May 09, 2008 12:00 AMIsfahan - time to say good-bye
I so didn't want to leave Isfahan. I could spend all day around the Emam Square watching people, staring at the genius of the square's creation. The tearoom at the top of the bazaar was incomparable for location. It was so easy to talk to people. The students were so eager to talk to me. I was staying at a nice hotel in the centre in a suite. So, when the time came to get ready to transfer to Teheran for the last leg of the holiday, I could not get out of bed! My original plan was to leave on a 9 am bus. Eventually, I only checked out at 10:30 am. I was lucky to catch a bus for the capital that was to leave at 10:30 but was still there at 10:55 and I managed to hop on in a literally last second. It was definitely the least upkept Volvo coach I was on in Iran. Well, to be fair it was the oldest and the other two were Scania. Anyway, it was still good and the driver kept the speed at the maximum foreseen by the factory. The speedometer was happily resting at the 120 km/h mark. I was the only tourist on the coach so I received a lot attention from both the driver and the onboard personnel (one guy, who seemed to be mentally disadvantaged).
For some strange reason the coach stopped 2km from Qom for about 30 minutes. I didn't enjoy that break. I'd always prefer to get to my destination as soon as possible, so I have time at the destination for visiting, exploring, etc.
Polish composer Preissner's music was used often on the radio commercials, particularly the music he'd written for the film trilogy 'Three Colours. Blue. White. Red' by the Polish director Kieslowski. The piece that was used for the Ode to Europe in the Blue film was most popular. That was an interesting ride indeed.
May 08, 2008 12:00 AMIsfahan - losing its charm?
After calling 15 hotels and visiting three, none of which would give me a room, I became concerned that I would have to leave the city on an overnight train to Teheran. That was not easy either. That night even the train was full! What does one do in situation like that? Well, with my luck (sic!) I got this suite for €60 per night.
Traffic, traffic, traffic! Wow! Such a nice, it seemed, city and experience of it so badly ruined by the traffic. It most definitely reminded me of the road conditions in Vietnam. If a pedestrian decided to stand at a pedestrian crossing and wait for cars to stop and let them cross, one would stand there for days and eventually die of hunger or, with a bit of luck, of sunstroke and extreme dehydration. The trick was of course to just enter the flow of traffic and keep crossing. The drivers would get annoyed with that honking viciously but not more annoyed that the pedestrians who have to resort to risking their lives just to cross to the other side of the street in the time of peace. The pedestrians had no pedestrian zones anywhere in Isfahan. The pavements, squares and even bazaars were infested with speeding motorbikes and racing bicycles. What kind of game was that? 'Chase a pedestrian until turd comes out"?
When I finally got to the Emam Square in one piece, I met two guys who wanted to speak English and one who wanted to practice his German. I quickly got tired of German as mine is not that great, but he quickly found a native Bavarian, so I did not have to oblige anymore. The other two lads were funny enough to keep me amused until 9 pm. By that time another chap joined the conversation. His name was Ibrahim and his English was slightly less smooth than the other two, but he was the only one who was keen to take me out, while the others claimed it was bed time. Ibrahim had a motorbike and that was excellent. He could show me many places, particularly some of the magnificent bridges.
At the Si-o-se Pol Bridge was this very popular tearoom. It was very busy well past 11 pm. So much for bed time... Ibrahim wanted to show me more the next day, so we made an appointment at 8 am. He had to take me through back alleys as he did not have a helmet and for some reason, the police decided to take their job very seriously that morning.
I found the Armenian Quarter very interesting. The cathedral was not huge but was utterly interesting for its painted walls inside. One of the walls, above the entrance (or perhaps intended for worshippers exiting the temple) depicted three layers of life - the Earth, Heaven and Hell. Some scenes were very dramatic. I liked the Death playing with its weapon in the right end of the Earth layer. I have to admit that Heaven was not portrayed very flatteringly. It showed souls sitting on clouds in a terribly well organised manner. It did not look like anyone was having fun there.
