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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Aug 29, 2021 08:00 PM 222 kilometers to Riga...
From the countryside where I spent the night I was driving windy but picturesque country roads, some of them were gravel roads - like in Africa. This was near the border with Latvia. Happily after 40 minutes I found myself on the main road headond NW. The road was empty. I passed the border . marker "Latvia". No control, nobocdy ask about covid vaccination.
On the route I was lookingfor the inexpensive fuel. In Estonia they charge 1,46 euro per litre. But in Latvia you can finnd small self-service stations where you will pavy only 1,30 per litre. Just look around!
The sun was shining when I reached Riga. It was necessarhy to cross the crowded center on the way to the airport.
I returned car on time. The counter showed almost 2400 kms since de departure 12 days ago. Good score! On the way to the hotel I passed Russian Orthodox Cathedral. There was a service inside and they were singing beautifully.... I noticed 3 rich iconostas see the small one on the picture. Tomorrow I have all day to walk again after 18 years around Riga and to meet my local friend.
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Aug 28, 2021 08:00 PM Estonia's Lakes Region
It was raining again when I was leaving Tartu. But when I reached first stop-over the rain stopped. This was Otepaa - little provincial township where the students for the first time presented Estonian national flag.
Othepaa is also known as a unofficial capital of the lakes region. I saw today many lakes spread out between the hills and green forests. The attaction of this area is also nice, old manor built in the English style - Sangaste. Unfortunately insiide it requires restauration.
Voru - another little town on the lake was erected by Catherine the Great. Voru's inhabitants built in the town the church of St Catherine. There is also a monument of the monarch-the founder, but quiet small....
I will spend the night in the countryside. Imagine little cottage on the pond, built of logs, withe panoramic windows and the fireplace. All for 20 euro/ night. Good night from Estonia!
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Aug 27, 2021 08:00 PM Summer evening in Tartu
Early in the morning I said goodbye to the hospitable staff of Rannliv GH. The first stop on my way to Tartu was in Rakvere where the ruins of the 13th century castle are visible from the distance. I climbed the castle hill and... recognized that they charge 11 euro entry fee to get inside. Sorry, they exaggerated! I took only the picture from the gate and continue my ride through the green fuelds and forests. Lake Peipus is a huge, border lake between Estonia and Russia - I saw it for the first time. From the Estonian side it is not possible to see Russia - it is so wide! People in the Raja fishing village sell fresh and smoked fish on the roadside here. Sunny day...
It was already afternoon when I reached Tartu - the second large city of Estonia. It is big university center - there are 20 000 thousands of students! A lot of young people on the streets... The city itself, ecpecially the cozy old town is lovely - for me more pleasant then Tallin. In addition the flag of Tartu is similar to Polish flag - it wad given by Polish king Stefan Batory - that is very pleasant go me.
There is a cultural festival now in Tartu. In the evening on the big stage built in the old city market they were playing the mhsic and it was nice to be there. Warm, summer evening. I wish to have such a weather also tomorrow!
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Aug 26, 2021 08:00 PM Lahemaa National Park
In the morning I was driving from Tallin to the coastal Lahemaa National Park. Imagine four different peninsulas with bays between them. Beaches with stone boulders left by Scandinavian Gracier. Forests, rivers, cascades. Fishing villages and old, restoded manors... Here I am, staying with friendly Rannaliv Guesthouse in Vosu. Cloudy skies, but no rain today!
I started exploration from the village Altja where there is a chance to photograph old, thatched houses and try traditional meal in the old inn. Then I was heading to Sagadi, to see a big manor in Sagadi. The main building is stil under restoration, but it still impressive. Not far from Sagadi -in Palmse - bright residence of Steinbock family is already open for visiting - they charge 9 euro entry fee. ..
I love the nature, so the next tergets were two small waterfalls hidden in the forest: Joaveski and Nommeveski. They are reachable by gravel road. Both of them are rather cascades, but worth to see...
At the end of the day I went to the northern tip of Parispea Peninsula. USSR left there the abandoned border guard post. But the maim attraction is formed by the stone boulders , long , natural spit. To see it and possibly walk to the end you have to take right "finger" of the peninsula - be prepared for the bumpy and muddy last 3 kms!
That's it! Tomorrow I plan to drive inland - to Tartu...
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Aug 25, 2021 08:00 PM Tallin after 18 years - beautiful but wet :)
I stay in Tallin in the basement. No windows, no daylight, but it ia very clean, modern and very close to the old town. I paid 27 euro for twin room with bath and basic kitchen...
Weather today. is cloudy with permanent light rain. I went to the old town anyway. It is great with a chain of ghd walls and many stone towers. The best known of them is Fat Maggie - it stands closest to the port. On the top of old town hill there are: the castle (housing the present parliament) and two big temples: protestant ToomKirk (2 euro entry fee) and Russian orthodox St Nicolas cathedral. St Nico, built by tsars is very tall and has 3 beautiful ikonostases in the interior, but photography is strictly prohibited - even out of the service times.
