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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Apr 29, 2005 02:00 PM Ilha Mozambique - do not miss it!
It is the former capital of the Portugeese colony. It is located on the little island connected with the mainland by 1,5 km causeway. One of the most interesting historical places in Africa... It is divided into two parts: The Stone Town where colonial buildings are and the Reed Town - where local people still live in the traditional houses. There is special atmosphere in the narrow , sandy streets... There is a lot to see but the place is till small enough to explore it by foot. Very picturesque place with palm trees, beaches, old architecture - the real paradise for the photographers! People are very nice and during all day I saw here only 5 tourists! But they already charge for the entry to the museums and the fort - the combined ticket cost 100 000 meticais. The best place to stay is tiny Casa Luis - Private Garden. There is bucket shower only byt they charge only 200 000 meticais for the single. Do not forget to be at the beach at 4 pm when fishing boats are returning - what a spectacle!
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Apr 28, 2005 02:00 PM African train adventure - Mozambique
There is nothing to do in Cuamba - I stayed in the Pensao Namancha at the main square - bucket shower only, run down but inexpensive and they have nets in the windows.
Train leaves at 5 am 3 times a week. Come the day before at 4 pm to buy your ticket - it cost 250000 meticais for the 2nd class and half of this in the 3rd (not recommended).
The journey takes up to 11 hours - you can enjoy the beauty of the landscapes and you will see a lot of people at the stations selling bananas , manioc, oranges, peanuts, sugar cane, live chickens... all they have to offer... The big railway theatre!... Once in Nampula in front of the station I found Chapa - pick-up truck going to the Ilha Mozambique - they put me in the back... Police control at the exit of Nampula was horrible: they took us off (two white tourists) and asked to put on the pavement all we have in our carry-on bags... What a hospitality! It is the worst experience during this expedition...
Nobody of local people were controlled...
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Apr 27, 2005 02:00 PM By cargo train to Mozambique...
Regarding poverty of the roads I decided to come as close as possible to the train line Cuamba - Nampula. But how to get to Cuamba - it is still 80 km inland from the border?? On the Malawi side I took one by one four minibuses and trucks: to Limbe, then to Liwonde, to Nsanama and finally to the border village of Nayuchi. It was already dark when I reached Nayuchi - no electricity there, but I found the bed in the poor house close to the immigration building (they charged 250 kwacha)
In the morning they open the border at 7.30 - I got the stamp in my passport and walk along the sandy road (like 2-3 km) to the Mozambique post in Entre Lagos. OK. I paid 30000 meticais of entry fee /there are money changers/ and... what now... how to get onward? They said: wait... an hour, two... And the miracle: the train! Cargo train! They put me to the brake compartment at the last wagon. They charged 50 000 - but I was going to Cuamba! Rail track is VERY poor. It took us like 3 hours to come to Cuamba station - but what a adventure!
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Apr 26, 2005 02:00 PM How to cross the border to Mozambique?
I am still in Malawi - in Blantyre - the economical capital of this country. It is worth to see here old church of St Mike and all Angels. And small museum - that's all... I stay in the overpriced Doogles Lodge - not recommended but close to the bus station - just 100 m.
It took me yesterday full day to move from Mzuzu down to Blyntyre.
I am trying to find here updated info on the best route to Mozambique.
Yes, I have a visa. The problem is: on the other side of the border the roads are VERY bad and you can wait many days for your chance to go onward... We will see - just keep your fingers crossed!
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Apr 24, 2005 02:00 PM The view from Livingstonia - Malawi
I was staying in the early morning in the bottom of 800 - m high cliff at the marker "Livingstonia 15 km". Bumpy gravel road starts there. No local transport. Local people are waiting hours and hours... Me too... But we got our chance: the truck going up with some cement, gravel and other construction materials. It took 1,5 hours to reach old mission established in 1894 (I think?). They charged us 200 per person...
There is church, the museum in the Stone House and... beautiful view of the lake on the horizon, mountains, valleys...
Worth to make such effort...
If you are not in a hurry you can stay overnight for 850 kwacha with breakfast in the museum building - there are 3 dorms and victorian sitting room. Enjoy!
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Apr 23, 2005 02:00 PM Cruising Lake Nyassa /Malawi/ - the African Beauty
Yesterday I celebrated my nameday in Nkhata Bay on the shore of the Lake Nyassa. It is worth to recommend Mayoka Lodge located on the southern cliff of the bay. It is 25 min walk from the village or 400 kwacha taxi ride...