May 07, 2008 12:00 AMYazd - friends everywhere
People of Yazd were very friendly often saying hello to me on the streets. The ladies were also flirty. Iranian law requires them to wear headscarves (hejab) they do not need to cover their faces. Actually most of them do not. Some wear black chadors but increasingly more of them dress in a less conservative way and wear colourful headscarves. This way it was easy for them to chat me up. Some were very funny. When I was walking in the old town with my guide, he was teasing me - "do they lurk at me or you, my friend?". I always replied that it was him. Two of them made an attempt to invite us for tea.
I was lucky in Yazd to experience a mighty thunderstorm with multiple dramatic lightning. Locals told me that rain and storms did not happen often in the region. It only rained for a short while but the lightning and the growls of thunder lingered for a few hours. The sky was dark grey, so some of my pictures came out dramatic rather than postcard pretty.
Apart from the wind towers Yazd's main attraction was Jameh Mosque. Its supertall portal decorated with countless tiles of different shades of blue and green and two minarets rising immediately from its top could hardly fit in the frame of a regular camera. The mosque's dome was additionally decorated with orange tiles. While the portal had some floral elements of decoration, the dome had only geometric figures.
The old town was hiding many smaller and older mosques, some of which were cosy and almost intimate. There was also an interesting Yazd Water Museum (free entry) explaining the extensive system of underground water channels cslled qanat created to supply water to the town and crop fields in the area.
I also liked the alleged Alexander's Prison complex including the oldest temple in Yazd. The prison had a superb underground cafe with a central fountain under the circular skylight.
But one of the greatest sights were the Tower of Salience, remains of the Zorastrian tradition of 'burying' the deceased. Two large circular but not tall towers on the top of two hills (one per hill) were used to display the bodies to be consumed by voltures. Putting bodies in the ground would contaminate the earth otherwise. The towers were out of town slightly, and there was no public transport. A taxi hired for an hour set me back by 18,000 rials.
I went to visit Afghani refugees. It was the family of my guide, Samin, who also worked at the Orient, the Oasis and the Silk Route hotels. The family was rather shy. Samin's brothers, 18 and 12, never said a word to me, but I knew they did not speak any English. The family has lived in Yazd for a number of years. Their compound was in the heart of the old town. I saw three rooms. The first one was like a hall, where the shoes were being kept. The second one, of the same size, was a living room, where the only piece of furniture was a small tv set, a carpet and a few cushions. The third room was the kitchen. I am not sure where the family slept. I know that Samin was sleeping at one of the hotels, where he often worked as a night porter. The compound had also a small yards, where Samin kept his huge Afghani chickens. They were huge!
May 06, 2008 12:00 AMNaqsh-e Rostam and Rajab; Persian Royal Tombs
From Persepolis I went to see royal tombs. The first one was Naqsh-e Rajab, which boasted fantastic reliefs, three of which of considerable size. The tomb looked like an entry to a grotto or a cave. I spent 2,000 rials on the ticket and about ten minutes admiring the carvings.
The second, and last, stop was at the amazing Naqsh-e Rostam. The site comprised of four magnificently rock hewn tombs high in the cliff, decorated with reliefs. One of them was the tomb of Darius I the Great. The tombs were hewn in the form of regular massive crosses.
The site was completed by an intriguing tower, which although made of stone, looked like a wooden structure. A stunning place. And it is visible for a few kilometres. The tombs looked spectacular from the distance. And they lost nothing in their awesomeness when viewed from up close.
May 05, 2008 12:00 AMPersepolis - what a gem!
