|
|
You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Mar 09, 2005 07:00 PM Zinder - Niger - 42 deg Celsius...
We were lucky! The once-a-week local bus passed throuth the sannds, gravels of the desert and after 7 hours ride in the dust and heat with friendly local people I landed yesterday in Zinder Niger. Central Hotel is colonial, run-down but charges me 6500 per room with noisy fan. Water is present in the early morning and late afternoon only; showers do not work....
I visited sultan s palace made of mud... Interesting...
Very few tourist call here.
One MINUTE of internet cost 200 CFA!!!
Now the new problem appears: how to enter the Tchad?
Fortunately there is again once-a -week public bus to Diffa at just tomorrow at 4.30 am - then there will be not public transport... It rises like the biggest challenge of this voyage... I am sure there will not be internet untill Ndjamena... Keep your fingers crossed, please!
|
Mar 03, 2005 07:00 PM Tenere - The Desert of The Deserts...
It will cost you from 120 000 per day incl fuel to rent the landcruiser withe guide and local driver. 4-5 people share...
We spent 5 days driving through Air Mountains and TENERE Desert - the most beautiful part of Sahara. They call it in the literature The Desert of The Deserts.
Can You imagine 400-m high orange sand dunes? Here they are... close to the dark mountains... The scenery is unforgettable... We were driving from the morning till evening and sleeping under the starry sky of Sahara just on the sand...
Yes I can recommend our reliable guide from Agadez: ATTAMAN Hadja Ahamada and his driver Bashir
Phone +227440506 atman_hadja@hotmail.com - both inteligent, representing high skills - just try them
|
Mar 01, 2005 07:00 PM Agadez Niger - what a place!
It is fantastic place, but avoid to stay in the center of the town - you will meet nasty souvenirs sellers every hour... The best option for the backpackers is Agreboun Hotel - 15 min walk from gare routiere - they charge 7 000 CFA per double with shower... We started from the animal market - camels, donkeys, goats, dust... But nice Tuareg people - proud and always ready for your photo...
Sandy, dusty streets reminds Timbuktu... The highlight is Grand Mosque with its mud minaret - you can even climb the tower paying some money to the guardian. But the best place to be is the terrace of the Air hotel at the evening where they serve cold Niger Beer for 1000 CFA so you can sip it and listen to the voices of Saharan town...
|
Feb 27, 2005 07:00 PM NIAMEY - the capital of Niger
Heat - more then 40 deg in the shade during the day. Cold coca-cola /225 CFA/ is like a dream. You can drink and drink... I am resting, cleaning and preparing for the next stage of my Transafricana.
The capital of the one of the poorest countries has very nice center - with fancy hotel and new government buildings.
Strong army presence - do not try to photograph the only bridge on the river. Catholic Mission near the cathedral is the best and safe escape for backpackers - they charge only 8000 CFA for twin room with shower and fan.
Tomorrow I plan to take a bus to distant Agadez /16000 CFA - air-con - what a luxury in the desert!/ - new adventures ahead!
|
Feb 25, 2005 07:00 PM 32 hours on the truck...
Gao - Mali. They wanted us to buy the ticket to Niamey in advance: 12500 CFA /9000 for local people/. Depart: 2 pm. We started from Gao at 4 pm: on the old Renault lorry there were packs of corn, smuggled goods and 60 squeezed passengers. This is all- gravel and sand route. Desert, sun and dust... Many unexpected stops /for praying/, shortage of water, border check-points in the middle of nowhere.... Yes - they /Malians/ charge 1000 CFA just for the stamp in your passport but do not register that you cross the border... Be prepared for the worst....
It was one of my hardest experiences in Africa...
But at the end I reached Niamey - the capital of Niger.
Here I am - and again I have /slow!/ access to the internet!
|
Feb 23, 2005 07:00 PM Harmattan in Gao - the last frontier....
