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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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May 15, 2005 02:00 PM Southern-most point of Africa...
Once in Cape Town it is the must to take an excursion to the Cape of The Good Hope... Many local tour operators offer such for 400 rands... Sorry, it is not for budget travellers. There are also rental agencies in CPT who offer smal cars for 170 rands per day - if you have companions it will be the best solution. Yes, I rented little corsa and drove to the Cape... Western coastal road is very picturesque. The most impressing segment: Chapmans Peak Drive is toll (20 rands per car). Then at the national park gate you will pay again the entry fee: 35 rands... In fact there are two caps divided by nice beach in the bay: Cape Point with lighthouse and much lower coastal rock or Cape of The Good Hope. Most people climb the first one (15 min by comfortable path or cable car -31 rands return). Be prepared for the strong wind and stunning views!
Few visitors know that both above capes are not the southern-most points of African Continent... You must drive further east - almost 200 km to reach Cape Agulhas - the real place where Indian Ocean and Atlantic Ocean meet... It was long drive but I managed to be on Cape Agulhas before sunset. The landscape is different there: the coast is also rocky but the cape itself is almost flat... There is nice, old lighthouse dated 1848 to visit and the monument to be photographed...
I wanted to travel Africa end to end - and I did - this was my bottom end!
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May 14, 2005 02:00 PM Cape Town - one of the most beautiful...
I have been already to Cape Town some 20 years ago... It it always worth to come back because in my opinion regarding landscape it is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Located at the bottom of Table Mountain, with picturesque beaches in the suburbs... I stay at the Castle Street Backpackers (corner Castle and Long St) conveniently located in the center close to the bus station. It is very cosy place and they charge 75 rands per bed in the dormitory... 1 USD is worth 6 rands. Cable Car to the top of Table Mointain costs already 110 rands for the round trip. But I did not take the ride - it is already autumn here and the clouds cover the top of the table. I enjoyed walk around the city, old Waterfront and the beaches... Tomorrow I plan to visit again Cape of the Good Hope.
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May 12, 2005 02:00 PM By crowded bus to Port Elisabeth...
Translux bus ticket from Durban to Port Elizabeth cost me 315 rands. I made a choice of this luxury service because it is long, 15-hours ride. Thy same company has also cheaper buses - "City to city" but they are not comfortable and crowded...
The first stage of the trip was nice: there were only 6 passengers on the double-decker bus... Coastal landscapes were beautiful... Then - on the first stop driver informed that the bus is broken and we should change to the the City to City bus who just arrived to the stop. The engine was OK... Tyres OK... So what? Well - they probably did not want to send big bus with 6 passengers to distant /more then 1500 km Cape Town/. And they invented that the bus is "broken"... We changed to the other bus: crowded, delayed... Any compensation? - You can write to the menagement in Pretoria!
Don't travel Translux!
I was happy when we reached Port Elizabeth at 9.30 pm and I found cosy Backpackers Accommodation on Prospect Hill. It is just 15 min walk from the station - but all uphill. It is lovely place - well worth to recommend - the bed in the empty dorm cost just 70 rands...
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May 11, 2005 02:00 PM Durban - RSA - not so safe
The bus from Maputo arrived to Durban in the late afternoon. I know Durban from my previous voyages. The closest bacpackers accommodation to the bus station is Banana Backpackers on Pine Street. It is off season now and they are almost empty. They charge 60 rands for dorm bed or 80 if you want private room. Nick at the reception handed me out the map of the city marking with pen areas who are dangerous to walk even in the daylight... Well - it is already different Africa. I was feeling much safer in the remote villages in Zambia or Mozambique then in this big metropolis... I took a walk to the Emanuel cathedral - close to the Victoria Street Market.... At the dusk they are closing all shops (because of safety?) - so buy your food earlier!!!
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May 10, 2005 02:00 PM Resting in Maputo...
Bus transport in Mozambique is cheap: I took the direct bus from Inhambane to Maputo - only 180000 meticais for 9 hours of travel. It is less then 9 USD. When I entered Mozambique they paid 20000 per dollar, today they paid 23000 so do not change all your money on entry.
It was the trip from tiny fishing village to the big concrete blocks... The capital city has good internet connections /you pay 30000 per hour/, more goods in the shops /worth to buy here the supply if you are heading north/... White cathedral and colonial Polana Hotel are the landmarks not to be missed. I stay in the center of the town - in the Pensao Central they charge 250000 per crampy single room /take a back room and keep the net windows closed - they have not mosquito nets on the beds/. I made today a big laundry before the final stage of my journey: tomorrow I plan to enter RSA by bus - the Cape Town is closer and closer... Now it is already my fourth month on tha african roads. No, I don't feel tired... But yes - I feel the homesick. There must be beautiful spring already in Poland....
