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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Aug 26, 2021 08:00 PM Lahemaa National Park
In the morning I was driving from Tallin to the coastal Lahemaa National Park. Imagine four different peninsulas with bays between them. Beaches with stone boulders left by Scandinavian Gracier. Forests, rivers, cascades. Fishing villages and old, restoded manors... Here I am, staying with friendly Rannaliv Guesthouse in Vosu. Cloudy skies, but no rain today!
I started exploration from the village Altja where there is a chance to photograph old, thatched houses and try traditional meal in the old inn. Then I was heading to Sagadi, to see a big manor in Sagadi. The main building is stil under restoration, but it still impressive. Not far from Sagadi -in Palmse - bright residence of Steinbock family is already open for visiting - they charge 9 euro entry fee. ..
I love the nature, so the next tergets were two small waterfalls hidden in the forest: Joaveski and Nommeveski. They are reachable by gravel road. Both of them are rather cascades, but worth to see...
At the end of the day I went to the northern tip of Parispea Peninsula. USSR left there the abandoned border guard post. But the maim attraction is formed by the stone boulders , long , natural spit. To see it and possibly walk to the end you have to take right "finger" of the peninsula - be prepared for the bumpy and muddy last 3 kms!
That's it! Tomorrow I plan to drive inland - to Tartu...
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Aug 25, 2021 08:00 PM Tallin after 18 years - beautiful but wet :)
I stay in Tallin in the basement. No windows, no daylight, but it ia very clean, modern and very close to the old town. I paid 27 euro for twin room with bath and basic kitchen...
Weather today. is cloudy with permanent light rain. I went to the old town anyway. It is great with a chain of ghd walls and many stone towers. The best known of them is Fat Maggie - it stands closest to the port. On the top of old town hill there are: the castle (housing the present parliament) and two big temples: protestant ToomKirk (2 euro entry fee) and Russian orthodox St Nicolas cathedral. St Nico, built by tsars is very tall and has 3 beautiful ikonostases in the interior, but photography is strictly prohibited - even out of the service times.
I was walking around the lovely market with many sidewalk restaurants. It is common that the waiters are in the national or historic costumes. This creates the special atmosphere... I like Tallin - also because it is so compact. I returned to my basement wet. It is time to dry all clothes. Let's hope that tomorrow the weather will improve :)
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Aug 24, 2021 08:00 PM Country roads in the rain
Saaremaa Island, Estonia. It was raining in the morning, at 11.30 am I decided to go to the places of interest anyway. Apart from the lovely capital there are three of them. The first one is Alda, where you will see five wooden windmills. Those windmils became the symbol of the Saaremaa. They stand just by the road, so it is easy to photograph them. My second destination was Panga on the northern coast. The only cliff on the island, 22 m high is located there. This was adventurous drive: stupd navigation send my to the gravel, country roads full of water holes and overgrown. Maybe this was really the shortest route? With reduced speed it took me almost an hour to be back on the asphalt.... Luckily, when I reached Panga Cliff the rain stopped and I enjoyed pleasant coastal walk. In the far past it was sacred place for the local people. Now they build here the tower...
The third attraction to see is Kaali meteorite crater. Scientists say that in the bronze era big meteorite (50-80 tonnes) hit the ground in Kaali. You can still see the big hole (actually the little lake). So, as you can see if you are consistent and lucky you can implement your plan regardless the weather. Well the pictures are not so nice... Sorry!
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Aug 23, 2021 08:00 PM To the Saaremaa Island
Saaremaa is the biggest Estonian island on the Baltic. It has 80 kms end to end! The weather was not so bad when I was driving to the capital of the island hidden in the southwestern corner. Kuressaare has a nice and cozy old town with two churches and buildindg of fire brigade. Street cafes are present but very few tourist. The highlight of the city is a bishop's castle built in 13th century. The castle impressed me by a deep moat and well preserved, high walls. Inside the high castle there are museums (10 euro entry fee is requested).
In the afternoon I was drivind to the southern end of the island, where they built 52 m high lighthouse.. It is tourist place and for 5 euro you can climb the stairs to the top, but the landscape around is rather monotonous and Ii decided not to spend the money.
I will spend the night in the farmhouse converted into rural pension. They charge 27 euro per room with shared bath and unlimited apples from the garden are free. Good night from Estonia!
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Aug 22, 2021 08:00 PM Crossing the border to Estonia.
It was 8.30 am when I started from Ciesis, driving country roads first to Valmeira, then to Anazi near the border crossing point. The side roads were almost empty. Nobody stopped me at the border, I just drove through! But few kilometers further on the police were stopping all cars, checking documents. They were very friendly explaining that, Belarus illegally released immigrants to Latvia and they do not want them here.
An hour later I entered the city of Parnu - first Estonian township on my new trail
Parnu suffered a lot from the wars. It's castle was destroyed with the exception of one tower - Red Tower. I saw also nice St Catherine orthodox church founded by the Catherine the Great. But today Parnu if famous for the wide beach, than the monuments. I saw it - there is pavilion where they offer mud baths. The beach itself is wide and clean, but almost enpty because the end of the season.