I was walking around the lovely market with many sidewalk restaurants. It is common that the waiters are in the national or historic costumes. This creates the special atmosphere... I like Tallin - also because it is so compact. I returned to my basement wet. It is time to dry all clothes. Let's hope that tomorrow the weather will improve :)
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Aug 24, 2021 08:00 PM Country roads in the rain
Saaremaa Island, Estonia. It was raining in the morning, at 11.30 am I decided to go to the places of interest anyway. Apart from the lovely capital there are three of them. The first one is Alda, where you will see five wooden windmills. Those windmils became the symbol of the Saaremaa. They stand just by the road, so it is easy to photograph them. My second destination was Panga on the northern coast. The only cliff on the island, 22 m high is located there. This was adventurous drive: stupd navigation send my to the gravel, country roads full of water holes and overgrown. Maybe this was really the shortest route? With reduced speed it took me almost an hour to be back on the asphalt.... Luckily, when I reached Panga Cliff the rain stopped and I enjoyed pleasant coastal walk. In the far past it was sacred place for the local people. Now they build here the tower...
The third attraction to see is Kaali meteorite crater. Scientists say that in the bronze era big meteorite (50-80 tonnes) hit the ground in Kaali. You can still see the big hole (actually the little lake). So, as you can see if you are consistent and lucky you can implement your plan regardless the weather. Well the pictures are not so nice... Sorry!
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Aug 23, 2021 08:00 PM To the Saaremaa Island
Saaremaa is the biggest Estonian island on the Baltic. It has 80 kms end to end! The weather was not so bad when I was driving to the capital of the island hidden in the southwestern corner. Kuressaare has a nice and cozy old town with two churches and buildindg of fire brigade. Street cafes are present but very few tourist. The highlight of the city is a bishop's castle built in 13th century. The castle impressed me by a deep moat and well preserved, high walls. Inside the high castle there are museums (10 euro entry fee is requested).
In the afternoon I was drivind to the southern end of the island, where they built 52 m high lighthouse.. It is tourist place and for 5 euro you can climb the stairs to the top, but the landscape around is rather monotonous and Ii decided not to spend the money.
I will spend the night in the farmhouse converted into rural pension. They charge 27 euro per room with shared bath and unlimited apples from the garden are free. Good night from Estonia!
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Aug 22, 2021 08:00 PM Crossing the border to Estonia.
It was 8.30 am when I started from Ciesis, driving country roads first to Valmeira, then to Anazi near the border crossing point. The side roads were almost empty. Nobody stopped me at the border, I just drove through! But few kilometers further on the police were stopping all cars, checking documents. They were very friendly explaining that, Belarus illegally released immigrants to Latvia and they do not want them here.
An hour later I entered the city of Parnu - first Estonian township on my new trail
Parnu suffered a lot from the wars. It's castle was destroyed with the exception of one tower - Red Tower. I saw also nice St Catherine orthodox church founded by the Catherine the Great. But today Parnu if famous for the wide beach, than the monuments. I saw it - there is pavilion where they offer mud baths. The beach itself is wide and clean, but almost enpty because the end of the season.
I found my Vietesina pension picturesquely located just near the river bridge. Lovely, sunny day is ending. Tomorrow I will know more about nowadays Estonia...
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Aug 21, 2021 08:00 PM Three castles in one day, even four!
Little Latvia has many castles to see. Some of them are picturesque ruins, but still worth a visit due to the scenery. Today I started driving early, heading to historic Sigulda overlooking the nice Gauja River. Near the New Castle, wchich is rather a palace hosting the museum you vill find the ruins of Livonian Order Castle. There is a nice view from the courtyard over the river and Turaida castle is visible on the other side. The seniors pay 4,30 euro to enter Turaida. This red brick castlte is nicely restored and has the museum, Krimulda castle on the same bank is not worth to see - just few stone walls hidden in the forest.
The highlight of the day was a castle in Cesis, where I arrived at 3 pm.
It is partly riuned but you can still climb two towers - the west one with provided lantern. On the top of the tower there is fantastic sound and light projection about the history of the castle.
In the courtyard of Cesis castle there are working workshops of smith, blacksmith, medieval tailor and more. The craftmen work in the historic costumes. Geat experience?
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Aug 20, 2021 08:00 PM Widest waterfall of Europe, Versailles of Latvia
I started from Liepaja at 9.30, heading initially to the old town of Kuldiga. Roads are almost empty in this part of Curland so at 11 am I was alredy walking the streets of Kuldiga. Why I made a detour? Fellow Latvian from the hostel convinced me to visit this little known township. Kuldiga is proud to offer the longest brick bridge in Europe (164 m long) and widest waterfall in Europe (249 m wide) Well, the waterfall is less the 2 m high, but it is still something special!
From Kuldiga I was driving to the Jevel of Latvia - the Rundale Palace near Bauska. They call this palace Versailles of Latvia and they do not exaggerate... You have to pay 12 euro (no discounts) to visit the nicely restored palace and glorious garden. People are coming here for the marriage ceremonies (I attended one, enjoying lovely live chamber music). Roses in the rose garden were still in blossom. And inside the palace - thousands of paintings, sculptures to enjoy. Rundale is a must if you are in Latvia! It was already 7 pm when I reached the cottage near the Lithuanian border where I will spend the night...
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