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Almaty, Kazakhstan's former capital, is not the prettiest city on earth, but it is dramatically located. The mountains immediately south of the city rise so high to the sky that many remain snowcapped with flowing glaciers the entire year. In the city, the only striking place is the Zenkov Cathedral. It remarkably survived earthquakes, time, and the Soviets. It is predominantly made of wood and painted in colours. The Big Almaty Lake, just 25 kilometres into the mountains, but about 2.5 hours drive uphills, is a little disappointing. It is not very big. And its banks have been filled with concrete. However the way up along the Big Almaty River is dramatic. The mountains rise and rise and the banks of the river are dotted with pale yurts, many of which are for rent or hide a cafe.
If weather is good, a day trip along the valley all the way up to the lake is a good treat. Stopping at the cafes and trying teas and kymyz (fermented horse milk) is great fun, too.
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