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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Oct 04, 2005 02:00 PM Osh - on the Silk Road... I survived the bazar!
I stay in Osh - very old settlement - the hub on the ancient Silk Road. It was not easy to find accommodation in the evening - finally I got inexpensive single room in the recenly refurbished Alay Hotel - they charge 250 som (like 6 USD) for clean room with shared bath. Recommenden - they still apply same price to the foreingners as to locals.
In the morning I climbed the hill overlooking Osh - they call it Solomon's Throne. Locals came here because up there on the rock is the small mosque reconstructed on the place where Barbur - the founder of Great Moghuls dynasty once built his Chapel. It is also worth climbing for the view...
Osh - still located on the crossroads of the big trails - from China, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan has large and interesting bazar. Today I survived this bazar... Why? There is infamous police station. They hunt for thr foreign tourists - ask for the passports, took them to the separete rooms at the station, search bags to the bottom, chack money and even put theis sticky hands into the tourist's pockets. There were such reports on the net... I met also Australian who recently passed such "procedure". Reason? Nobody knows... demand for money - maybe...
But the people at the bazar are nice - they like to be photographed. I bought kilo of ripe grapes for half a dollar!
Enjoy! But stay away from the police if you can!
Tomorrow I'll try to cross the border to Uzbekistan...
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Oct 03, 2005 02:00 PM Two passes over 3000 m in one day!...
To get from the capital city os Kyrgyzstan to Osh - second important city in country you must take the long road crossing mountain ranges, rivers and valleys... It takes full, tiring day... You have a choice of bus, minibus or share taxi. The last alternative gives you a chance not to travel at night time. From Osh Bazar in Bishkek in the morning I departed by car with two friendly Uzbeks and Russian girl. The fare to Osh was 1000 som pp. - like 25 USD for 11 hours of drive - real bargain! Now I can say that is was one of the most picturesque mountain routes I passed in my life - there were two snowy passes over 3000 m each and then descent via picturesque Naryn River Canyon. Just fantastic! First part of the road is brand new, but the descent is horrible - more then 100 km on the durty gravel road. Hope that they will improve it in 1-2 years. Anyway - it is recommended! Go Kyrgyzstan!
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Oct 02, 2005 02:00 PM Bishkek - the capital of Kyrgystan
For the backbackers here is nice and inexpensive place to stay: hotel of the Academy of Management on Panfilov St. They charge just 450 som for the twin room with hot shower... Ask for the inexpensive (dyeshovyj) room as the offer also luxury... It is close to the shop (round bread cost 8 som) and fruit stalls (20 som fer kilo of apples, 10 for tomatoes)
Bishkek - former Frunze has a lot of green and wide, post-soviet boulevards. On the main streets you will find fancy shops of well-known world companies, but they are not for the normal citizens of this country who earn monthly less then 100 USD. The situation after the overthrown of president is far from stability. I just want to have the shower, make the laundry and go west - to Osh tomorrow. Then I will be already close to the border of Uzbekistan...
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Oct 01, 2005 02:00 PM Second biggest mountain lake...
Yes, I was sailing the Titicaca Lake. But few people know that second after Titicaca is Issyk-Kul Lake in Kyrgystan. It is 170 km long and more then 60 km wide with the deep up to 690 m!To enjoy the beauty of the lake - surrounded from both sides by snow-capped mountains go to the village of Kadji-say on the southern shore. I spend there a night in the primitive house of the local people (no running water and pit toilet in the garden only). But they were nice and it cost only 100 som (2.50 USD).
In the village there is a man who can show you his eagle used for eagle hunting. The hunt itself cost more then 10000 som but it is also worth just see the eagle (birkut) in his garden...
In the afternoon I spent 6 hours (140 som) in the bus going to the capital city of Bishkek. Thy guy on the seat next to me was drunk - laying on me all the way. Nobody of locals react. No chance for change of the seat - the bus was crowded. Finally I stand up... Somebody of you asked me: is there really Wild East? Yes, here it is!
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Sep 30, 2005 02:00 PM Seven Bulls and the Broken Heart
25 km east of Karakol there is little village of Jeti Oghuz. It is famous for the scenery. Even the presidents of the states are coming here to enjoy the views of unusual red rock formations. In the middle of the day from Karakol bus station minibus (called here "marshrutka") will take you there for half a dollar. Ask for "Jeti Oghuz Kurort" - there are other cars going only to the village.
I left my backpack for free in the shop and walked uphill to enjoy the scenery. There are 7 big rock formations forming the line - "seven bulls". If you will go down and try to see the last two rock from the opposite side you will see like the heart broken into two parts - so it is!...