Mayoka staff is very friendly - they offer accommodation in the comfy chalets for 7 USD, there is snorkeling, kayaks, walks...
Today I spent full day on board of the old ship "Ilala" - cruising on the schedule end to end of the lake. What a wonderful experience!
It takes me full day /7am to 8 pm/ to sail from Nkhata Bay to Chilumba. Enjoying the views of the hilly coasts and villages. The boat makes stops and people come to the ship in their dougout canoes... It was excellent relax after all adventures of my african expedition...
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Apr 21, 2005 02:00 PM Malawi visa - how to solve the problem?
Believe me or not: herd of elephants /about 12 with babies/ said Goodbye to us at the reception of Flatdogs Camp when we were departing South Luangwa.... It is not easy to find the local transport from Mwfue to Chipata. I was lucky to met in the camp very nice couple from Switzerland and they offered me a ride - thak you so much Richard and Andrea!
Five hours later we reached border of Malawi. Surprise!!!!: - You need a visa to enter Malawi! - said black officer... What shoul we do now? Most of the african countries interested in the development of tourism issue visas at the bordes posts! - But you: Switzerlan and Poland are not on the list! - he said.
Problem.... Finally he issued temporary 2-days permit on the piece of yellow paper. With this paper we got our visas in the immigration office in the capital city of Lilongwe. 3000 Malawi kwacha to pay, no photos, 2 hours waiting... 1 USD is worth 120 Mkwacha.
So while in trouble - ask for the yellow paper...
Welcome to Malawi!~
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Apr 20, 2005 02:00 PM South Luangwa Park - one of the best...
I can recommend Flatdogs Camp in South Luangwa to the backbackers... Their best kept secrets are two cottages with 2 beds each - they charge just 10 USD for clean bed with the net. Baths are only 30 m away...
For the first game ride into the park (4 hours by car with guide) they charge 30 USD, the second will cost you 25. I addition you will pay 20 USD park entry fee per day... But it is worth!
I took one morning and one night ride - We saw antelopes, zebras, big herds of elephants, hipos, crocodiles, buffalos and more.. also birds...
It was one of the best visits to the park in my life...
Vervet monkeys and baboons operated around my cottage. Keep the dors locked!!!
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Apr 19, 2005 02:00 PM Elephants are waiting on the road.... Zambia
It is easy to find the transportation from Lusaka to the provincial town of Chipata in the eastern part of Zambia.
Bus ticket will cost you 65000 kwacha. Once in Chipata you will try to find small bus or matola to the village of Mwfue - closest to the main gate of South Luangwa National Park.
Yes there was a minibus - but I was waiting 3 hours in the heat until it was full. They charged hefty 30000 for the ride and it took us 5.5 hours on the bumpy, muddy road...
It was dark when we arrive to Mwfue. The Flatdogs camp where I decided to stay overnight is located only 2 km from the village. They wanted too much for a car ride. I decided to put my backpack on and to walk...
Local people stoped me: there are wild animals on the road - you cannot walk in the darkness! Hard to believe! I got a free car ride: yes, I saw the elephants on this 2-km road and they were not happy to get off the road....
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Apr 18, 2005 02:00 PM Zambia: be careful in Lusaka!
Yesterday it took me full, tiring day in the crowded bus to came from Mbala to Lusaka - more then 1000 km on the road. But the price of the ticket is OK: 75000 kwacha /for 1 USD they pay 4600 kwacha/.
I am staying in the overpriced Kuomboka Backpackers /30000 per bed in the crampy 10-beds dormitory/.
Lusaka is: central Cairo Rd and.... the rest...
Just today in the morning when I was filming in the main street a thief tried to take the camera from my bag. There were a lot of local people around but nobody react... Shame...
Due to the ship delay on the Tanganyika Lake I will not go detour from Lusaka to Livingstone and back. It will be not a big loss bacause I already saw Victoria Falls from the Zimbabwe side... Next time...
Here are good internet cafees in the central Lusaka - thanks for all your letters and greetings - sorry I'll response after return...
Now big laundry - Africa brings a lot of sweat... Tomorrow I plan to go east via South Luangwa Park to Malawi - escaping Lusaka as soon as possible...
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