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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Sep 28, 2019 08:00 PM The lovely nature of Karabakh
In the morning I met a group of tourists from Portugal and I have been invited to join them on the car tour - I was lucky, because I avoided to pay for taxi to the trailhead... But first we went to the city market to see how thd produce a local bread with fresh greens inside and lavash - the paper bread... I had a lot of fun talking with local people - everybody knows Russian here... Then we visited interesting museum dedicated to Karabakh conflict -the real tragedy of the nation. We have been also to see Mamik-Papik monument on the little hill on the ousskirts of the city.
This funny monument (see photo) became the symbol of Artsakh = Karabakh .
In the afternoon their bus took us to the trailhead in Hunot Canyon. We were climbing there upstream the mountain river enjoying the views anc the lush nature. Finally the bus took us to the town of Sushi, where in the restored cathedral I had a chance to see Armenian wedding ceremony. What a day! But it was raining late in the afternoon. Let's hope that tomorrow the sun will appear again!
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Sep 27, 2019 08:00 PM To the Karabakh!
In the morning marshrutka no.75 took me to the central avtovokzal (bus station) for 100 dram. YOU pay to the driver when you leave the bus. I recognized earlier that they do not offer any big bus travel to Stepanakert - the capital of Nagorno Karabakh or ARTSAKH - as they call their country. But there are 3 minibuses departing every day between 7.30 and 10.00 am. They depart when full. My was full at 10.00. I paid 5000 AMD to the driver and took a seat in the back (the only one suitable for the long leg people). First hour we were driving on a flat valley with a hazy view of Mt Ararat and Little Ararat on the right. Then we started to climb the mountains. Road is bumpy. My backbone was very poor.... Up and down, zig-zags, bends.... Up from the town of Goris (once I was here coming from Iran) the road became better and we reached the border post of Karabakh at the bottom of the valley about 3 pm. No Armenian exit post, only Karabakh police in action. No problem with the visa. You fill the form on the spot, no photo is required and after 15 min you will get two documents with your name. You can go into this strange country. It is still more than 50 kms of bends climbing and descending to the capital city. Great green mountains around! After 6,5 hours on the road I saw down in the valley Stepanakert. Local lady from the bus was so kind to guide me to the Anush private rooms - a kind of primitive hostel, where I got a room for 4000 armenian drams (she requested 5000). They are Armenians, no wonder they use Armenian currency. Uffff.... I am very tired but happy to be in such a unusual place... Good night from montainous Karabakh!
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Sep 26, 2019 08:00 PM The capital of Armenia
Yerevan, sunny, 27 deg Celsius, hazy. Everybody speaks Russian. I cannot see any new skyscrapers like in Tbilisi, just grey blocks from soviet era. Revolution Square is now Republic Square with the same fountains. A group of the people stays here escorted by 2 policemen keeping EU flag and the poster "Armenia is Europe". Pretty black-hair ladies are walking the streets. A lot of shops and cafes with European names. Drivers are more polite than in Tbilisi. Gray opera building stays in the centre, no operas performed , just concerts. In the banks they pay 474 drams per USD.. A loaf of bread costs 200. A ride on the city bus - 100.
I was feeling absolutely safe an the streets.
It is worth to climb the stairs of the Cascade - the complex od modern art for the view of the city. I stay in tbe ,little hostel close to the Armenian cathedral - it is new construction. To see old monuments You must go out of the capital...
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Sep 25, 2019 08:00 PM Tbilisi to Yerevan, Armenia
To take the minibus to Yerevan you have to go to Ortachala bus station. Metro took me to Isani station for 0,5 lari then bus 101 to Ortachala, also 0,5 lari. Then I bought in the window ticket for 40 lari (passport is required) and... I was waiting more than an hour.
There is something like a timetable, but practically the bus departs when full - like in Africa...
It was one hour drive to the Armenia border. Then smooth formalities on the Georgian side. On Armenia side they check in their computer that I have been in Armenia 13 years ago and there is no evidence that I went out from Armenia. They took me away from the line. Stressing situation... How can I proof that I am not a camel? Finally they put the stamp and let me go....
I am in the different country. The road in the Armenia became dirty, bumpy but with the great views of the mountains. Old, junk soviet trucks still operate here. Our driver made a side trip to the small mountain village to have a drink of ayran :)
It was almost dark when after 6 hours we reached central bus station in Yerevan in Kilikia quarter. An hour later I was in my hostel. In Tbilisi money changers are on every corner - here I cannot see them at all! Tiring day, lets have a rest!
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Sep 24, 2019 08:00 PM Mtskheta - former capital of Georgia
OK, you can take the organized tour to Mtskheta paying 40 lari or 15 dollars, but the budget travellers always try to find the less expensive solution. I took the metro to Didube station (0,5 lari) then in the bazaar there I found the marshrutka minibus to Mtskheta for 1 lari. They dropped me on the highway. From there it is 3 kms climb by paved road to Jvari monastery. It is worth! The monastery itself is a holy place for Georgians. But the absolute hit of today is a view from the walls. Below you will see the conjunction of 3 rivers framed by the mountains. Wow! Even just married couples are coming herecto be photographed...
