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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Feb 16, 2005 07:00 PM Country road to Bamako...
It cost 6000 francs CFA to jump to the bus going daily in the morning from Nara to the capital city of Bamako. If you want to seat in the cabin you pay 2500 extra. It is more then 450 km drive by the gravel, bumpy road in the dust, noise and heat; first baobab trees on the way! If you are lucky you will reach Bamako after 10 hours - dirty, sweaty - dreaming about the shower,
If you are lucky you will find it at the catholic mission - the best place in the town for the backpackers;
It is not easy to find it - go to the cathedral and ask there - it is still like 8000 m walk, You will pay only 3000 CFA for the dorm bed with mosquito net - the water is unlimited. What a plaasure!
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Feb 15, 2005 07:00 PM We are in Mali!
Mauritanian drivers drive fast. Camels, donkeys, small desert animals were crossing the road in the dark of the night. The collisions happened very often - there are many died animals on the roadside. Tired, dirty, hungry bwe reached Timbeghda at 3 am. Little amount of water - just to clean your face and hands. Lay on the hard flor of the local mud house.
At 7 am wake up, cup of coffee and local bread
We are driving on - to the border
At the beginning it war the piste /gravel road/ through the desert Then country road full of sand passing dry savanna. the road became smaller and smaller and I understood: we lost our way. Our local driver finally said: he was driving this road the first time; he asked the way - there were few goat herders... Wild people... Not easy to communicte
At 2pm little village appeared on the horizon - the architecture of the houses were different to those in Mauretania.
Driver asked barefoot kids. Yes, we are in Mali!
No plaques, no border post, no information - the next settlement - Nara is still 30 km away!
We reached it at 3.30 pm - in the hotel there were no running water, no light and no bank to change money. Yes, there were mosquitos!
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Feb 14, 2005 07:00 PM How to get to the Mali border?
If you are able to find the group of the overlanders ready to share the 4WD car just go to the Rue de Mosque Marocaine.
At the eastern end of the street you will see few junk landrovers; close to the in the shade of the tree the drivers sitting on the ground are drinking tea. Make a choice of the best car /important!/ and ask where is the driver. They will tell you the price: it is 150 000 ougija from Nouakchott to the first town in Mali. Write the contract, pay advance: 40000 at the moment of departure - otherwise it can dissapear with car and driver...
We started at 10 am. It is about 1000 km of paved road /The route of Hope/ to Timbeghda. Desert landscapes. At least, at sunset - 190 km before Kiffa you will see some picturesque mountains around, oases with palm trees in the sandy oueds...
At 9.30 pm in the dark: our car broken in the little village! They called for help. Miracle: the mechanicien working in the sand with a torch and few basic tools dissmounted the bridge, repaired it, assembled again... We were waiting on the side of the road laying on the mat and looking in the starry sky. At 11.30 the car was ready to go...
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Feb 14, 2005 07:00 PM First day, first adventure....
Yesterday in the evening when my backpack was already locked up I got a telephone call from LOT Polish Airlines. "Your flight in the morning is cancelled!" We can offer you the seat on the next flight - six hours later!... Uff! Fortunately I planed overnight stay in Warsaw so I will be able to catch my connection anyway. Even in Poland it is better not to plan very tight connections, especially in the winter... I just landed in snowy Warsaw. First day - first adventure...
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Feb 13, 2005 07:00 PM St Valentine's Day in Nouakchott...
Atar to Nouakchott: 6 hours in the rented car with driver...
I am in the capital city of Mauritania. Huge, dusty and dissapointing bazar, two impressive new mosques...
I stay in Auberge la Dune - 4500 ougija for the twin room.
The highlight of the town is its beach with 200 or 300 little and painted fishing boats. Come there around 4 pm when the boats are coming with a fresh fish. What a spectacle!
In the morning I got the visa of Mali - their embassy is very efficient - it took only é hours of waiting and 2500 ougija - much less then in Europe.
Now i am looking for the transport to the border of Mali - like 1000 km - the Africa is wide!
Keep your fingers crossed - after 2 days I should enter Mali by country road...
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Feb 11, 2005 07:00 PM Through the sands of the desert...
Planing the trip from Ouadane to Chingueti you can make a choice of the bumpy gravel road or to drive through the sand dunes... The last option is more interesting but cocts more fuel... It is worth! Only the footprints of other 4WD trucks guided us through the dune country. What a landscapes! The most impressive part of the day was a stop in the little oasis of Tanouchert, where the sand is covering one by one the picturesque palms...
