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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Apr 22, 2004 02:00 PM Imieniny under the palm trees...
The sun was rising over the navy blue ocean and I heard the sound of little waves approaching the beach when I opened my eyes... I layed naked in the small, open, tatched house ("beach fale"). Through the mosquito net I enjoyed the view of white, sandy and empty beach fringed by palm trees... -It is my nameday today! -I recognized in my still-sleepy brain... In Poland most of the people still celebrate his saint patron day instead of birthday. So am I... On Samoa, on the sunny island of Savaii... It will be worth to open the large bottle of the local VAILIMA beer in the evening...
Beach fales cost here 50 tala per day including meals in local style...
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Apr 21, 2004 02:00 PM Malawi visa - not so easy...
Believe or not: herd of elephants /12 or more -withe babies/ said Godbye to me at the reception building of Flatdogs Camp when we were departing at 6 am....
I met in the camp nice couple from Switzerland theveling with own car and they offered me a ride back to the world... It was important because it is very difficult to find bublic transpart from Mwfue back to Chipata. Thanks a lot - Anrdea and Richard!!
Passing by Chipata after 5 hours we reached the border point of Malawi... Surprise... Most african countries issue tourist visas at the border... - But Poland and Switzerland are not on the list!! - said black officer... What should we do?
Finally he gave us temporary 2-days permit on the yellow piece of paper. With this paper we raported to the immigration office in the capital city of Lilongwe, we paid 3000 malawi kwacha /1 USD is worth 120 MKwacha/ and we got our visas. Ask for the yellow paper!
Welcome to Malawi!
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Apr 20, 2004 02:00 PM Having a rest in Seaside Inn...
The Tokelau odyssey is over! Can you imagine? During 7-days journey to Tokelau and back we met only one little fishing boat! Only empty Pacific Ocean around! Disembarked from m/v "Tokelau" in Apia I walked only 400 m with my 20k bacpack to Seaside Inn - cosy backpackers guesthouse just near the port. They offer fan rooms from 60 tala with breakfast included - and that is what I need to rest, make the laundry, and enjoy the food other then rice-and-meat served aboard (and included in the price of the ticket). The ground under my feets is still swinging... I plan to move tomorrow for 3 days to Savai - the biggest island of Samoa - it is still unknown to me - travellers say it is even more interesting then capital island of Upolu. Soon we will see!
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Apr 17, 2004 02:00 PM Atafu - Nukunonu - Fakaofo...
Tokelau - former Union Islands consists of only 3 little atolls. The ocean was stormy, but I was still lucky to land on all of them and even to spend the nights ashore. On Nukunonu there is only guesthouse you can use if staying for few days (50 NZD full board and full of ants). Luciano - the owner took me with small boat across the emerald lagoon to the little motus - palm-covered, empty islands... Tokelau... The place is wonderful! Isoloated from the rest of the world, with old customs preserved, nice people and unspoiled nature. No airstrip, no port - every landing was a new adventure! I took a lot of pictures, met many interesting people and... during the last hour of my stay taking a boat trip between small motus I broked down my video camera... - it was sprayed by salt water... But it was still worth...
Now again we have two nights on a deck sailing to Apia. Thanks God the weather is improoving!
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Apr 14, 2004 02:00 PM Fakaofo on the horizon...
Sailing to Tokelau - one of most unusual destinations... My dream comes true...
Do you expect South Seas story about deep-blue ocean, romantic sunsets and singing sailors...
It was like this on the first day only... There were only two of us - the travellers on board surrounded by smiling, lovely Tokelauans...
During the night we got heave wind and rain -
I was forced to escape from the deck...
After 29 hours of sailing on the second day we saw first atoll of Tokelau - Fakaofo...
On the high waves small boats unloaded passengers jumping over the reef and we sailed onward - to Nukunonu...
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Apr 12, 2004 02:00 PM Tokelau - ahoy!
It was early morning when I found Tokeleu Office in Apia... The supply boat in sailing tomorrow! Do you have a space for me?
Fortunately the answer was: yes! They made me really happy...
The ship carries up to 60 passengers in one cabin (usually occupied by officials) and on the deck. The deck fare is 286 NZD for round-trip.
It usually takes around 7 days... If you want to stay on Tokelau longer (until the next sailing) you have to apply in advice for visa and book limited accommodation through Apia Office.
I got my ticket in the afternoon and started to look for the suitable mat (seven days on a deck!)
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Apr 10, 2004 02:00 PM Talofa from Samoa!
Easter on Upolu Island... I found here very nice hosts from Servas organization. Maria-Ines and Marco gave me very interesting introduction to the island of green cloud-caped mountains, waterfalls, emerald lagoons and beach huts. They live close to the nature in the middle of the lush forest - far from the noise of the capital. Yes, I have been to Samoa before but it still excite me: ladies with flowers in their hairs, policemen in lava-lava skirts marching every morning along the boulevard in Apia...
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Apr 08, 2004 02:00 PM Good Friday on Wallis Island
Yes, on Wednesday our 16-seater arrived to Futuna and I am happy to be closer to the world - on Wallis Island which is much more westernizet then Futuna. Wallis is almost flat and it is like a garden - lush, full of tropical flowers and smiling Polynesians. It has beautiful, turquoise lagoon with many small motus. I will attend Good Friday celebrations here.
Tommorrow - on Saturday I will fly accross the dateline to Samoa via Nadi to spend there the Easter. And then will come the time to try my luck: there is supply boat departing one a month to Tokelau - this is the only way to reach this remote destination hidden on the South Pacific...
I want to try...
Keep your fingers crossed, please!
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Apr 05, 2004 02:00 PM No flight today!!! Tomorrow - maybe....
Wonderful Futuna Island has only one airstrip. The only connection to the world (means: to Wallis) is operated by 16-seat twinotter plain - the only one in the Air Calin fleet...
We had heavy rain all night and morning and the airstrip looks now like a pond. No flight today (Yes, I was booked for today!)
So far I do not complain - I got an extra day to visit beautiful churches spread out along the coast and to enjoy taro + fresh fish for lunch and dinner again. Yesterday I visited uninhabited Alofi island - just 2 km away - real South Seas paradise...
The only bank is still closed and I remain without local currency. Maybe tomorrow...
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Apr 03, 2004 02:00 PM The island of two kingdoms - Futuna...
The Pacific! Can you imagine 15-km long tropical island inhabited by friendly Polynesians who are always ready to invite you to visit their fale - traditional oval house with thatched roof and mats on the floor? They all are strong catholics. They smile to everybody... The island is divided into two kingdoms: Alo and Sigave. This is fascinating, montanous Futuna - the part of French Overseas Teritories.... Forget your english!
Bon jour!... Tourism does not exist here. There are two small hotels occupied by French Gvt workers - be prepared to pay at least 85 USD per room. I survived staying c/o Catholics Parish. It gave me opportunity to join colorful celebration of Palm Sunday - under palm trees -The king was also there -wonderful event!
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