6 am bus to Gao, 6 hours of rather bumpy driving due to the huge holes in asphalt. Many police check-points... Then ferry on the Niger river.... We are in Gao. The harmattan dusty, sandy wind from the desert is blowing... Horrible time... Gao - once important trade point with caravans passing by has XVI-century tomb of Askia to visit /2000 CFA entry but the best and freeview is from the roof of nearby house/
It is worth to stay in Gao in run-down colonial hotel Atlantide - do not forget to bargain - we paid 10000 CFA per room with fan and shower. Take a pirogue trip along the coast of Niger - unforgetable experience /8000 CFA per hour/
I am looking for the transport from Gao to NIGER - the one/per week bus goes on Monday and is seems that the lorry will be the only solution...
|
Feb 22, 2005 07:00 PM The hand of Fatima - Mali
Few tourist know that in the Eastern Mali there are beautiful rock formations located around Hombori.
You can see them on the approach to the village from the west... 15 km before the village you will be impressed by the Hand of Fatima - the real, stone hand rising more then 1000 m above sea level...
There are two inexpensive campements in the village but do noe expect luxury. In Auberge Tondanko we paid 3000 CFA per bed. They say: - No mosquitoes in February, but there are so bring your net or repellent with you!
Shortage of the bread: there is a sort of open-air bakery - ask people for the way and wait until your bread will be ready /150 CFA per baguette/
|
Feb 20, 2005 07:00 PM In the Dogon Country
Did you hear about the Dogon people? They live along the almost 200-km long Bandiagara Escarpment - it is in Mali.
They have very interesting culture, art and nowadays quite a lot of tourist is visiting area - one of the hits of Western Africa...
I visited the southern part of Dogon Country in 2000 /see pictures on my website/ . Now I wanted to see the north - less tourist, less known. They charge 40000 CFA per day plus fuel for rental of open 4WD truck. We deperted from Douentza early in the morning during the sandstorm.
Later in the afternoon wind stoped and we enjoyed the beautiful views of the Falaise /reminds me Monument Valley/
visiting stone- and mud- built villages. The nicest were: Damassongo and Ireli. The higlight was 4-hours mointain trek through separated ridge of Youga - with the views of Tolems houses located under the cliff.
We spend the night at mud house in Koundu Gouma - no light, no running water but what a stars above you!
Wath out for petrol - stealing people in Banani!
|
Feb 19, 2005 07:00 PM Douentza - Gateway to Dogon Country
/posted from Niamey/
It was late evening when we disembarked dusty bus in the little village of Douentza. The owner of Auberge Phare Vert was waiting at the bus stop. -Yes, I have the shover for you! It is simple shower what you are dereaming about after 13 hours in african bus!!!
The bed with the mosquito net costs 2500 CFA and they will prepare for free the big pot of boiled water so you can make your tea or coffee...
Today - on Sunday I wander around weekly market... Yes, this is the best day to visit Douentza - smells, colours, noise - animals and a crowd of people - many of them arrived from distant villages. they speak only local languages, not French but smile helps a lot. The balls of home-made soap, herbs, fruits... No tourists at all - one of the best place I saw in Mali...
Tomorrow we will take a ride to famous Dogon Country...
|
Feb 17, 2005 07:00 PM Bamako - internet and smog...
BAMAKO - crowded streets full of smog; wide Niger river; dusty bazar... Yes - there is internet acces in the capital of Mali - slow and not very reliable. It cost 500 per hour. My maibox is full... Many people do not know that I am on the hard trail in Africa. They ask for advice... Yemen, Pacific, Venezuela questions... I have very limited time and it cost a lot here to answer - if the computer is slow /yes, it is very slow!/ but how can I refuse if they address to me "the Master"??? Thanks to all of you for greetings, wishes and moral support...
Tomorrow I am taking a local bus to Douentza - Niger direction -13 hours drive- I do not know when and where there will be a chance to check the e-mail box again. Just keep your fingers crossed please!
|
Page:
297 298 299 300 301 302 303 304 305 306 307
|
|
|