The Chingueti - once one of the holiest towns of islam is very tourist, with less old buildings then Ouadane. No palms around, only one mosque to see but hords of kids asking for the cadeau... Make a choice of Ouadane if you will be pressed by the time! In the famous libraries they charge 500 ougija per visit by they show only few books...
Zarga - the picturesque mountain ridge raising from the yellow sands is also beautiful - unfortunately it was the end of the day when we were there and very limited time - domage!
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Feb 10, 2005 07:00 PM 4WD to the Ouadane...
The cost of the expedition is not so high if you will find few people to share: landcruiser cost 18000 ougija for the car with local driver plus fuel...
Alejuta in the local dress and black turban arrived at 9am...
He is experienced driver. One hour later we crossed picturesque range of Adrar Mts. It was all gravel road full of stones and bumps; only climb to the pass is paved. First stop was close to the picturesque historical ruins of Fort Saganne. Then it was long drive to Ouadane by the piste...
Can you imagine the palm oasis towered by the ruins of XI-century stone town located in the middle of nowhere? The town is larger then I expected - it is just a labirynth of narrow streets, alleys, public buildings with very few people still living there. Entry to the ruins cost 500 ougija.
We spend the night under the tent in Auberge Vasco run by the local women. Bring your sleeping bag, but you will still pay 1500 ougija for the overnight. It is desert! In the evening they played at the camp traditional music and we had a chance to see dances... Unforgetable day!
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Feb 09, 2005 07:00 PM Atar - resting in the Sahara Desert
Yes, I can recommend this place: camping Bab Sahara run
by the Dutch - Justus and his wife is located on the outskirts of the town of Atar.
They have big tents and two stone rondavels - each for 4 persons. And they charge 7000 ougija /like 20euro/ per rondavel. There is only cold shover but the hosts are very friendly, very knowlegeable and helpful. Local cook will prepare for you the rice with fish and salad for 600 ougija.
Atar is very tiny - the capital of province has no high buidings,
only one internet cafe and 4-rooms museum... Atar has inexpensive charter flights from France by Point Afrique /from 220 euro each way - what a deal!/ and is used mostly as a base for the expeditions to the oases in the desert. We will start our tomorrow -Insz Allach!
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Feb 08, 2005 07:00 PM 450 km by the ore train... Mauritania
The station proudly marked GARE de VOYAGEURS is located in the sand in the northern outskirts of the town... In fact it is only one little shelter abondoned during the day. People appear around 1 pm. The train is departing according to the schedule daily at 2.50 pm. It was 2 pm when I disembark there the taxi /500 ougija/ carrying in the heat my backpack, good supply of food and water and ready for the railway adventure.
This is private railway built to carry from Zouerat into the coast the iron ore -in fact the only resource of Mauritania. Once a day they attach one passenger car to the 2.5 km long train. They say it is the longest operating train in the world. -Monsieur, do you want a ticket?
You can travel for free in the ore carriage under the sky - in the dust. Passenger carriage gives some comfort... for 1000 ougija.
3 pm, 4 pm... the train arrived at 5 pm. Hurry up... it is only 10 min stop: one entry for ladies and one for gents - to avoid harrashment... Uff... inside it looks like a dusty cattle carriage - most peple just lay on the floor. What a experience! 11 hours in such a crowdy car! Dust and noise but you are going on! At 4 am in the dark we landed in Choum. Junky landcruiser took us for 2000 ougija to 4 hours distant Atar - promised land after such a trip... Enjoy your Mauritania!
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Feb 07, 2005 07:00 PM Nouadhibou - did you hear about it?
It is second town of Mauritania... Do not look for the center... you will not find it... Dusty streets... Wind and sand. Donkeys... Garbage around...
Central point is probably where Hotel de Ville or Town Hall is located... I stay in the Camping Abba - friendly place where they have space for tents but also few rooms. They charge 3400 ougija for double with good, hot shower . In Mauretania you will find quite good black market for western curriencies. Ask at any shop, not on the street : they will give you 385 ougija per euro and 300 per USD. In the bank or official exchange office you will get 30-40 percent less. If you are coming from the north they will also offer good price for the dirham - 35 ougija.
Food is cheap here: french baguette cost 50 ougija, one egg also 50, the bar of french butter - 400.
In the afternoon I took a short tour to the Cape Blanc - the guide books recommend its cliffs - in fact it is now port and industrial zone - you have only like 500 m access to the coast and it is still nice place but not worth the half day tour...
Back from the heat and dust to the shower I feel like in the paradise... But it is still Africa...
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