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Nerja is a cute Andalucian town of (I think) about 15000 people, wedged on the limestone cliffs between the foothils of the Sierra Nevada and the Mediterranean Sea. It is beautiful, but the fun stops there. Like so many Andalcian towns it has been irretrievably polluted by mass introduction of uncaring and culturally blind turistas. There's a language school there (my motivation for going) but I believe that if you're after Spanish language tuition there are better ones. The International House school in Sevilla would be a good start.
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| Favourite spots: |
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The Balcon d'Europa. This garishly designed viewing platform extends from the cliffs out over the water. On a crystal clear morning when you've been dancing hard all night, have failed yet again to pick up, and have resigned youself to the fact that now 6 am there's little hope of sleeping, it's a great place to sit and contemplate your hangover...and maybe your priorities.
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| What's really great: |
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That the guy singing in the Bar Molina managed to pull out exactly the same 6 tunes in a different order every night. That said, the hosts are lovely cheerful and understanding of halting Spanish. Get up and have a dance, it'll be the most life the joint has seen in years.
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| Sights: |
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Always plenty to see along the snug little coves that dot the coastline.
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| Accommodations: |
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I spent my time billeted with a family, so I can't comment.
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| Nightlife: |
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There's a pedestrian mall called Tutti Frutti that is lined on both sides with largely indistinguishable bars that play bad I-could-be-anywhere dance trash most nights of the week. Get there about 10pm for a thoroughly disappointing time. Arrive about 2am and you're more likely to enjoy yourself. Be sure to drink copious amounts of alcohol or you'll see it for what it really is.
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| Hangouts: |
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You won't struggle to find anything from genuine Irish pubs (complete with Irish staff) through to little hole-in-the-wall watering and feeding spots for locals. Los Cunaos is a favourite with students of the Escuela de Idiomas.
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| Restaurants: |
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There are heaps of overpriced ones targetting the omnipresent turistas, in particular avoid the Mexican ones...but there's a fantastic Argentine place up the road a few kilometres toward the caves (las Cuevas), and there are some good humble pizzerias and fresh seafood places down the bottom of the hill close to the centre of town. If you're eating before heading out for a dance, you might want to order a 'carajillo' before you leave the restaurant. This is an espresso with a shot of brandy, and it goes down very nicely indeed.
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| Other recommendations: |
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If you're lucky, you might score a game of beach volleyball at the courts set up on the main beach east of town.
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Published on Sunday January 26th, 2003
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