Persepolis once was [supposedly] the capital of the most powerful empire on the globe. Its beauty was only rivalled by Babylon at that time, perhaps. I say supposedly, since to this day, historians have not agreed a common position regarding Persepolis’s status as a capital. It was expanded by Darius I the Great, the same responsible for the Battle of Marathonbut then Persia was the Achaemenid Empire, whose capital was Ecbatana (now modern town of Hamedan), apparently. Although it cannot be ruled out that Persia had more than one capital during the time of Darius I the Great. Now, it is just a splendid collection of ruined columns, piazzas, arches and remains of grand palaces.
Only 55km from Shiraz there it is - one of the greatest ancient sites on Earth. Had the grand leader Darius I the Great, who started building it or expanding it, lived long enough to complete its creation, Persepolis would most definitely become the capital of the Persian Empire. Or perhaps if Alexander the Great had not attacked the Persians, then again it might have been the capital, too and even more would have remained to this day.
Persepolis seriously impressed me! The carvings on the walls of this city, many of which survived in remarkable condition, must have made it mind-boggling place. Records suggest that the carvings were painted in vivid colours. Wow!
My jaw dropped when I saw the single colour winged warriors, saddled horses, raging lions and countless delegates from neighbouring kingdoms. I could not imagine how spectacular the halls and courtyards looked painted. One of the massive reliefs from the treasury was one of the most fascinating things I have ever seen.
I arrived at 7:45 am, so I had the site virtually for myself. Only at about 9:30 am hordes of tourists began swarming in. For two hours I kept wandering in amazement. And snapping frenzily. I went almost twice around the entire city. The site was well organised and carefully watched. Relatively clean toilets were available in both the visitor centre and just beside the ancient treasury hall. A museum, teahouse, cafeteria, snack shop, gift shops, and even Iranian fastfood outlet complemented the facilities. The key monuments were described in both Persian and English and the city was signposted. Parts of Persepolis received wooden walkways otherwise one had to walk on a very uncomfortable gravel floor.
I loved the shy morning sun somewhat sheepishly peaking from behind a thin layer of white cloud. It illuminated some of the fabulous reliefs and carvings wonderfully and gently. That was perfect for my picture taking. I was proud of myself of selecting the morning for the escapade.
A few sections of the site were closed for some reason, which was a little disappointing but still the general access allowed close inspection of the individual elemnts of the city and its decorations.
I was also impressed with the admission charge - 5,000 rials (£0.27)!
May 04, 2008 12:00 AMShiraz - where has all the wine gone?
At the domestic airport Twrminal 2 from which Iran Air operated they told me that the flights to Shiraz and Isfahan were full. I was directed to Terminal 4 (I needed to take a taxi for 20k) from which other domestic airlines flew. I asked at the Information desk about the flights and they kindly advised me that I could try Iran Aseman Airlines. Their flight was leaving within 45 minutes. With great luck I found their unsigned ticket office and a very chaotic group of people hoping to get their names read out from the waiting list. I added my name and another piece of luck, I was on the aircraft within 20 minutes. Lucky me!
It was a small Fokker 100 jet. The seats were allocated predominantly according to gender. The safety demonstration was not shocking but normal like on any other airline I had travelled. Announcements were made in both Farsi and English, and continental breakfast was served.
For the wine enthusiasts, Shiraz would denote the place where certain grape variety emerged. Although no longer cultivated there, the name is unmistakable. Shiraz appeared big and busy to me. I thought that perhaps Teheran had problems with its air, but so had Shiraz. Definitely. The fumes combined with dust and dryness of the air were violating my nose so terribly that I eventually started to bleed. Motorcycles riding on pavement were my other headache. Not only was crossing a street a mission impossible, but the speeding motorbikes between pedestrians in their theoretically safe zone caused additional stress.
I bet Shiraz looked diametrically different from the times when it had been the capital of Persia under the Zand dynasty in the second half of the 18th century. Or when it was a centre of Persian Renaissance in the 13th and 14th centuries, during which cultured rulers allowed for arts to blossom, including poetry mastered by Hafez, Iran's most important poet. Sanctuary in his name in Shiraz's Melli Park is like a pilgrimage spot, particularly for the young at heart.