Mcheta village - the first capital is also visible with its main attraction - Sveti Cshoveli cathedral. The problem for the hiker is how to get there, because you ca pass 2 bridges and they are quite far from tge junction. I started to walk down in the strong sun, but after some 2 kms local people gave me the lift. The cathedral is huge and impressive with the tombs of the kings and their families. Locals believe that the cloth of Jesus Chist is burried here. Surrounded by thick walls Sveti Cshoveli looks likeca litte castle. Entry to both places is free!
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Sep 23, 2019 08:00 PM Tbilisi after 14 years...
It was lovely, sunny morning when I started my walk around central part of the city. I crossed the river and took the walk to the old town. Oh, la la! So many new, modern buildings in the landscape! And what an invensive car traffic! Do you like big, modern buildings staying just near the old ones? Today's Tbilisi has definitely too much car smoke. But it is still lovely city - in tha main streets I found many new, elegants shops. The back streets are sill gray and require restoration... Mother Georgia monument is still overlooking the city from the castle hill. It was refurbished in the meantime. Locals say that new version is more sexy. :) They built also funicular to the castle hill. On the Freedom Square golden Saint George shines on the pop of the column. The only and poor information office is here (one person in the kiosk) but he is very knowledgeable - ready to print for you the bus timetable for Yerevan. My favourite place in Tbilisi is the bridge near the river cliffs, with the little church and and the statue of the king. See the picture. From the bridge I was climhing to the enormous Transfiguration Cathedral - there is a nice view of the city from the terrace surrounding this church. After 7-hours city walk I returned to the hostel to write and to charge batteries.
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Sep 22, 2019 08:00 PM Parliament, but out of the capital...
Sunny morning. Eternal snows on the mountains are visible from my window. I took marshrutka (minibus) no.27 to the parliament building on the outskirts of the city. Former president of Georgia decided that new parliament will be build not is the capital city of Tbilisi but here - in Kutaisi. The building is very modern, but so far surrounded by the high grass. Emptiness around. In the same avenue there are also other official buildings. I was walking back to my homestay enjoying the scenes of the everyday life. Adult ladies still wear black clothes here...
In the afternoon I will take the train to Tbilisi.
Later: On the no,1 railway station I experienced a big disappointment: train no. 17 consists of only 2 junk wagons from the sioviet period. Visibility through the dirty window was almost zero. Slow trip took us 5 hours. We arrived to Tbilisi with 25 minutes delay.
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Sep 21, 2019 08:00 PM In Georgia again...
Sunny day! I live on the hill and the most importantchurch of Kutaisi is just around the corner. This imposing building fm 11th century is overlooking the city. It is Sunday and I was lucky to listen inside to the lovely Georgian chorals. Then I went down to stroll around the city center, where the fountain on the main square in the main attraction.
Why the people do not return the smiles? On the city map (you can get it tn the tourist office near the river bridge) they printed "Kutaisi - city of smile" On the back side of the drama theatre you will find hidden stop of the minibuses going every 3 hours to Gelati Monastery - 7 kms out of the town. I boarded thd one departing at 2 pm. Georgia changes - 14 years ago people were honest. Today the driver is charging 1 lari from the locals, but 2 lari from thd foreigners. But Gelati Monastery is great with excellent frescos inside the main church. I was lucky to be there during the baptising ceremony - very, very interesting! Then I went down to the valley by foot and walk onward on the railway to reach another - more cozy monastery - Motsameta. It is located on the sheer cliff above the river - nice, but much smaller place. Shared taxi took me back to Kutaisi just before the sunset. What a great day!
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Sep 20, 2019 08:00 PM Flight to Kutaisi
It was 3 hours 10 minutes flight from Gda?sk to Kutaisi, Georgia. Imagine that in the times of the low-cost ailines you can fly it for 40 euro minus the bonus money you have on your wizzair account. The wizz staff in Gdansk airport did not care about the size of my backpack. After more than 3 hours in the air we landed in Georgia. Uuuuu. Rain! They do not provide the bus, so we were running in the heavy from the plane to the terminal building... The formalities went very quickly and soon I ws already in tha hands of Natalya and her Georgian husband. They are very nice and hospitable people. We started to talk in English but once they recognised that I know well Russian we switched to that language. We were driving in the dark to the city. They run a little pension in the old town Kutaisi. Yes. you can have your private room here for 5 dollars. With tthe internet ! It was midnight local time when I went to the bed.
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Sep 19, 2019 08:00 PM Fifth voyage of 2019 :)
Tomorrow I am flying away again! The route of the fifth journey of 2019 leads to the other side of the Caucasus. I will land in Kutaisi, Georgia. After a few days of visiting those places where I have not been in Georgia yet I plan to cross the border of Armenia. I visited Armenia for the last time in 2006. I wonder if there were a lot has changed during this time? Also in Armenia there will be new, unknown places for me to see. On this occasion I would also like to visit Nagorno-Karabakh - de facto existing country with about 140,000 citizens, but not recognized by anyone for various reasons. It can be an interesting experience!
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