sell there also traditional Turkmen hats - for just 50000 manat -like 2 USD - nice souvenirs from this country...
In the afternoon I took again share taxi to the capital city. Due to the low cost of the petrol transport is dirty cheap here: 65000 (less then 3 USD) manat for 4-hours taxi ride. I found last expensive Dayhan Hotel - they charge 20 USD per twin room with bath - it is conveniently located in the centre...
|
Page:
288 289 290 291 292 293 294 295 296 297 298
|
|
|