I found my Vietesina pension picturesquely located just near the river bridge. Lovely, sunny day is ending. Tomorrow I will know more about nowadays Estonia...
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Aug 21, 2021 08:00 PM Three castles in one day, even four!
Little Latvia has many castles to see. Some of them are picturesque ruins, but still worth a visit due to the scenery. Today I started driving early, heading to historic Sigulda overlooking the nice Gauja River. Near the New Castle, wchich is rather a palace hosting the museum you vill find the ruins of Livonian Order Castle. There is a nice view from the courtyard over the river and Turaida castle is visible on the other side. The seniors pay 4,30 euro to enter Turaida. This red brick castlte is nicely restored and has the museum, Krimulda castle on the same bank is not worth to see - just few stone walls hidden in the forest.
The highlight of the day was a castle in Cesis, where I arrived at 3 pm.
It is partly riuned but you can still climb two towers - the west one with provided lantern. On the top of the tower there is fantastic sound and light projection about the history of the castle.
In the courtyard of Cesis castle there are working workshops of smith, blacksmith, medieval tailor and more. The craftmen work in the historic costumes. Geat experience?
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Aug 20, 2021 08:00 PM Widest waterfall of Europe, Versailles of Latvia
I started from Liepaja at 9.30, heading initially to the old town of Kuldiga. Roads are almost empty in this part of Curland so at 11 am I was alredy walking the streets of Kuldiga. Why I made a detour? Fellow Latvian from the hostel convinced me to visit this little known township. Kuldiga is proud to offer the longest brick bridge in Europe (164 m long) and widest waterfall in Europe (249 m wide) Well, the waterfall is less the 2 m high, but it is still something special!
From Kuldiga I was driving to the Jevel of Latvia - the Rundale Palace near Bauska. They call this palace Versailles of Latvia and they do not exaggerate... You have to pay 12 euro (no discounts) to visit the nicely restored palace and glorious garden. People are coming here for the marriage ceremonies (I attended one, enjoying lovely live chamber music). Roses in the rose garden were still in blossom. And inside the palace - thousands of paintings, sculptures to enjoy. Rundale is a must if you are in Latvia! It was already 7 pm when I reached the cottage near the Lithuanian border where I will spend the night...
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Aug 19, 2021 08:00 PM Tsar's prison, golden domes of St Nocolas
In the past Latvia was conquered by Russian tsars. Liepawa, where I was today was since then important naval base. Karosta quarter, separated by canal was top secret place also during communist period. Now ot os possible to see there remains of old military installations - first of all - Karosta prison (entry fee 5 euro with a guide). 7 rulers one by one kept here their military prisoners including Germans during WW2. Want you try the conditions? Part of the prison is used as a hostel! You can spend the night in the cell :) for the fee of course.
In the same quarter tsar built for the sailors imposing naval cathedral
It is restored and open. The golden domes are visible from the distance...
Apart Karosta Liepaja has a lot to offer - in the old town in the ornate Trinity Church you can admire the biggest organ in the world (that's what they say). Between St Anna and St Joseph there is old and busy Peter's Market. How about spending en evening in the modern Amber Concert Hall near the river promenade?...
What an interesting day!
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Aug 18, 2021 08:00 PM Courland by car and by foot
The sun appeared when I was leaving Jurmala at 9.30 am. Lucky me!
Along the east coast of Courland (here they call it Kurzeme) I aas driving empty roads to the Cape Kolka - the northernmost tip of Courland. The population here is very small. The Cape itself is almost flat, but still picturesque during stormy weather like today. Then I drove along the western coast, making side trips to the historic lighthouses, enjoying the great nature of Slitere National Park... The entry to the parks is free!
The final accent of the day was the visit to Ventspilis - nice port located in the moutch of wide Venta river. They have there two nice San Nicolas Churches: Russian Orthodox and Evangelic. Once, exploring Tobago Island I saw the fort, established by the prince Jacob, duke of Courland. His ships were departing to America just from Ventspilis. This was a long day: I arrived to the my next destination only at 6 pm. But whar a day! I drove 310 kms! And my phone registered more than 8000 done!
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Aug 17, 2021 08:00 PM In Latvia after years...
Polish Airlines do not care much nowadays about their passengers. When I was buying my ticket to Riga the departure from Gdansk was at 8 am. Later they cancelled my flight offering instead the other one - at 5.30 am. So I was forced to wake up in the middle of the night and wait more then 4 hours for the connection in Warsaw.
It was cloudy and light rain in Riga, when we landed there. I rented a car (instead requested small VW polo they gave me brand new Peugeot 200) and drove to Jurmala - number one Latvian resort on the Baltic Sea. It is off the season here. The town is nice with a lot of green and flowers in the streets. There are still many old-fashioned timber houses, sometimes very ornate. At the end of main pedestrian street - Jomas stands lovely Russian orthodox church. walkind Jurmala' streets surprisely you're will hear more Russian then Latvian language. But the people are nice. I stay in the big block from communist era. It is time to rest - tomorrow I will drive to Curland.
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