But how to get of the place? Almost every car in this country work like a unoffical taxi. They will stop. But this is not hitchhiking - they expect money! Ask before local people for the rate and pay - some drivers want to charge from foreigners more!...
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Sep 29, 2005 02:00 PM The peaks and the rivers of Kyrgystan
It was white around when I get of the hut at 7 am. Frosty, but blue sky and sun on the top of the Peak Palatka - tent-like peak closing the valley. I was sneezing and caughing but after the big cup of hot tea I took a walk uphill on the melting snow for better pictures and wider panoramas. It was worth...
In the afternoon I decided to take my 18-kg backpack and go down the valley along the roaring river. Passing small waterfalls and enjoying scenery. On my 4-hours way down I did not meet any other tourist - this is Kirgystan... Sorry - due the low temperatures I got a cold. Hope to be better tomorrow...
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Sep 28, 2005 02:00 PM Unexpected winter in Tien-Shan Mountains...
Mr Valentin - the friendly owner of Yak Tours will help you to arrange your hiking to the Altyn Arashan Valley. He has little hut there where you can spend nights (only 100 som per night - like 2.50 USD) and the meals are provided if you require... To get there take local version of landrover - GAZ car for 800 som pp or local transport to Ak -Suu village. Then it is 4 to 5 hours climbing up the valley. Views are stunning...
When I reached Altyn Arashan Valley enjoying the landscape in 30 minutes heavy clouds covered the sky and it started snowing. Brrrr... In the evening there were below zero! They provided US army sleeping bags but anyway the night was very cold...
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Sep 27, 2005 02:00 PM First day in Kyrgystan....
Karakol is the tiny township in the eastern Kyrgystan. It is good base for the hiking to the TienShan Mountains. I stay in the family-run Yak Tours Hostel. They charge 150 som per night and 100 som for the meal of your choice. In the central bazar area you can easy change money - 1 USD=40.3 som. Kyrgyztan is inexpensive - for just 50 som you can have two-courses meal in "Stolovaya". An hour of slow internet in the telecom center costs 30 som and a bottle of basic vodka cost 30 som (less then a dollar). No, I do not drink - but the locals drink a lot and this is horrible!
Old orthodox russian church is worth to see (it was converted to the club in sovet times) so is the only old mosque built without nails. Tomorrow I plan to go to the snowy mountains, which are visible from any place in Karakol... Hope the weather will be as nice as today!
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Sep 26, 2005 02:00 PM What a Canyon in Kazakhstan! Welcome to Kyrgystan!
200 km east of Almaty in the emptiness of the steppe and bare, dry mountains I found Charyn Canyon - called the Grand Canyon of Central Asia. To get there you must have your own rented transport - it is 12 km off the main road. The canyon is very picturesque. They charge 200 tenge entry fee pp and 200 per car. The easiest part to explore is called The Valley of the Castles - yes, it is very nice spot. I had nice weather and I hope that the pictures will be impressive. The paths down to the canyon are not well maintaned so take good trekking boots going there and plan to spend at least 3 hours. It is worth!
From Charyn I continued by car to the border crossing in te Karkara Valley. The Valley - wide with the long chain of the snowy mountains is beautiful. Herds of cows guarded by brave horsemen... Poor gravel road. Immigration posts are in the middle of nowhere. Bored officers were nice to me. No search, no problems - I crossed the border to Kyrgystan. Then 100 km of very bumpy road to the nearest township - Karakol - I found here hospitality at Yak Tours hostel. Welcome to Kyrgystan! - new fascinating country... New Adventure!
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Sep 25, 2005 02:00 PM To the mountain lakes near Almaty...
Yesterday in the afternoon I visited Medeu - famous skate ring located in the mountains above Almaty at 1700 above sea level. Do not waste money for the taxi - public bus 204 from Kazakhstan Hotel goes there. It is in the nice mountain valley.
Once at the ring park you have a chance to stretch your legs - 900 steps will take you uphill for the nice view of the ring and the area. Then you can continue up by road (hitching is possible) to the ski resort Shymbulak - unfortunately there were cloudy when I reached chir lift station.
Today I was lucky - I took a bus to the GES-2 power station
and the walk uphill to the extremely picturesque Bolshoye Almatynskoye Lake. Emerald waters are surrounded by the snowy mountains.... Fantastic! An I was the only tourist there!
If you will be forced to make the choice between Medeu and BA Lake go to the lake - It takes full day and few hours climbing but it is worth the effort!
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