The intriguing fortress, Arg-e Karim Khani, right in the heart of the city was my favourite spot. It was the residence of Karimkhan Zand and its government. From the outside it looked like castle or citadel but inside it was a park with ponds full of coins. Small trees planted there provided shade and a perfect escape from a frantic traffic outside. Although the Arg was located by a very pleasant pedestrianised section of the main street (as traffic continued underground) complete with small fountains and carefully cultivated greenery.
May 03, 2008 12:00 AMIran - tourist visa on arrival at IKA
Perhaps it depends on the immigration officer's mood but the visa on arrival for some 22 nationals (excl. US, UK, OZ) was being granted for two weeks, as in accordance with the Ministry of Internal Affairs. Reportedly, visa on arrival used to be given for a week. I got 15 days and I heard from Norwegians that even 30 days could be given. It also came to my attention that certain nationals may be granted one week still.
Had I known that would be the case, I would have planned for 2 weeks travelling in Iran. I could not change my flight and I made commitments at work, so had to be going back to London as planned.
May 01, 2008 12:00 AMPartying in Puerto Banus
Actually, known as Puerto de Jose Banus, this little holiday resort offers interesting mix of night entertainment. Right down by the marina mooring extremely expensive yachts the little street is lined up with designer shops, like Bvlgari, etc and funky lounges perfect for chilling and watching your yacht. It is only about 50 yards from the seediest and sleaziest street on the Costa del Sol, full of terrible clubs, strip joints, meat markets, near-brothers and working girls.
And I was going out there every night between 27 April and 2 May. I tried a few safe clubs on the naughty street, such as Mambo and Linekers, but both were full of English-only speaking stags and hens. The music was only this one that can be encountered in Liverpool, Manchester, Rochester... Really disappointing. Most of these were closing at 3:30 am or 4:00 am. The only club on that street that was opening at 3:00 am and closing at 6:00 or 7:00 was Scream. It was not bad, but very crowded.
My favourite lounge at the posh end was Stereo Lounge. It was less pretentious and the friendly staff was great with their free shots of Jeagermeister (not sure of spelling), which I do not like, unfortunately. The entertainment manager, Ellis, worked wonders to attract a good mix crowd into the venue. It was super.
The posh and expensive club, Dreamers, a bit away from the marina was very trendy and classy, but almost everyone smoked and the poor ventilation was ineffective, so I only managed to stay for an hour. JD & Coke was €22, by the way...
Apr 30, 2008 12:00 AMEstepona - white & blue
I thought that Estepona was going to be a big party place for all the holiday makers. It was not. Although there are a number of posh hotels (I stayed at the Grand Hotel Elba) along the coast, some of them complete with full size golf courses, the beach resort is ... less attractive than some other ones in the vicinity. The beach is not great and the quality of restaurants / price is not below average in Andalusia. Oh, well. It was not that bad at all, there were a few (few?) bars and petite restaurants in the white & blue port, which probably did the trick for the visitors. Otherwise, I think the posh hotels organise something on their premises.
However, unlike a few other resorts between Algeciras and Malaga, Estepona had a larger population of Spaniards against the raging Britons on hen and stag nights...
Apr 28, 2008 12:00 AMAVE - superfast trains of Spain
I quite liked the high speed trains (AVE) of Spain. I like to transfer between A and B as quickly as possible. The speed then worked for me well. The trains were modern and they put on films on small monitors in the carriages. The personnel handed out free headphones - small ones like for the personal stereos or MP3 players. I was chuffed that from Malaga to Cordoba it was just 45 minutes for about 38 euro. It was also about 45 minutes from Cordoba to Seville for about 30 euro. I can travel like that! Fast. Of course there was little to see on the way, but then again it gave more time to see the cities. Anyway, I thought it was a reasonable value, too. I decided to post this little note for you, and show you the trains. The picture was taken on the station in Seville.