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May 08, 2005 02:00 PM Tofo Beach in Mozambique...
They say it is the most beautiful beach in Mozambique...
To get to Tofo - small fishing village - from the north you must get off at Maxixe, take the ferry /10000 meticais/ to Inhambane, walk to the market and take a cramped chapa microbus to Tofo. They charge 10000+10000 for the backpack.
The best place to stay in Tofo for the backpacker is Fatima's Nest - the camp is located just on the dunes. They charge 110000 meticais for dorm bed or 300000 per your own reed bungalow.
Yes, it is ver beautiful place - the beach is 4 km long, clean and wide /at low tide/ and almost empty. You can buy fish at the village and cook it yourself at the comunal kitchen... The ocean is roaring at the high tide so do not forget to bring your earplugs if you are sensitive... The beer costs 25000 per big bottle... There are people who stay here for weeks enjoying the sea and the sun...
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May 07, 2005 02:00 PM Coral gardens of Bazaruto Archipelago...
Little coastal town of Vilanculos in the base for the visi to famous Bazaruto Archipelago - one of the main tourist attractions of Mozambique... I found accommodation at Zombie Cucumber camp site /150000 meticais in a dorm with materess on the flor and mosquito net/ Alternatively you can stay in the 2-3 bed chalet /500000 per chalet - overpriced if you are alone/. There is bar and nice garden around... If you can walk 1 km farther along the beach stay at Smugglers - they are less expensive, have a pool and rooms with bath.
But the main attraction here is a day trip to the islands. There are 5 of them. You can take traditional dhow to the nearest island, but it takes a time and you are dependent on the winds...
I can recommend Mr Renoir. He charged 50 USD per day tour by motor Zodiac and we visited 3 islands. The snorkeling on the 2-mile reef was excelent! - it was one of the best places around the world... What a variety of coral and fish! Don't miss to climb the high sand dune on the Bazaruto Island - the view from the top is just fantastic!
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May 05, 2005 02:00 PM I saw Hilton Hotel in Beira
Thy say that Beira is second largest city in Mozambique...
It is important transport hub... That's why I am here...
There were Hilton Hotel opened in Beira just before independence...
Now the former Hilton is inhabited by some 2000 homeless people - no electricity, no windows, no hope...
There is nothing to see except this ghost luxury hotel and the poor cathedral... I spend a night at inexpensive Pensao Moderna close to the cathedral - they charge 250 000 meticais for the small room without bath.
Intercity buses leave very early in the morning - it is the rule in Mozambique. I get up at 3 am and walk to Ave Danial Napatima - the minibus was waiting. I got one seat to Vilanculos for 250 000. All male passengers pushed the minibus, the motor eventually started and we went to Vilanculos - 9 hours drive - be patient, it is Africa!
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May 03, 2005 02:00 PM Ibo Island - Querimba Archipelago -what a place!
First get up early and take 5 am chapa frem the fishing village to Quissanga. It will cost 100000 meticais and a lot of patiency - the country road is in very poor condition: a lot of bumps, dust, sand. It takes 5 hours to the landing point where you will catch the real dhow used by local people to get to the Ibo Island. They charge only 20 000 for 2-3 hours trip under the old sail... Just fantastic! Mangrove chanels, sea birds, locals chating on the boat in the strange language... Embarcation and landing are of course wet... But what a place you will reach!!. Porto Ibo was lovely Portugeese setlement during colonial days. Now you will see there a lot of ruins overgrown by tropical vegetattion like Angkor... The rows of fancy columns. The canons in the old fort. Closed church, remaind of the gardens and the plaza... Silence... Remotness... No doctor, no restaurant... You can stay in lovely Bella Vista Lodge /250 000 in the 2-beds dorm/ and enjoy their beautiful sunsets... Very few people saw them!
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May 01, 2005 02:00 PM Pemba - Northern Mozambique
Very few tourists travel to the North of Mozambique - it is off the main trails. But if you want to visit the remote Querimba Archipelago - this is the gateway...
From Ilha Moz take a 5 am chapa to Namialo (hefty 60000) - then you will catch there a regular bus /110 000 for ticket/ to Pemba. It is provincial town - the moost interesting part - traditional fishing village of Patiquette lies on the little peninsula. There is nice beach at suburb Wimbie - but I do not recommend to stay there at the Russels Place - it is overpriced and rather meeting point for the local expats at the bar - just another come-and-drink. In the centre of the town you will find Residencial Lyn - with rooms from 250 000.
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