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Cerbere is one of those quintessential mediterranean villages; a small strip of tall hotels and appartment blocks tucked somewhat incongruously into a sandy cove between largish terraced hills along a rugged coastline. It is also a major railway transit centre for Spaniards moving north - the end of the line for the Spanish rail services, whereafter passengers must switch to French trains. But the greatest appeal is the simplicity and raw appeal of a Mediterranean enjoyed overwhelmingly by locals and a small volley of knowing cityfolk who descend here for the summer holidays. The same is true of Port Bou, just across the Spanish border (7 km by road), and remarkably a mirror image of Cerbere geographically.
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There are several places (that require walking up the hills) along the coast which afford fantastic views of a more rugged Mediterranean coast that most people are familiar with. The rock is dark, the grassed hills washed out in brilliant sunshine nearly year-round, and the sea ever changing from aqua to black..and the whole area has very raw and harsh appeal.
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That we arrived in January, and upon asking a queue of people in the small supermarket where we might find accommodation, were cheerfully (but a touch bemusedly) told that there was none. Every hotel had closed for the winter and wouldn't open again for 4 months or so.
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The singularly uninhabited collection of brightly painted and otherwise serious-looking border control buildings on the road into Spain.
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If you're desperate, there are some rooms available at the railway station - overpriced I felt, but sufficient. Better still, take a swag. That's sure to properly get you acquainted with some interesting people.
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Published on Sunday January 26th, 2003
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9 votes
